Murdockman

This issue throws up beause the immobiliser in the ECU cannot read the key's code so throws up a problem causing non starting and dash warning, the car does start because you have ingnition and a swift cranking turnover straight away and this confuses the ECU that's why it will run, ECU might throw a wobble one day and shut down the system not allowing any thing to work-- fuel pump etc or put the car into limp home mode the only way around this is to either keep the old internal circuit handy from the old key fob or keep it on a keyring when starting and driving keeping it near the colom where key normally goes to let it start first time as ECU then thinks you have the key code like original and everything is fine, this happened with a friends car that had his ingition lock changed with the key supplied from a breakers yard for that lock but wasn't a big issue as we changed the key part into the old fob justworked fine for him in the end but still had to keep the old key handy to use as a mannual lock for doors if needed

Previous post is spot on looks like a combination of a really badly fitted door as it's both dropped and out of line could even be a trplacement door off another car hinges need adjudting so door reaches the top of the door opening top frame also needs adjusting you could wind window down and try pushing the frame back into position but better to slacken torx bolts adjust the frame correctly and retighten bots found out myself better not to slacken bolts to much as frame if to loose will spring out and not hold if screws are to loose it's a combination of pushing and see if it stays moved beforetightening bolts right up Water in boot well is possibly the vents as shown had this issue on a mates mk2 estate and it was indeed incorrect fitted seals around the rubber flaps after a rear shunt garage did not know what they were doing and removed them but did not fit them back correctly hence water leaking in the boot, the only other water issue was a damaged seal gasket under the light fitting (well actually no gasket)

On the MK2 the vents are located underneath the rear lights but behind the bumper, they are clipped into the bodywork of the car and have rubber flaps on the outside but are sealed by a rubber type seal, normally they do not throw out a problem but usually after the car has had a rear shunt and been repaired by a garage that does not take care to put things back tidy, to get it sorted the lights have to bee both removed and also the rear bumper you can then see the rubber flaps both sides and check which one or both that are not fitted properly or are damaged or broken, good luck with this trying to get dealers to sort it out my mate gave up with the garage in the end as they had the car 6 times we told them what was wrong but they insisted it wasn't that and we did the job ourselves no parts needed just refitted +everything correctly with a little help of some clear sealer non solvent, some said it was the rear light seal but this was dry underneath the lights it was coming in further down the side which is where these flaps/seals are, some also said just drill a hole in the bottom of the wheel well !!

Not worth the bother by the time you faf about trying to find the broken part and perhaps replace it another bit will fail so you'll have to start again just by a replacement sensor from the bay job done

Sorry posted on thr e other question just noticed this with photo's looks like the window isn't going right up to the seal or the seal is broken up inside the cup part of the seal try silicone sray NOT WD 40 as it will swell the rubber seals replacing this seal is a a lot of work as it's atteched down in the door frame and i think it's a whole frame part not just a rubber seal but might be wrong

A common fault on most MK2's was the inner seal around the winow winder mech my nearly new MK2 had this issue, door panel was removed and resealed around the inner metal cover that covers the window winder assembly and as with most cars the water runs down the inside of the door and out through the bottom of the door, if the inner seal is broken water can get inside, might be worth also checking the drain holes in the botom of the door looks like 2 bumps in the seam along the door bottom clean these out with a small thin screwdriver as they sometimes fill with rust and crudd and stop the water coming out which then leaks inside car, rubber strip across door by the window glass can also get hard and some times need to be replaced, again door card has to be removed to do this also

Not difficult the door mirror panel coner cover comes off but use a plastic prise tool not metal then loosen the 3 torx bolts but do not remove them, the door card has to come off as with mine i could not get at the multi plug to realease it that part takes the most time really don't forget the switch for the window motor as card needs to come off so far before you can unplug the harness to it, putting, loosly mount mirror and check everything works ok before refitting card make sure outside temp is working as this is located in this mirror on r/hand drive cars putting card back is reverse but agian don't forget the wiring harness before clipping card back to the door

If you have a separate main beam bulb then it could be a faulty bulb fitting causing this, try swapping from the other side and see if it's the same, rather strange as most MK2 fabia's have the single H7 bulb with the flap for dipped and main light, I have heard of this once before and 2 issues were thrown up 1st one was the owner had used an aftermarket LED bulb which had got to hot and warped/slightly melted the fitting in the holderarea and 2nd issue the headlight casing had been removed due to an accident and metal work was not correctly put back and the dipped beam was adjusted to sut the out of line issue but you cannot adjust the main beam setting

