langers2k

At a guess, you need - but please check! - 5E0949102 - 5E0857532 Probably around £30-35 for both It's certainly not a hard task to replace them. Water ingress might fry the indicator electronics but the wing mirror is designed to have water coming in.

It looks like something has triggered component protection to kick in but I can't imagine what. I'd probably start by finding a dealer or local independent using ODIS with online access to reset CP. Guess you could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if restarting everything helps first. Certainly isn't anything obvious to suggest the BCM is faulty...

II think you can reprogram the TPMS sensors using a specialist tool... Not sure on the specifics

From a Blues owners manual:

MIB2.5 Columbus runs at a higher resolution than the MIB2 Amundsen so the larger screen is not compatible.

If you're only getting a Component Protection error, then the BCM might be fine but something has caused CP to get upset. Post a full autoscan up from VCDS

Do you have DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) aka electronical adjustable suspension - most obvious sign would be a 'comfort' mode in the driving modes options. If so, a pair of genuine DCC front shocks are the best part of £600 which is the bulk of the cost. I recently had mine changed for a similar price. However, it you have normal suspension, that feels quite expensive as the shocks as much much cheaper...

Pretty sure orange ones are programmed to a particular corner of the car so you probably need to move them to the correct position. Black ones 'self-learn' and will quickly relocate to the correct positions whilst driving. Nothing to do with the TPMS module position.

The one I retrofitted to my Octavia is on the back right and works perfectly. Which sensors did you fit, black or orange?

It might help if you actually posted the errors

I would be surprised if the MIB2.5 firmware had graphics for the pre-FL as I don't think it's an official combo... Pretty sure you can extract the graphics from the MIB2 using MIB2 toolkit and then insert it into the MIB2.5

I've not done it on a pre-FL mk2 but I don't think there is anything complex involved... The only real danger is leaving it plugged into the car due to the voltages used. As long as it's disconnected, it should just be the three screws you can see and the two connectors. They will probably be quite stiff. Before buying anything, I'd try swapping the headlights over and possibly the ballasts. Just to confirm if it's the car wiring, ballast or bulb that's at fault

First hit on google https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/269/

Both headlights should be the same height so number 2 is correct - assuming that the headlights are at the right height which is impossible to tell from a picture Much like these images:

Wrong firmware on the camera... Same issue here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445448-rear-view-camera-retrofit/?do=findComment&comment=5656532 Resolved by flashing the correct firmware/parameters using VCP: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445448-rear-view-camera-retrofit/?do=findComment&comment=5663610 Might be worth contacting the seller as they probably sent the wrong one out

You have a Bolero which does not support satalite navigation... Adding the SD card won't change this 😞

@tetley and @J.R. - I think the OP is suggesting there are two mount points which are damaged... On with the end of the old bolt stuck which can probably be removed. Then a second which I assume is the "irreparably broken" one - probably this rusty thing:

Pretty sure most common rail engines aren't a great candidate for bio-diesel conversion due to the lubrication needs in the high-pressure fuel pumps and injectors so it feels quite unlikely for such a new car to have been converted given the potential savings. There is already an option in the infotainment system to disable interior monitoring if needed. It used to be a switch on the drivers B-pillar... Progress As I said before, the tracker is the most likely option. It might be worth taking a look to see if there is any wiring coming off the back of the switch or any other obvious modifications around the OBD port. It's likely to be a separate system so I wouldn't expect any obvious changes when flicking the switch. It's worth investigating to make sure that you're not being tracked and there are no future issues with power draw causing a flat battery etc. Assuming it has been completely removed, a new blanking plate will let you remove the switch too

The simplest way is to buy an error cancelling kit, these plug into where the shocks used to connect and should prevent errors. Coding will depend what equipment your car has. There is a brief look at some of the modules involved here: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/dcc-retrofit.378431/page-11#post-7815140 If you have xenon/LED headlights with self levelling, you'll need to rewire the ride level sensors from the DCC module to another module to perform the levelling.

Pretty sure it's normally the headlight range for cars with halogen headlights As for the OP's car, it's probably for an aftermarket tracker which can be set to business or personal use (hence B & P). No idea if it'll still be fitted or if it's just the switch that's been left in place.

It's the CID (Card IDentification) that determines if the SD card can be used for maps or not. Formatting won't change or delete the CID so it's perfectly safe to do so. There is a guide here:

Normal behaviour is for the radio to stay on until you remove the key. If it's intermittent, then I expect something in your ignition barrel is starting to fail or it's become loose enough that it thinks the key has been taken out

Sounds like you should grab some wiring diagrams etc from erwin as you probably need to check for power, ground and CAN at each of the modules on the drive CAN-bus. Very loose positions of the modules:

Looks like the entire drive can-bus is down... Unlikely to be that many fuses. You could disconnect all the modules on the drive can-bus to see if it's a module.. Otherwise, it could be the can-gateway or possibly the wiring to it from the drive can-bus. At least that's my first guess 🤔

It's no different to many other cars from various manufacturers so no, not particularly pathetic IMO