Ecomatt

Petrol do see an increase in power but it also has a tendancy to shift the power higher up the rev range. I found when I fitted one to my petro VRS I lost a lot of low down torque. So I switched back to the std airbox and found my car was a quicker on the road car, so left it on and sold the intake. The intake on the mqb chassis cars is very good as standard. Just by fitting a new turbo intake pipe and adding the blanking plate they were only just short on maximum airflow compared to the aftermarket intake kits.

Hold the power button down until it restarts to do a soft reset and see if that works. If not I would do a factory reset.

I would take it back to the garage as clearly something has not been fitted or coded correctly. I would also stop using the power as it might cause more harm than good. It might be they havent coded the injectors in correctly or anything like that but I would let the garage take a look and see if any fault codes have appeared.

The standard set up is good for over 300bhp with the std filter in place. There some improvements you can make by removing the snow grate from inside the filter box. Also fit a blanking plate to the inlet to allow extra air into the airbox. You can also fit larger boost pipes from Darkside performance that give 5bhp and allow the engine to breathe easier. As for performance airfilters. They don't work I'm afraid but there are plenty of topics on that on here.

AGM is coded as fleece. The binary AGM is totally different kind of battery .

A lot depends on the map itself. If it is asking for a lot of low down torque that is a killer of clutches hence the slip. Also being in too high a gear and putting your foot down can cause clutch slip. Best to change down a gear and then put foot down as it easier on the clutch. You may find the uprated clutch is heavier than the std one but should still be fine as a daily drive.

The issue isnt that your sts clutch is worn. The issue is that the remap is making too much torque for it to handle. If you went back to a std map the car would drive fine. Glad you are getting it sorted. This is one of the reasons I dont modify cars anymore. One cost leads on to another and so on.

Have you checked the relay?

Id take it back to the garage where you got it from and let them take a look.

I turn the start stop off if I know I am going to want a quick start such as at mini roundabouts etc. Normally I just plan ahead and start the engine earlier in preparation of moving off. Never really bothered me my method as it only takes a bout a second to do all that. I dont sit on the foot brake at lights, I apply the handbrake so the car has to go into neutral anyway.

You have a full history of what the car has. Yes the intervals have been stretched out but only very slightly. It has been taken care of and the mileage wouldn't put me off. The only thing to check is the dpf levels.

To me that sounds like a slipping auxillary belt. If it was a tensioner or adjuster it would make the noise all the time. Having had one when I changed my own timing belt a few years ago. The auxillary belt should be on a self adjuster and I would ask the garage to check the tension of the belt, as it might not be tensioned enough. Equally for the cost of the aux belt it might be worth having a new one one fitted.

With my start stop, if I am at the lights for a long time I put my DSG into neutral. Then when the lights are about to change I tap the accelerator which starts the engine, apply the foot brake and put it into gear. That ensures a nice smooth start up rather than lifting of the foot brake, engine starting and also trying to go into gear aswell. That way gives the engine chance to start without the clutch engaging too soon. The issue with the above cars might need a dsg adaption doing as the biting point might be too severe causing the engine to stall.

My thoughts are not too worry and get it booked into Skoda to sort out.

I would speak to Darkside Developments as they will be able to advise you of what is needed. In the long run it might be cheaper just to swap to an Octy VRS and remap it.

Chances are it might have been moisture on the auxillary belt, which can make a noise when it slips. If the timing belt is fine and all the timing is still working then you will be fine. The tsb relates to some of the tensioners and adjusters making noise. One of the solutions is to spray lubricant onto the tensioners and adjusters to quieten then down. VAG are always changing parts and revisions of parts so I wouldnt be unduly worried.

It would be cheaper to just buy a car with it fitted. There will be the cost of the control units to be upgraded etc. Then the cost of the dcc system itself. You will get a similar result if you can get Koni FSD for your car. Had them on my Fabia VRS alomg with eibach springs. Very comfortable for day to day driving. Plus firm up when needed on cornering or braking heavy to limit wieght transfer.

Also TPS parts

Between the Michelin and Goodyear performance wise there isnt a deal of difference. I used to run Michelin but switched to Goodyear about 5 years ago when my Focus ST came with the Asy 2 F1. Loved them and have had the 3s and now 5s. Mine is the diesel VRS and the Goodyears have done about 14,000 on the front and have 5mm left on them. I find Michelin are just on the expensive side nowadays.

Sounds like you have been unlucky. However you might still be within the 6 month window for the Consumer Rights Act. Speak to the garage and despite what they say they are liable to cover the car for 6 months against faults. The auxiliary belt might have been failing for a while. Worth a phone call and dont be afraid to qoute the CRA 2015 as it gives you protection. Even so the car has to be fit for purpose for 6 months as it is the law. Wear and tear like tyres, brakes isnt covered but your engine will be.

Someone might have used vcds or obdeleven before you purchased the car to deactivate it. It might be worth doing a headlight realign procedure. Did mine and it raised them slightly higher than before.

Do you mean 'Ultra High Performance ditch finders' 🤔

I use Goodyear Asy 5. Never had an issue with them. Make sure you have the alignment done regularly. My rears have scrubbed down as clearly hit a pot hole(s) and knocked it out. Only checked the tread a month agonand all was good. The rear has now worn down to below the 1.6mm mark on the inside. Gutted as tyre has only been on the rear for a year. Fronts have been on the same time and down to 5mm wearing evenly. New rear tyres later today...again 😞

It can as it stops the caliper sliding shut and open properly. This is something I have always done every year as part of a brake service. Also have you had the brake fluid changed recently? It should be done after 3 years then every 2 years after.

Did they grease the sliding pins on the caliper?