langers2k

I'd expect it behind a boot trim to keep the cable between it and the external antenna short. Part number 15 (https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/sup/851/035350/)

5E0035874A seems to be an MIB1 Amundsen. This thread is for the Columbus so you might want to try the maps here: You'll also need to use an appropriate Skoda/VW SD card

You can access the official workshop manuals directly from Skoda: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/ It's a pay per time slot service so I'd suggest a decent internet connection and saving as much as you can A 'print to pdf' function might help too...

Take a look with a borescope? I'd be worried that expanding foam would get everywhere, come out the top, bottom and any other hole along it... Maybe check if the top or bottom are open and use a spongy foam you can squeeze in and remove later?

A faulty BCM shouldn't stop the door controllers communicating... You can probably access the three connectors if you remove the trim in the drivers footwell. I don't have a guide or pictures unfortunately. It shouldn't be necessary to completely remove it yet. If the door controllers still don't show up with it disconnected, then it's unlikely to be related. Have you managed to get 12v to the door controllers yet?

They are different on the pre-FL and FL. The pre-FL seems to use: - 5E0 821 105 A/B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821105b-front-left-fender-skoda-21305.html - 5E0 821 106 A/B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821106b-front-right-fender-skoda-21306.html The FL seems to use: - 5E0 821 105 C https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821105c-left-front-fender-skoda-32524.html - 5E0 821 106 C https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821106c-right-front-fender-skoda-32525.html If you're buying used, make sure it came from the correct car...

The connector be shared amongst various antenna. You need the part number for the entire thing. It might be stamped on the base or possibly on a sticker stuck around one of wires.

There is no video input or connection for an external satnav, so no, I doubt this is possible... :(

If they have the same part number, they will be identical

When the 245 was first released, it had a few extra's compared to the a standard vRS. It seems to be known as the '245 edition'... Then towards the end of the MK3 vRS run, they released the challenge edition which also had a better spec than the standard vRS. I've attached a couple of brochures for you. Octavia Brochure Nov 2017.pdf Octavia Brochure Nov 2019.pdf

Can you add a log or some screen shots? It would be handy to see exactly what OBD11 is reporting and which module is unhappy. Most google hits seem to be Audi related so I expect something may be miscoded but it's had to say without more information.

It's not clear from your original post what you're trying to do or find out. You might need to give some context and tell us a little bit more At a guess, your radio has stopped working and that's the fault code stored in the CAN gateway??

You need TSR to get the speed limit to show in the cluster 👍

Yup, scanning with the engine running is fine 👍

A genuine VAG TPMS sensor can be had for sub £20 but obviously you will probably need to pay a tyre fitter to install it. Still, compared to most things that can go wrong on a car, it feels pretty cheap to me

Should be possible to retrofit it...

When they clone a key, it has exactly the same UID in the immo chip so the car can't tell the two keys apart. This means that if either of the two keys are lost, you can either: - remove the UID meaning neither can start the car - leave the UID meaning both can still start the car The former sucks as you then need two new keys, the latter sucks as someone may use the lost key to steal the car Depending how the key was lost, the latter may not be an issue... If it's newly cut and not pre-coded, with the right tools it should be possible to correctly pre-code it. However, a dealer can't... As mentioned in the article I posted, pre-coding came in around 2006 so your keys will definitely use it.

I'm not super familiar with a 2016 Rapid so this isn't gospel... - The remote fob is usually pretty easy. Tools like VCDS (probably OBDeleven) can ask the BCM to relearn them by pressing the lock buttons one by one. - The immobiliser (immo) chip is harder. You'll need a decent auto-locksmith with the right (specialist) tools and knowledge for your vehicle. At least when I was messing with stuff on a 2012 Octavia, there were two parts to the immo chip coding: - the immo chip is 'precoding' to the vehicle, this can only be done once and if a dealer orders a key, it'll come 'precoded', they can't do it themselves - the immo chip needs 'pairing' to the vehicle, this is normally done using Skoda's servers and can be done by a dealer using ODIS Whether the key you have will work, will depend on: - if it's not 'precoded', it's probably usable - if it's 'precoded' to your car, it should be fine - if it's 'precoded' to a different car, it's probably useless I think some 3rd party tools might be able to re-apply the 'precoding' but a dealer certainly can't. The other gag is that many auto-locksmith's simply clone an existing key rather than creating a new unique ID. This means that if you do misplace a key, you can't remove it from the car unless you replace both keys! I'm not 100% but I think the latest cars actually need a connection to Skoda to pair keys, not sure when this came in but I don't think a 2016 car will be effected. Basically it's all just a game of cat and mouse between VAG and the 3rd party tool creators. VAG make it harder for third parties to create/add keys, the 3rd parties reverse engineer the new immo version forcing VAG to change again, repeat, repeat... One take on a brief history for VAG immo and the 3rd party workarounds: https://lockmedic.com/2018/02/08/a-long-explanation-of-why-we-dont-do-vw-audi-keys-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-the-war/ Sorry - that seems to have gotten a bit long winded! In short, yes, immo work needs a good specialist: - if you're lucky, you may be able to reuse the existing spare - if not, you may need to order one from a Skoda dealer and have them sort it

Welcome @Steve001001 Can you post a VCDS autoscan along with an adaption map from 09 and I'll take a look

There are a few parts to the key: - the key blade which needs to be correct for the locks - the immobiliser chip which needs to be paired to the car and should never become unsync'ed - the remote fob which uses rolling codes and can become unsync'ed if used out of range repeatedly The remote fob is the only part that uses the battery so even if it's been removed or flat, you can unlock and start the car with it. Given only the key blade seems correct, it feels like a previous owner lost the original spare and did the bare minimum (eBay used key + new blade) to avoid fees when they handed the car back? Assuming you bought it from a dealer, you should go back and ask them to resolve this for you...

Yeah an ignition cycle is just turning it off and back on with the key. I'm not expecting it to help with the door controllers but it should get the BCM (address 09/46) communicating again

I haven't got a MK4 so I've not spent much time on this but given some of those costs I had to take a quick look... There is this kit which is customised by PR code/headunit. Certainly better at ~£350 but I'm not sure what unlocking SFD requires or which tools are needed: - https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-octavia-nx-4-gen-rear-high-line-camera-kit-retrofit,id4274.html Otherwise, there are a couple of options on Aliexpress. The first is advertised for a MK4 but no mention of PR code or coding help, it's not a seller I've used: - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002357151512.html The second seems to be identical although advertised only for an A3. This is a seller I have used and found helpful in the past: - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002348625696.html If I were doing this, I'd probably contact Audi Auto to see if the A3 camera can be used/parametrised for a MK4 Octavia and if they know about the coding/SFD unlocking. They certainly seem to do the loom for an Octavia: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002504963576.html

The missing 09 and 46 isn't unusual, probably just needs the car locking/unlocking and an ignition cycle. Even if the BCM is dead or removed, you should see the door controllers. Still feels like a power supply issue to me... You mentioned previously the voltage was low even after you ran a temporary feed. That suggests either a bad ground or that the power supply has chaffed and is now being earthed somewhere. Hopefully you can get a wiring diagram and start checking the power/grounds out to narrow it down. It's possible that one of the four door controllers has failed and is pulling the power supply down but that's a bit of effort to remove all four door cards to unplug them all while you test. I'd be tempted to replace the fuses to rule out any micro-fractures. While you're doing this, check the empty fuse slots only have a single contract to make sure none are missing.

Pretty sure 18" Gemini were standard on the FL vRS. There were a couple of special edition 245's which got a few extra's including 19" xtreme alloys as standard, namely the '245 edition' and 'challenge edition'. As for brakes, I think all 245's got the same: - 340x30 vented (PR-1LG) fronts - 310x22 vented (PR-1KW) rears Plenty of info in this thread:

Can't say I ever tried locking myself in the car then trying to get out It feels like normal behaviour due to the deadlocks though. As John mentioned, double tapping the lock button within 2 seconds should prevent the deadlocks but you may need to pull the door handle twice to get out. It's all covered in the owners manual under 'safe securing', might be worth a read to compare with your cars behaviour.