langers2k

Post your autoscan and adaption maps. Tweaks will depend on which modules you've got so it's hard to give advice without knowing what's fitted

That'll probably be your problem. You have an external amplifier and this tweak is only suitable for the internal amp. When you change from Sound_system_ External_ Most to Sound_system_INDIVIDUAL, you'll be turning off the optical feed to the amp which is why you have no sound Change it back to Sound_system_ External_ Most, clear any error codes and you should be fine again.

What are the problems you're having? Might be adding your latest autoscan + adpmaps so others can check for anything obvious

Welcome. I fear you may have joined the wrong forum. Most of our knowledge is around Skoda's and other VAG group cars rather than Toyota's. You may have better luck on a Toyota forum Maybe start by checking the owners manual: https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals/land-cruiser/2010

Sure, can you post an autoscan from before and after your changes? Might also help if you say what you did

The MK3 radios won't fit or work in a MK2. The best OEM radio would be from a FL Yeti, there is a long thread here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/409691-amundsen-mib-std2-infotainment-system-with-android-in-superb-ii/ In short, if you want a MIB2 style (as per the linked thread) you should contact @pab567 as he can supply and help with any extra bits you need. There are plenty of aftermarket options too, depends what you want and your budget

Recirculation will obviously help as it shouldn't pull any air (or viruses) from outside. However, the car will only run like this for an amount of time before drawing fresh air in to keep you alive. In the real world, you're very unlikely to catch the virus outside, even less so with the short contact times you're looking at during a typical drive. Especially as your profile pic suggests you've been vaccinated. At least assuming you don't have an 'infected' climb on your bonnet and start coughing towards the cabin air inlet If you're truly worried, take a different route or don't make the journey...

That's horrible! That looks like water ingress or a broken cable just waiting to happen.... I would have run the cable inside the rubber gator and had it appear from behind the boot lid trim. Obviously this means the 'fitter' would need to remove the boot lid trim for access and taken more time which is probably why they didn't!

If your Karoq has no TPMS system, you can probably enable the indirect system by coding as it's part of the ABS module. If you have indirect TPMS and want the pressures to be shown, you'll need to add tyre pressure sensors and the TPMS module. It's not something the factory would fit but leave disabled Not sure if SFD comes into play on a MY21 Karoq as that's going to spoil everyones fun. Some modules may need a code from VAG before they'll accept changes which is going to suck for coding/retrofit.

If nothing has been changed or replaced, the module shouldn't need recoding... I don't think it's possible to 'reset' the CC either. If there are fault codes, they can be cleared but if they come back then you'll need to find out why. Still, if you really want to try changing the coding, I'd probably try (at your own risk): - byte 00: 14 (currently 6E) - byte 01: 10 (no change) No idea what different that will make or if it's actually correct for your car. If you get odd behaviour set it back to 6E and get the car on VCDS to get a better idea what's happening and what modules are installed.

It's more likely to be a failing cable or bad update from Samsung or Google. If you haven't already, I'd suggest replacing the cable as that's a cheap and easy thing to try. Might also be worth posting a picture of the SW version for your radio too. It should be under settings, system information or something like that. For example:

I think we're gonna need a little more info... There isn't a one code fits all cars I'm afraid. Lets start with: - What happened to the car - Has something been changed/replaced - If so, what are the old/new part numbers - Were you able to read the old coding out - Do you have a MFSW - Manual or DSG gearbox

At least in my experience, the following is true for VAG cars. - If the car has halogen headlights, there is sometimes a lever that will convert from the ECE cutoff with a flick up to a completely flat cutoff. - If the car has LED/Xenon headlights, they normally drop slightly and move over. The cutoff doesn't change. I'm not familiar with the Kodiaq but I imagine you fall into the second category and I'd be very surprised if it could change from RHD ECE to LHD ECE cutoff patterns... I think you're gonna need new headlights I'm afraid :(

It just needs unclipping, it should slide out to the rear with little effort. I've circled the clip here, again a small flat blade to move the clip down works well:

I'll let you know... I've got the OEM parts to do this sat on the shelf. From what I understand: - run a LIN-bus wire to each footwell light - replace the connectors for each footwell light (2 pin to 4 pin) - move the footwell power source to a suitable live (ideally the fuse for the other ambient lights) - connect the new LIN-bus wire to the same pin as the ambient light LIN-bus - fit new footwell lights - some recoding The only tedious bit is running the new wire as I expect I'll be taking the seats out to make it easier. Not sure if @SashaGrace used OEM or aftermarket parts

Got an image of your connector? I assume it's this connecter and style: You need to 'unlock' it first. There are two flaps that release, one on each side. I've marked one side up in red and I tend to unlock it using a tiny flatblade and sticking it in around the orange arrow. The pin should slide in with very little effort and 'click' into place Once it's unlocked you should be able to clear our any broken bits too.

I expect JR RS did it themselves As for cost, I grabbed an OEM kit (module, wiring, 4 sensors) from aliexpress for ~£120 but I also intend to fit, code and parameterise it myself. It's only four wires that need connecting. Just waiting for a free, dry weekend to do it. Although the tyre sensors might end up waiting until I need new tyres fitting...

I'd stick with the original module, it'll need the window limits relearning but that's normal after disconnecting the main battery. The replacement module will likely need coding and the adaption channels sorting out unless it's from an identical car. It may even need a dataset which VCDS can't do.

V14 VW download wouldn't fit on my 16GB card using the same formatting as the V13 maps. I'm gonna use the "Europe – Bundle 2" instead https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_1730_V14.7z for now... Should cover Andorra, Belgium, France, Gibraltar, Great Britain, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain at a guess.

The SOT-976 looks like this: The end of the red wire needs powering from a suitable switched ignition feed as per the ISO standard: The yellow and black pins on the ISO connector should already be permanent 12v and 0v from the standard quadlock. Might be worth adding some pictures showing the looms you've got and the CK3100 loom

Welcome! Pretty sure the Fabia doesn't have a switched ignition feed for the stock headunit. You'll need to run a new one from the fusebox

Just so I understand correctly... You're saying it's just the wash/wipe that's not working when stationary? Pulling the wiper stalk will only activate the washer jets (and wipers) to clean the windscreen when you're moving?

If it was a bonnet switch issue, the cluster would either show the door open light or the image above to warn you. If it was a fuse, then the wipers wouldn't work at all. Anyway, pretty sure this is normal behaviour. It's identical to what I remember happening on my MK2 Octavia which is the same platform and electronically very similar. The wipers would work normally when driving but when stopped, they would pretty much stop and only do a very occasional wipe. The Yeti manual states the wiper interval is speed dependant. My old Octavia manual goes one step further and states that below 4 km/h, the wipers will switch to auto/intermittent mode, it'll revert back to the correct interval at above 8 km/h. It's easy enough to test the wipers, turn the car on and have the wipers enabled then have someone spray the window with a hose pipe. I'm pretty sure they wipers will move just not as often as you expect. I certainly can't think of any obvious failures that would prevent the wipers moving only when stationary...

Welcome! It might be worth asking your question here as you'll get more eyes on it. If it's not related to swapping tail lights, you should start a new thread. You can also send @AlVala PM (private message) by pressing 'message' on their profile: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/102097-alval/

It's entirely possible to retrofit a direct system capable of showing the pressures. - You can fit a VAG module which will integrate perfectly it'll show in the radio and instrument cluster. - If you want a cheaper option, there are standalone versions from China you can stick on the dash. It's down to how much you'd like to spend and if you're happy with a separate display or not