langers2k

Take it to a friendly mechanic with the right tools to check and correctly align your headlights...? If you can, watch them while they do the adjustments and you'll know how it works in the future It should be pretty obvious when the adjuster moves the light: - cover up one light - find and mark the cut off on the floor/wall with tape (5-10m away) - put a couple of turns on one adjuster - see where the cut off has moved There are plenty of tutorials on youtube showing how to roughly set the lights up.

You can see a clear cutoff shape on the left headlight, a bit like this: ______ ______/ There is no such clarity on the right headlight. It just looks like a circle of light with no obvious cutout, much like a torch although it could just be down to the picture exposure... I'd suggest you go to a garage with a headlight alignment tool and have it checked. At least in the UK, it's a pretty quick and cheap process.

Interesting, any pictures/autoscans from units running it? Everything I can see online suggests 0480 is only a MIB1 software. I've just checked erwin and TPI 2049459/10 shows 0367 and 0478 as the latest versions.

I haven't seen anything higher that 0478 for the MIB2.5 Bolero/Amundsen. What do you think the newer version is?

It's from around MY19 or MY20 if I remember correctly rather than during a model change 😕

I'd suggest you contact whoever made your headunit There might be a guide or some hidden codes to change the behaviour.

Parking ticket holder

It makes me wonder if they just replaced the clock spring or actually did both the clock spring and the steering control module. If it's the latter, it could easily be miscoded or even the wrong part for your car... Any chance you could find a local member with VCDS to do an autoscan for you? It'll certainly help with next steps etc

@Michaeldavis39 posted an image with the part number 5E0035842A which is a MIB1 Bolero. Looking at the ones on eBay, they have production dates from late 2013 to early 2015 which makes sense and means it can't support Smartlink/CarPlay/Android Auto. If they did have display from their phone, the only plausible option would be Mirrorlink Looking at the G50 spec, there is no mention of Mirrorlink in the screen sharing section so that would certainly explain the behaviour reported: https://www.phonearena.com/phones/Motorola-Moto-G50_id11670

Changing the offset from 51 to 48 will cause the wheel to sit 3mm further out. So that's either 3mm per side or a 6mm total track width increase, https://www.willtheyfit.com/ is a handy site for comparing alloy/wheel sizes. I doubt it's enough to cause any major issues

It's unusual for a dashcam to need three power connections. I'd be tempted to trace those wires to find out what they're feeding. Does it have a towbar?

At a guess, @Michaeldavis39 was previously using Mirrorlink but their new phone doesn't support it. Assuming I'm correct, I don't think much can be done to add Mirrorlink to their new phone

No coding needed for the ignition switch. There not an uncommon failure as I had to replace the one on my old Octavia. There are a few styles so if possible I'd check what you have before buying a replacement. I think the steering controller is fine given the faults you have.

They look like themisto alloys to me. A dealer will probably charge £250-300 per wheel for a new one so a set of four will around £1000... A proper acid strip and single colour refurb will be probably be £60-90 per wheel for a 18" depending on condition. Maybe slightly more in London? That's probably around £300-350... I'd be looking for some local firms to do a refurb and see what they can do for you

Assuming those codes are coming back when they are cleared, it suggests: - you need a new ignition switch - there is still an issue with the CC switch I'd probably start by replacing the ignition switch and while the steering cowl is off, check the connections for the stalks are in good condition.

Yup, you might need to slide a purple plastic lock mechanism out the way before inserting the crimp. It should be a permanent live. If you used a switched live you'll get fault codes complaining of a lack of comms. The owners manual for a 2016 Superb page 212 suggests fuse 18, which happens to match what I used on my Octavia: https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Superb_3V/05-2016/Manual/Superb/B8_Superb_OwnersManual.pdf I think the crimp might be too big for that slot so you may need to use an alternative slot.

Welcome! That's probably about the right price from a dealer. However, you can get a good used part for a fraction of the price from eBay and various breaker yards etc... Can you add a picture of your display as that will help to ID it for more specific advice. Not sure what the recall is. Might be worth asking them exactly what the issue is and how the recall solves it as that'll help understand it

Have you checked the front struts are the same diameter? The other thing is the rear end as I expect you have a torsion beam rather than the independent multilink a vRS has. I'm not sure if the rear vRS springs/dampers will be transferable... Looking at 7zap, both 2UA (standard) and 2UC (sports) use the same drop links and top mounts.

Personally, I'd pull the fusebox and plug it directly into an appropriate spare slot. You can use a piggy back adaptor but given you have the right crimp and you'll never need to remove it, it seems unnecessary. Should be possible, I think @SashaGrace has fitted a few? At a guess, you need this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32863564919.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.2.24dd6cdfXitCnu Just make sure you select the Superb option and check the handle style matches yours.

I'd agree with that, it's likely Car Scanner Pro has done something weird. Might be worth contacting their support team and seeing if there is a backup or log of the coding changes etc? If not, I'd try and find a local member with VCDS to do an autoscan and adpmaps for you. That should give enough information as a starting point

Heh - simple question, simple answer But yes, basically you'll need: - a new parking module - 4 front sensors - replacement buttons for the centre console - a front buzzer/speaker - a wiring loom for all the above - coding via VCDS or similar There are plenty of places to grab a kit but just as a few examples: - https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-octavia-3-5e-park-pilot-front-w-ops-5q0919294b-upgrade-kit-for-rhd-and-uk-markets,id1768.html - https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-octavia-3-5e-park-pilot-front-w-ops-5q0919294-upgrade-kit-for-rhd-and-uk-markets,id3732.html - https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-octavia-3-5e-park-pilot-front-w-ops-5q0919294-upgrade-kit-for-rhd-and-uk-markets,id3731.html The difference seemingly being which buttons are included. Please check they are correct for you car before buying as they are just examples! There is also a dedicated hole cutter if you want to use the existing bumper and keep things neat: https://www.carsystems.eu/screw-hole-punch-18-2mm-vas-6614-1-ase41217700000,id868.html

There are two official resellers in Romania who sell genuine VCDS cables VCDS can probably do the steering angle but I haven't got any instructions/guides. Without knowing which message is missing it's hard to offer advice on the second code. Given the status of your cable, Rosstech won't help so you're somewhat stuck. I'd suggest finding a specialist with the correct, genuine tools or going to a dealer. Yes, it'll cost some money but your car will be fixed and you'll never press factory reset again!

Yup...

I don't think I have much in the way of ABS adpmaps as I've never needed to recode/tweak them. Quick google came up with a hit: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/8744/ It's a newer module that yours but might help. Assuming your VCDS cable is genuine, I'd suggest making a thread on the Rosstech forum with your autoscan and adpmap

TMBKG7NE6E that'll be a pre-FL MK3