langers2k

Try holding the metal case while you touch the screen?

Erm, it most certainly does....

It depends if you want to stay road legal or not Fitting either LED or xenon/HID 'bulbs' in to halogen headlights should now be an MOT failure so I wouldn't advise it. You'll also cause plenty of glare given the reflector design of the original headlights. The alternative is fitting original xenon headlights, level sensors, wiring, AFS controller and headlight washers to match a factory install. The latter is obviously much more effort but the results will be better

Both of those figures are soot. - Calculated is a guesstimate at how much soot should be there based on fuel/engine use, last regen and a few other things - Measured is based from the pressure across the DPF It's not unusual for the two figures to be different but I've never seen them so different which is why I think it 'could' be a sensor that's failed. I think the oil ash value (not shown) is based on how much soot has been burnt off. The oil ash cannot be burnt off which is why it normally determines the lifespan of a DPF.

Although wheel sensors are common with ABS issues, I don't think it's the cause based on the codes above. From rosstech: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01542 Depending which ABS unit you have, G202 (yaw rate sensor) might be inside the ABS module or part of a separate unit, possibly under the drivers seat? You need to figure out which so you can physically check it before deciding what's next

I'd be wary that those figures are so different... Makes me wonder if a sensor has gone bad?

Does the brake light continue to illuminate with the handbrake/autohold on and the DSG taken out of drive - if so, I agree that's a design oversight. I see plenty of cars creeping forwards with brake lights illuminated so I can only imagine it's a DSG/auto and the driver is sitting with the footbrake on rather than properly securing with the handbrake etc :/

Which is exactly what I said in the second line of that post even with my misquote/misread from the highway code The point is, It's not how various posters are using their brake lights. At least from my understand of their posts, some people are keeping the brake lights lit even when there are vehicles stopped/stationary behind them...?

Whilst I appreciate the highway code isn't law, it does cover sitting in stationary traffic with your brake lights on: Brake lights are to show you're slowing down, not that you're stationary, once you're stopped they are no longer required so turn them off. As with all things, it's sensible in some circumstances to keep them on, the most obvious to my mind is when you're the the last car in a line of traffic. Keeping the brake lights on until a car or two has stopped behind you is acceptable (in my opinion) but after that, it's just not necessary... Even with a 2-3 meter gap between cars, brake lights, especially modern LED versions, will be causing unnecessary glare to the car behind.

Works for me... Reattached to this message if that helps :/ Cleaning the cruise.pdf

Is the OP in a LHD or RHD country as it'll be a different part...

A used headlight from eBay or a scrapyard/breakers is the best bet.

The plastic lens doesn't open. The headlights are sealed and the led is not user serviceable. If the led DRL has failed. You need a new headlight.... Check it's the led and not just the led driver/power supply that'll be screwed on to height somewhere.

Might help if you pointed out exactly which headunit you've bought Is it turning off when you remove the key? It sounds like it is but you're not convinced it's fully shutting down? I assume you've connected the black quadlock connector and the white am/fm fakra connectors directly? I.e. without any adaptors etc.

It won't have 'block 11' or any other block in the name - that's specific to the older measuring blocks for pre UDS ECU's. Just had a look at my CR140 and there a plenty of channels that mention actuator but I'm not sure which maps to the one you want. This thread may help: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/14475/ Assuming your VCDS is genuine, I'd start a thread on Rosstechs forums as they'll be able to offer much more insight than I can

Could be the clock spring aka the squib? It's basically the wire between the steering wheel and the steering wheel controller. If it failed, it would match your symptoms. Probably worth getting a scan done by vcds or similar 🙂

Your ECU doesn't support measuring blocks. Use the adv meas values instead 👍

What sort of mileage/journeys do you do? Unless it's high annual mileage and mostly longer journeys, I wouldn't recommend a 'modern' diesel. There is too much to go wrong which can be very costly to repair. You also need to consider that various cities are likely to ban or charge extra for euro5 based diesels - it's worth checking anywhere you're likely to be driving From various tests done earlier in the emission fix scandal, the peak HP and torque didn't change much but when/how the power/torque was delivered did. Whether this is a problem is down to your personal opinion during the test drive. The emissions fix is also likely to shorten the life of the EGR valve and DPF, depending how long you intend to keep the car this may or may not concern you.

One is for 1010kg and below, the other is for above 1010kg so there isn't a 1kg difference Pretty sure the axle weights for your car will be on the ID plate. I think it might be around either the drivers or passenger side door openings?

You might want to check these threads to find someone local VCDS owners map: VCDS owners list:

Exactly the same happened to mine, it does wear off despite the fact it doesn't feel like it should I used a small screwdriver to pry it off, just be careful not to mark the leather of the gearknob. I'd suggest you order a replacement first though to make sure they are the same, it certainly looks like the 5L0798117 part I mentioned above. You can see the clips here:

It's a generic ELM 327 device and won't work with VCDS software The website suggests either OBD Auto Doctor or MUltiECU but I've never heard of either. To be honest, I'd probably send it back given you also need to buy the software... If you want to use VCDS, this is a brand new, genuine HEX-V2 (3-VIN) from an authorised Australian distributor: https://www.autoequipment.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=24_61&product_id=165 At least in the UK, the 10-VIN edition tends to be better value but you'd need to check based on local pricing.

Is it a genuine interface and have you tried the rosstech forums?

I have no idea how similar the BMW engine will be to a Skoda one. I believe your Yeti has a EA288 engine so the G266 sensor is in the sump and the oil circuit looks a bit like this: The oil level/temperature sensor works a bit like this: You should probably try and find something similar to the VAG/Skoda SSP documents for the BMW engine if you want to compare...

I replied to your other identical question here: