langers2k

You need nozzles and a wiring loom. The wiring loom needs to get from the nozzles to the BCM and connected to the correct pin. The last stage will be coding with VCDS or similar. Example from a MK7 Golf: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/heated-washer-jets.314963/#post-6511128

This thread might help:

This might help:

You might want to look at this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445299-installing-speed-cameras-on-the-amundsen-mib2-free-database-and-quite-simple-to-do/ The latest version is here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445299-installing-speed-cameras-on-the-amundsen-mib2-free-database-and-quite-simple-to-do/?do=findComment&comment=5546902 That being said, I think the warning sound is pretty quiet so I'm not sure how useful it is... I assume you probably have an Amundsen headunit so you won't be able to add these to the normal nav SD card. You'll need to use a second SD card in the other slot

Pretty sure that's an allen key to remove the rear lights

You should update your VCDS to the latest version: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php As for your problem, the boot handle has probably failed. You should check it and replace if needed

The headunit in a MK2 Superb only has permanent live feeds. There is no switched live... The Connects device might create a switched live from the CAN-bus messages? I'd check the the manufacturer.

I'd agree with that: It seems the OP doesn't have the folding option. I think the best bet it to turn 'C' and see how much angle you can get on it

Both should be permanent live so 12v regardless of the ignition switch. At a guess, you have a damaged wire or joint and when you're moving the loom, it's making a high resistance fault. I'd probably try measuring the voltage while moving the loom around next.

I think it needs to be a separate SD card iirc. At least for the Amundsen

That's too low... It should be very close to the battery voltage so above 12v. I would check the battery voltage and check the voltage either side of fuse F8 to see if you can narrow down where the voltage drop is happening. I'd also try a different ground point to make sure it's not the ground path that's causing issues.

Oh, sorry, I misunderstood. I read it that the old headunit still worked when you refitted it. If neither are working, then it's likely you've popped a fuse somewhere... To start with, use a multimeter to check you've got 12v and ground on the quadlock connector in the car. The two circled in red should be power, the one circled in blue should be ground: I would then only connect the quadlock and see if either headunit will powerup using the button as that should work regardless of if the CAN-bus side is working

The antenna uses 'phantom power'. That means the headunit is applying power to the same wire that the antenna is using to provide the radio signal. If the headunit isn't turning on and you're sure it's getting 12v, then there is a chance you've damaged something in the headunit...

Had a quick google over a morning coffee. Yes, I'd say the front diff and VAQ haldex oil are separate. When the dealer says the diff oil need replacing, they actually mean the VAQ haldex Few images for those not familiar with the VAQ. Nice to see the SSP still names it "Haldex coupling pump for 4WD V181" even though there is no 4x4 involved Anyway - the important notes are: - if you have a VAQ fitted, it will need the haldex fluid replacing periodically - It's around 3 years/30k miles but if you drive hard, do it earlier - Much like a rear haldex, the haldex pump should be removed and the strainer/mesh cleaned The last point is the important one as I expect many dealers won't do this as standard given what I've read of people rear haldex experiences

I'd suggest checking the wires in the gator between the door and car body. Probably worth checking both the front and rear on the same side

The OP asked about the VAQ electrically adjustable LSD (aka the trick diff). It uses the same haldex style clutch system to adjust how locked the front diff is as you'd traditionally find on VAG 4x4 models to do front/rear power transfer. Therefore it's subject to similar servicing requirements 👍 I'm not sure if it's got separate fluid for the diff and haldex clutch pack but I'd assume it would. I think when it comes to servicing the VAQ the terms get used interchangeably (rightly or wrongly)... I need to have my VAQ serviced soon so it's something I'll be looking in to in more detail.

Yeah I'd assume it's only the haldex side that gets serviced. The actual diff probably shares the gearbox oil as it would in a non VAQ equipt car 👍

Yeah, connect the two wires together. There is a link inside the brake pad that does the same. As the pad wears, it eventually destroys the link so they aren't connected causing the warning light to show. At least that's my understanding 👍

I think it's recommended at 3 years/30k or earlier if you have an aggressive driving style. At least based on a Golf with the performance pack (includes a VAQ).

The VAQ does need servicing occasionally so it probably needs doing depending on your mileage. Make sure they remove the pump and clean the strainer/filter too

You should be able to short the two wires together for the brake pad warning to disable it. If not, you can code the warning out with VCDS or similar.

I had assumed you would have a Bolero/Amundsen which look sorta like this with a physical 'App' button: If instead you have a Columbus, it'll look like this: If you press 'Menu' there should be a 'Smartlink' option which will show a screen like this:

I would expect a '19 plate car to have Smartlink+ with both AndroidAuto and Apple CarPlay enabled... If you press the 'App' button on the radio, both should be shown and it'll ask you to connect a device.

I don't mean to sound like a broken record but that really is the first thing to figure out. There are no switches, relays or anything interesting on the power/ground path for the door controllers. It's just wires, joints and fuses... If I were you: - I'd disconnect all four door controllers while you do this (one or more may have internal faults although unlikely) - Check that the door fuse(s) have 12v on the output and are capable of supplying decent current without much voltage drop (test lamp with a 21w bulb is fine ~2a) - Check for continuity and load carrying capability along each power feed between the fuse(s) and the power consumer (door modules) - again test lamp is fine Hopefully that'll find a fault in either the power or ground wiring and after repairing, you'll get a solid 12v supply to all four doors. Once you have verified there are no wiring issues with the power feeds, you can then add the door controllers back in one-by-one and scan between each addition to see if they communicate and if the power rail stays happy. As the late, great Jack over on the Rosstech forums used to post:

While I agree it isn't an MOT issue, it could cause issues if the OP were to have an accident either caused by a faulty front assist system or would have been avoided had it been working. It'll depend on what you agreed to when taking out the insurance. No idea if it would cause issues in the real world or is just theoretical