Basically the 2 options would be 1 set of pads with wear sensor cable and 1 set without this cable looking at photo you calipers look like the Teves option as i know they fitted some Lucas type on certain models, Horton Skoda sometimes have good deals on pads but check first as genuine pads can cost around £60 plus but I've used Textar pads (around £25-£30 a set been using them for quite a few years and they are good value and last pretty good, some makes as previous post suggets are rubbish and bad quality

A common issue when not using the windows for a while the felt/rubber guides dry out and causes the window to struggle to go up and down this can be made easier by using a good quality silcone spray grease in the guides but DO NOT USE WD 40 it expands the rubber and will make it worse Some times the door harness to the car plug connection gets a bit corroded and if not earthed correctly will play up windows etc, after leaving our MK2 for a few months water had caused the connections to furr up a bit, had to remove door stay open door right up remove rubber cover over connectin and then unclip the plug remone plug give it a good clean some petrol jelly on connections and replug and clip back in refit door stay and windows central locking and door panel lights all stated working again ok

A good friend of minehad this issue and it turned out to 2 items 1 battery positive was very loose, 2 the earth from the battery was also loose near the battery tray and earth on the gearbox was completly off (bolt missing) everything re-tightened new bolt in gearbox and battery charged up with a charger so far no moremore issues , I have also come across a loose earth near the right hand side of the dash that holds the dashboard to the metal of the car you can get at this by removing right end panel and checking tightness of the bolts, Ithink they were 12mm heads

On our old MK2 the rubber around wiper arm was gone alowing water into rear of hatch and then running down onto the catch, simular issues to what you have mentioned, landed up buying a new latch from dealers around £35 and £6. odd for new rubber ring seal also noticed that earth was through the retaining screws so ran another eart wire from catch to a bolt on the inside of the hatch cured our issue don't know if this will help you

Here lies the issue should be 30mm but mine was 32mm i have heard that it could be 31mm or even 36mm depends where car was made I landed up buying a VAG us pro set for £20 and mine was 32nn on the rear wanted to change both hubs due to bearing noise

Just a query bought our Fabia MK3 estate 1.0 TSI SE in 2019 just over 2 months old ,sat nav had an SD card installed and only used it a few times as we know most places where we travel to, but worked fine telling you 2nd exit third exit etc at the correct lane/road that you required, the car went in for a 2nd year service in August this year at a SKODA dealership, we have not used the navigation until the other day but have now noticed that when approaching a roundabout the sat nav tells you to take the third exit instead of the second one as the previous ne did it's like it's counting every lane at the junction and when there's an exit and entrance lane (small island in the middle) and a double exit straight on road it tells you to take the forth exit not a problem around roads you know but confusing if travelling some where you don't, know very well, contacted the dealership and they just said they are all ;like this but it wasn't like this before taking it in for a service just wanted to check are other Fabia's doing this with the sat nav system or did they updated system and now it's an "improved system" NOT

Sorry can't post pictures as car was written off last year but i fitted 2 rear light cluster fittings from a VW Passat they were the rocker panel type centre for normal down for on all the time and up for off, you could use a universal single light in the centre at the rear i have now seen ones like the sort that's fitted on my MK3 for sale in after market sites with led bulbs already fitted but are a bit expensive, the pair i purchased for our MK2 came from a breakers and cost £20 for the pair fitting them at the rear at the sides above rear doors i just removed front light and run connections for both rear lights and just pulled down lining at the rear doors to access the cables and hooked the wires with a straightened coat hanger to each side (removed light fuse first) the most tricky part was cutting the head lining to fit the light but finished off ok as had the chrome surround clip supplied with lamps so hid the cut out holes at the edges (used a dremel to cut lining) the beauty of two lights when transporting little man you can use light to see what you are doing seat belt etc but able to shut one side off and still have light in the rear from the other light

Will be covered under warranty for the parts as these plugs have a 12 month warranty, they can however charge you again for labour but most decent garages will carry out the work free of charge to keep customers happy, a good idea would have been to take photos of the original glow plugs in situ before taking the car in and then after job was done to check they had been changed before leaving garage as it has been known to be charged and parts not replaced Just a note for you a friend had a starting problem from cold, all parts replaced filters glow plugs relays etc after many garage bills had a look at the car for him and out of a problem i had a few years ago i checked the valve clearance.... no gaps at all, it happens like this sometimes as the valves wear into the head and close the shim gap up not giving the engine full compression when starting from cold, did a total re-shim and brought gaps back to specs and car started from cold every time

