D402

While investigating mine, I found that it's easy to dismantle the latch mechanism - pull the button outwards and all will become clear. No tools are needed and all the parts can be accessed so it might reveal the problem if your latch pins are sticky. The actual fault on mine is that the left hand hinge doesn't clip firmly into place on the dashboard and occassionally needs to be lifted back into place. This realigns the latch pin and all will be well for a while.

Stop/start is disabled, idle speed is higher, and gearbox holds a lower gear than usual. You wouldn't know if it regen'ed during a motorway journey.

There's no need to leave the car switched on while you're working on the brakes, the park brake system will remember it's in service mode and allow you to reset it when you switch back on afterwards. The important things are: don't turn the piston to retract it, push it straight back don't reset until the brakes are fully reassembled

Perhaps those from an Arteon or Passat would fit, it seems to be called a windscreen water deflector.

This post has a source for replacement exhaust valve actuator springs:

Yes, it's a big hit on fuel consumption. Initial warm up is quite quick though, especially with the electric demist heater; in fact, I wonder if it's keeping the revs up to provide power for this, idle speed is very high too.

I'm getting similar behaviour in this very cold spell, it's as if the gearbox holds a lower gear to help the engine warm up. It goes back to normal after about 20 minutes of driving from a cold start at -9 degrees.

£425; Skoda quoted £599, the local VW specialist £650 and another local garage £598. Hope that's not too competitive!

Cambelt and waterpump change plus MOT pass to celebrate the cars 5th birthday. Went to a local garage with a good reputation, they were adamant that the cambelt interval should be 10 years/120k miles but I got them to go ahead anyway.

Ouch, unlucky. You could try breakers and eBay for doors in the same colour, worked well for me with a previous car.

For Amundsen, this has to be an original Skoda card. Links to the latest maps are here: Amundsen Mib2 Map Updates 2023/2024 Thank you @MartiniB for maintaining these

Have you set your tailgate to 'Sport' mode? Or is it like ship's lighting - red at night so as not to affect your night vision?

Clamp 30 is battery voltage, nicely explained here: KL15, KL30, KL31, KL50, KLR and Ignition Position

Can't argue with that

Sorry, I meant the other side of the blue connector on the circuit board so we can see if the missing pin is populated - the opposite side to this: @ApertureS, @langers2k I know I'm clutching at straws here but sometimes pins are not populated to save €0.0001, *2 on the wiring diagram does say "According to equipment" !

If there's no stub of the missing pin visible below the blue connector body, then I'd assume that only the 3 pins are used. Can you share a picture of the other side of the connector?

Lots of owners have reported problems with the start button, perhaps the facing uphill is a coincidence. DIY fix for the starter button here: Ignition switch (w/ Kessy) restoration Worth a try to eliminate this cause perhaps.

Seems like a good idea but somebody, somewhere, lives at the top of a mountain, charges fully every night and doesn't have any regen capacity at the start of their journey...

It's fine to push the piston back with or without the old pads still in place, it's also fine if the front pistons rotate while you're doing it. The rears, however, must be pushed straight back without rotating because this could damage the electric park brake mechanism. I use a g-clamp on cars and motorcycles, and a screwdriver between the old pads on pushbikes.

Both the front and rears push straight back, but, for the rears, you have to use a diagnostic tool to electrically retract the electric park brake mechanism first.

Yes, during the 2020 lockdown I left my car parked for 6 weeks with a solar charger like this 2.5W 12V Waterproof Solar Panel Kit Solar Car Battery Charger Trickle Maintainer plugged in to the cabin12V socket. The battery seemed fully charged when I started using the car again but stop/start didn't work for a while. In hindsight, I should have connected the charger to the under-bonnet terminals.

It's been a few years since I last used them, but I was a regular customer of Autovolks and always found them helpful and good value.

There's a flap in there to prevent misfuelling and I guess your nozzle doesn't insert far enough to open it like a normal pump nozzle does.

I did the opposite with Carista on my wife's SEAT Ateca so it's definitely possible

Push all the buttons in on both the front and rear panels to get the normal, door-activated lights.