langers2k

@tetley and @J.R. - I think the OP is suggesting there are two mount points which are damaged... On with the end of the old bolt stuck which can probably be removed. Then a second which I assume is the "irreparably broken" one - probably this rusty thing:

Pretty sure most common rail engines aren't a great candidate for bio-diesel conversion due to the lubrication needs in the high-pressure fuel pumps and injectors so it feels quite unlikely for such a new car to have been converted given the potential savings. There is already an option in the infotainment system to disable interior monitoring if needed. It used to be a switch on the drivers B-pillar... Progress As I said before, the tracker is the most likely option. It might be worth taking a look to see if there is any wiring coming off the back of the switch or any other obvious modifications around the OBD port. It's likely to be a separate system so I wouldn't expect any obvious changes when flicking the switch. It's worth investigating to make sure that you're not being tracked and there are no future issues with power draw causing a flat battery etc. Assuming it has been completely removed, a new blanking plate will let you remove the switch too

The simplest way is to buy an error cancelling kit, these plug into where the shocks used to connect and should prevent errors. Coding will depend what equipment your car has. There is a brief look at some of the modules involved here: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/dcc-retrofit.378431/page-11#post-7815140 If you have xenon/LED headlights with self levelling, you'll need to rewire the ride level sensors from the DCC module to another module to perform the levelling.

Pretty sure it's normally the headlight range for cars with halogen headlights As for the OP's car, it's probably for an aftermarket tracker which can be set to business or personal use (hence B & P). No idea if it'll still be fitted or if it's just the switch that's been left in place.

It's the CID (Card IDentification) that determines if the SD card can be used for maps or not. Formatting won't change or delete the CID so it's perfectly safe to do so. There is a guide here:

Normal behaviour is for the radio to stay on until you remove the key. If it's intermittent, then I expect something in your ignition barrel is starting to fail or it's become loose enough that it thinks the key has been taken out

Sounds like you should grab some wiring diagrams etc from erwin as you probably need to check for power, ground and CAN at each of the modules on the drive CAN-bus. Very loose positions of the modules:

Looks like the entire drive can-bus is down... Unlikely to be that many fuses. You could disconnect all the modules on the drive can-bus to see if it's a module.. Otherwise, it could be the can-gateway or possibly the wiring to it from the drive can-bus. At least that's my first guess 🤔

It's no different to many other cars from various manufacturers so no, not particularly pathetic IMO

There is no button, it's a mechanical system from the rear doors... From the owners manual:

I think you're over thinking it... It makes little difference which direction the piggy pack fuses go as they are very simple things: Fitted in the 'wrong' direction, both the original and new device will pull current through the original fuse which 'could' cause it to pop. Given the current use and likely fuse rating for a dashcam, this is unlikely so either orientation is fine and both circuits are still protected I would rather have the piggy back holder held in at both ends (so an existing circuit) as it's the only mechanism to secure it in place. Cars are subjected to lots of bumps, jolts and vibrations so it feels a safer option to me.

CR is an engine technology whereas RS (or vRS) is a spec level. The RS/vRS comes in both diesel (184ps and petrol 220, 230, 245ps). At least in the UK, there are two similar models: - Octavia Scout 2.0 TDI 184PS 4x4 DSG Estate - Octavia RS/vRS 2.0 TDI 184PS DSG 4x4 Estate Both will have very similar, probably identical CR engines. The difference is mostly styling and suspension, the Scout will have higher offroad suspension with extra plastic and the RS/vRS will have lower sports suspension along with sports styling. Couple of pictures from the brouchure: Based on those pictures, you should be able to look at the wheel arches and grill to decide if you have a Scout or RS/vRS. Assuming it matches the Scout, I would expect you should be able to insure it as a 2.0TDI Scout "CR" but I would suggest contacting your insurance company to confirm.

The separate daughter board is only for earlier pre-FL clusters afaik... As that's a FL cluster, it'll probably be the normal LED failure/dry solder joint which messes up the entire LED multiplex system used to power them. I think you probably need a good local electronics repair shop and to check out the guide in this thread:

How do you figure the sidewall is an inch different between those sizes...? The rim is an inch different. However as you have tyre all the way round the rim, it'll only have 1/2 inch difference in sidewall height assuming the same rolling diameter (pretty close given those tyre sizes). It'll probably help ride quality a little but it's impossible to give a number to help you decide.

From the snow chain section of the 07/2018 owners manual: That suggest some 15" or 16" wheels might fit but it'll depend on the size of your front brakes I think you have the wrong tyres sizes... The profile alone doesn't dictate the side wall height as it's a percentage of the tyre width. So a 255/45 will have a larger sidewall than a 205/45 tyre. Anyway, a 'normal' Octavia (not Scout) runs: - 6J x 16” for 205/55 R16 (~112.75mm sidewall) - 6,5J x 16” for 205/55 R16 (~112.75mm sidewall) - 6J x 17” for 205/50 R17 (~102.5mm sidewall) - 7J x 17” for 225/45 R17 (~101.25mm sidewall) Changing to 205/55 R16 would give roughly a 1/2 inch difference in sidewall height. Changing to 195/65 R15 would give roughly a 1 inch difference in sidewall height (~126.75mm sidewall). I assume you've checked the pressures are correct and tyre are decent quality...?

A pre-FL with xenon's uses module 55 to control the headlights: - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/8744/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/5516/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/4753/ A FL with LEDs uses module 4B to control the headlights: - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/15781/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/39021/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/29381/ Therefore, you will need to replace control modules and adjust the wiring to match a FL wiring diagram to get the LED headlights to function correctly.

If you connect to any of the canbuses directly and start sniffing, you will definitely see data transfer assuming you pick the right baud rate. Ages ago I grabbed a cheap can transceiver and was able to see data on my bench set up... It's possible the diagnosis canbus only responds to requests but I'm a little surprised there is zero traffic. Did you try different bus speeds and do you have a scope to check nothing is happening?

Oh? Why not? Is it a cloned interface?

Assuming it's a OEM highline camera, the coding should be super easy. The folk doing the towbar coding should easily be able to do it... I included it in my post when I retrofitted one:

You forgot to update VCDS. And to add the codinglog.csv and adplog.csv from C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Debug...

A lowline camera at address 20 cannot support TSR or lane assist. I would suggest checking your coding log to ensure you've reverted all the changes correctly. If you still have issues, update your VCDS to the latest edition: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Then post a full autoscan, the coding log and adaption maps from 09, 20 and 5F

@Rainesh - it seems you can't receive messages at the moment. I was hoping to update my OCU, it's currently: Address 75: Telematics (J949) Labels:* None Part No SW: 5WA 035 284 B HW: 5WA 035 284 B Component: OCUGen3High H20 0035 I believe I need to update it to SW:88 and then SW:143? Are you able to provide these files along with any instructions needed please? The MIB3 is: Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels:* None Part No SW: 3V0 035 816 B HW: 3V0 035 816 B Component: MU-O-ND-EU H22 0270 If I understand correctly, I need to update to SW:0308 and then SW:0330. Are MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30800P_0308.7z and MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P33000P_0330.zip on MIBsolution OK to use? Does it matter if I upgrade the headunit or OCU first? Thanks!

Regulations only require one fog light so only one is enabled by default at a guess....? Some folk claim it's one fog to avoid it being confused with brake lights, I've no idea of the real reason. However, it's cheaper from a manufacturing stand point to only have one set of rear lights to cover both LHD and RHD. Therefore you end up with a unused bulb

It's normal that only one rear fog is activated from factory. On a RHD car, it would be the right rear and on a LHD (like yours) it would be the left rear

You won't until the parking module is happy...