langers2k

I recently swapped my MIB2 Amundsen for a Columbus. Yes, you will need both the screen and the glovebox unit. You will need to modify the display Farka connector on both ends as they are keyed and the new screen uses a different key. Trimming the connector with a sharp knife is easy enough. The other connectors/wiring will fit without modification. After fitting, you will need to remove component protection, add FEC/SWAP entitlements, upload the correct dataset and also rode the new glovebox unit to suit your car. If you go down the unofficial route, you can remove CP and add all FEC/SWAP codes with various free tools. However, you will be left with component protection fault codes in the headunit and CAN gateway which I don't believe effect anything. If you go down the official route and use ODIS online, everything will work apart from navigation as your cars VIN only has entitlement for MIB2 std maps. You can use the same free tools to add the MIB2 high map entitlement, it's also worth doing Gracenote and Electronic Voice Amplifier at the same time. This will leave you with no fault codes if done properly.

It's all included in the normal owners manual: https://ownersmanuals.blob.core.windows.net/ownersmanuals/en/Octavia_5E/07-2018/OwnersManual.pdf

Yes - It doesn't matter what tool you use as long as you make the correct changes. Just be aware that some of the channel description/names vary slightly between tools so be careful when searching. That's not entirely true. VCDS will work on SFD protected cars but doesn't provide the token for unlocking, you'll need to source that yourself: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/sfd.php

The white/purple/pink thing is a telephone antenna :) The blind spot unit is the black square thing above and to the right of it.

I have never used OBDeleven so I don't know... However, their website says it is a feature: https://obdeleven.com/supported-vehicles/history?srsltid=AfmBOopwkNikygcEnaYlfAXb_Z5oi-479YmM_QDyBrBw3jn3ABFVOpxc If you can't find it, the OBDeleven forum or their support team can probably answer 🙂

What coding tool did you use? Most have a log or history file to show any changes you've made.

Based on "Please upgrade to a current Ross-Tech interface." and "[New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces]" I'm afraid to say that is not a genuine Hex-V2...

Yes... All they do is add wireless AndroidAuto/Carplay to systems that already support wired AndroidAuto/CarPlay.

Maybe post a full autoscan from your legit HEX-V2 and the latest 25.3 VCDS version... It will probably give more information.

Latest maps for a MIB2 Amundsen which is what I assume the OP has based on the VIN year identifier can be found here:

I only have WM and XE (and now AH thanks!). If I see any other versions I'll let you know. Some of the remote coding services might be able to help if you can provide an Arteon R vin number 🤔

Quick google... V03935274AH Diesel Arteon: https://vagcode.info/en/brands/volkswagen/arteon/3H7/log-462.html V03935316RN Diesel Arteon: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/44580/ Petrol Arteon: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/39880/ V03935290WM - labelled as Passat V03935317XE - labelled as Arteon Not sure if that helps or not. Please can you upload V03935274AH as I've not seen that file online yet.

Can I suggest you do both an autoscan and then also make adaptation maps for all modules. If nothing else, just for your own records. Having a back up can really help in the future if things go wrong 👍

Maybe start with the obvious and post an autoscan from VCDS? That will show exactly what modules you have and what might be possible :)

https://skoda.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do at a guess :)

The cracked orange/yellow thing is a bump stop. Very unlikely to make a noise though... It is dense foam to take impacts towards the end of the suspension travel. They are cheap but the labour makes it an expensive swap unless you're having the strut out for other reasons.

You can download older ones direct from Skoda: https://www.skoda.co.uk/apps/manuals/Detail?model=Superb_3V&edition=11-2018&market=&manualLang=en Seems like it changed between the versions for 11-2018 and 07-2019.

Plenty of folk seem to have issues based on Amazon reviews. Feels like you should contact byteware for advice, they claim to respond within 18 hours...

Pretty sure the power to the rear goes via the front diff cage as per this SSP: Therefore, it cannot be a gearbox issue. To me, the only plausible reason would be a front diff failure...

Not to state the obvious. But the thing you've posted is a completely different shape to your stereo. At a guess, it's for older cars like the MK2 Octavia, not a MK3..

If your headunit can support a genuine camera, it can also support a 3rd party camera. Part number varies as there are lowline and highline versions You'll need a wiring loom from the camera to the headunit and fusebox That depends how your headunit was coded. Lowline and highline kits need different coding However, a 2013 car will have a 92mm wide boot handle which is smaller than a genuine camera meaning it won't fit the hole. You'll either need to cut it bigger or go aftermarket. You might want to look at this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/ The first post is Weyland fitting a 3rd party camera which I believe comes in the correct size for your car. The second post is mine showing my genuine camera retrofit. I assume you've replaced the 5E0035820A you've mentioned previously...?

If it was heavy and the only change was parts, it's likely something is incorrectly fitted... It's not advised to reset a module as there is a good chance it'll wipe config data which will need ODIS to replace. This might be part of your issue but hopefully not. Another VCDS user had similar fault codes and an independent with ODIS fixed it within minutes: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/31747/ Still, I'd be looking at which basic settings are shown in both the ABS and steering assist modules. You might need to do more than one thing to both initialise then calibrate the steering angle sensor. You can then move on to the end stops. Random example from online:

Have you done the obvious? Check the steering angle output is plausible (0 in the middle and changes as you move the wheel) Steering angle sensor basic settings (either in ABS or Steering) Moved the wheel full left, then right, then center In future, just post a full autoscan using copy and paste rather than pictures. It will give a fuller story and is easier to read 🙂

Official hatchback roof bar kit is 5E5071126 which lists a 75KG static load max - as do Thule for their roofbars. That seems fine based on tentbox's recommendation so assuming it's fitted properly, I can't imagine a tentbox would cause any issues for two average sized adults. It might be worth checking everything it still tight before use...

It's probably worth spending a few quid for an hours access to erwin so you can download the correct schematics for your car. It makes this kinda thing so much easier 😉 Images of both relevant sections are attached, not sure about any coding for the ESC/ASR button.