One of the biggest issues with this problem seems to start from the door to car connection in the pillar area, sometimes the pins inside of the VW plugs get corrosion on them or get slightly pushed back into the socket part of the connection causing bad earth's and so forth, to get at them to give them a good look at and clean you need to remove the door stay so the door will open up much further than normal but remember to support each side of the door with say 2 plastic bins covered with cloth to stop the door going to wide or slamming on your fingers or get a helping hand from someone to hold the door in this position for you also you need to release the rubber cover over the plug and remember to also release the black clip that locks the two connections together then they will then unplug A VW spade connector tool might be handy to use as with my door plug just one of the wires were corroded and we had window opening issues for many months garage could not find it but did it myself as got fed up with them telling me nothing was showing up and its working ok when we tried it oh and when i put it back together i used a silicone waterproof grease on the connections and hey presto no more issues and both windows and switch lights worked from drivers door again

Few things to check first, the connections going to the starter , you need to disconnect the battery earth first before pulling any of the starter motor connections off, you can also check the earth to the body and to the gearbox earth too at the same time for corrosion or breaks and also check the spade connections for corrosion and tightness as this can also cause this issue, if all look good after cleaning it is possible that the solenoid on the starter is faulty or sticking, you could find this out by trying next time it fails to turn over tap the top of the starter with a wooden stick quite hard and then try to start the car, if starter turns ok then the solenoid is faulty but normally the whole starter is replaced unless you feel brave enough to take starter off strip it down and clean and grease pivot and put the starter back together, you can test starter out of the car with jump leads and a decent battery before refitting to see if it's ok

like you we purchased a 2008 1.9 TDI in 2010 from father in laws estate we were still running the car until November 2019 until it was written off by a careless driver with no insurance, all we kept doing was oil and filter every year fuel and air filter every 2 years, give it a good blast at least once a week to keep the turbo soot free no rust issues and the only other issue was the control arm bushes but on advice from a good mate replaced them with Seat Cupra solid bushes and they lasted from 2011 until car was trashed, battery lasted 8 years and we were still on the original exhaust, we averaged around 12000 every year, by the way the engine is still running in my mates car with now 135000 on the motor so look after the car and it will look after you

The correct tool looks like a large pair of tweezers with 2 little clips on the inside that clip over the cap then you pull the cap off, I did find that for the first time mine would not budge, so i used a pair of long nosed pliers and wrapped some masking tape around the prongs I found that I could get a good grip on the cap and wiggle it off, i then used a small amount of silicon grease on the inside of the cap when re-fitting them

Ah you seem to run into the Fabia hocus pocus on pumps, my good friend was on a third pump that was also leaking we finally sorted it out by making sure that the correct pump with the correct impeller was fitted as this makes a difference with different models, also you need to re fill system with the correct VW anti-freeze around £50 a shot, and you need to replace the tensioner pully at the same time, did this on his MK2 1.9 TDI and so far the pump has lasted 2 years and no leaks, belt and tensioner and pump were purchased from Skoda Parts. they are based in Europe so not sure now if you can get a decent price due too customs etc

99 times out of 100 it's the return pipes that swell a little and this usually causes this oil mist, , they generally look ok but because of the braid they leak under this and some times need to be replaced

Sounds like some one has blocked off the EGR value at some point and the noise is the flap trying to shut after motor is turned off, you could check the rubber pipe going to the value it might have broken and this will also cause this sort of sound when you shut the engine off

The work involved just to get some grease in the bearing is not worth the trouble as the bearing will fail anyway, if doing it yourself you will need a puller set for this car around £50, I purchased a decent set of front bearings from Autodoc they did cost £120 for the pair with delivery and lasted 3 years plus until the car was written off , might be a bit more expensive now but don't buy cheaper Bay ones they will not last ok if selling car but not if you are keeping it, I also changed my drive shaft rubber boots at the same time

Fuel flap locks with central locking so a non locking cap is ok, on all MK III Fabia's they use the non locking type, i don't think you will get the same type key/lock as your car anyway