TheClient

https://www.turbovanes.com/original-audi-a7-20-tfsi-electronic-turbo-actuator-06l145612k-3476-p.asp https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185535060670?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cnMF7AOuR9S&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mU1OPCdDT9O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

There should be a wastegate available aftermarket. Think aftermarket mahle unit, on gen 3 electrically operated aren't they. Not vacuum units on gen 2. There will be other suppliers but see link. Yours is an is20 tubo yes? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193612686274?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-3x3VBwbQUi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mU1OPCdDT9O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Depends on manufacture date rather than first registration but seem likely to have a later design that didn't incorporate the ratchet retaining band. They were pretty diabolical. But even latest revision, (is it still k?) Are not totally immune from risk. Even if its been replaced (or hasn't) 80k to 100k miles would be a good time yo think about replacing the chain and tensioner again anyway. You don't say vehicle mileage. Your prices seem about ball park from a few years ago, may not take into account recent part price increases and labour inflation. You also need to watch out for oil burning on the ea888 gen 2. If it hasn't had annual 10k max oil changes that will increase the chances of a problem. Its very hard to detect without running car for 500 or 600 miles as well if in early stages before becoming terminal. If it is throwing a manifold error the recommended fix is to replace the whole unit although a few have tried ghetto repairs depending on what the error or fault is with the manifold. There's 2 or 3 common failures modes. But replacement is very likely. I'd say again that price may be a little low now.

Yep. Identical set up. Gen 3 ea888.

I've just done the thermostat module and water pump on my EA888 Gen 3 golf R. And if it makes you feel any better, I reckon £1k is pretty fair. It used to be independents were about £800 and dealers £1000 to £1200, but recent part cost hikes and labour creeping up, that sounds about right and independents are probably where dealers were 2 years ago.. A 75k mile, 6.5 years old car, I did the job myself, used INA thermostat module, they are the OEM, plus gaskets, union, throttle body gasket, even after market that is around £400 plus parts. I spent about 2 days on it! it's rated as a 5 or 6 hour job for a professional workshop. But not on the drive. It's not super easy job without lifts to get under car. I couldn't walk that well for a week! Nothing is inherently super complicated but access is tight everywhere and anywhere and getting underneath and back up from under the car, on the drive, is really wearing. Without the intake manifold removed you have limited view for repositioning everything as well, especially the module positioning lugs and the oil cooler union that has to be lined up and kept in position while bolting the module up to the block!!

It can also be the actuator connection pivot onto the wastegate arm as well that rattles. It is outside the turbo that connects to the waste gate actuator. It's in left of shot but that borgwarner is probably not from your car anyway so connection method will not be identical but similar. It was so much of a complained item in mk2 fl and golf gti mk6s vw had a clip to tighten up the linkage that helped in some cases. If it is the wastegate pivot bushings themselves that allow flap when closed you can end up with underboost which vw's solution will be to fit new turbo although sone turbo rebuilders can remanufacture the bushings and wastgate flapper to operate correctly.

Yeah. Because usually there is a range of fitments possible between 16 and 19" often with different pressure requirements.

In UK, passenger side is left hand side which fits with fault code. Is your car uk right hand drive? Either way, it depends how the mixing flap is jammed compared to whether you are asking to raise or lower cabin temperature. The flap motor is going to be very likely candidate for your problem.

@chrisjhammonds Well. Effectively you were right, it was an idle adjustment but not by turning a screw on the throttle arm like the good old days. But it shows your independent garage were switched on and knew what to check first. As your issue seems to be user intervention orientated! @RaduC you could find a member on here with vcds or obd eleven and check any idle adjustment parameter in engine module. or take to a specialist or even dealer and describe the problem and you could ask them nicely that they check idle adjustment first in engine cotrol module But even though the symptom may seem the same, it isn't guaranteed to definitely be the same fault.

Just reading through this post @pab567and @varooom maybe what the op was getting at when using the term "upgrade" was thinking about physical hardware upgrades. E.g. mib 2.5, active amp, speakers. There would be aftermarket offerings as well like the Focal 2 way split speakers and amp which would beef things up quite a lot sound stage wise.

Wow. Good find. You think they knew all along? And deliberately tried to deceive you? You're ruining my view of humanity!! Well done on the perseverance though. Did you pull the box apart yourself or did you rely on the same fakers to do it. What a good outcome though. If I'm remembering back to the start of this problem one possibility was always the speed sensor, just shows how distracted things become and how even specialists do not check all the correct fault checklists before reaching conclusions.. so if they had of replaced mech it would of still had the same fault!

Seems quite bizarre. Normally flickering boot open message would be a faulty or badly adjusted boot lock. And it's just co-inciddntal that it started at the time you disconnected battery. Maybe. Can you open the hatch with an emergency release inside the car, is there one? In obd eleven in advanced value probably in central electronics there may be a value for the lock or catch status. There are for door locks. Other than that, have you tried disconnecting the battery a second time and leaving a while b4 reconnecting?

They're pretty common to fail or work intermittently after 6 years and up. It is not an MOT tested item BTW. I replaced mine in the Mk2 at about 7 Years. They're pretty sealed up with a gear arrangement and control pcb. If you could get it apart it, could just be brushes, but I just replaced mine as disassembly did not appear super straight forward and if you want to get the car re-assembled and back on the road, time is of the essence for us on these sorts of jobs.. Edit: Ps when you've got to the wiper motor plug - test there is voltage there before unboxing on unwrapping any new motor to make sure it is not wiring.

This is most likely over my experience level now. I'll try to look at the charts later. But, with ecu and mechatronic testing, my belief it they may not always find the fault. If that makes you feel any better. Edit. As in they are usually worthwhile to try, but not always 100% in identifying fault and therefore rectifying.

Yeah. I'm with @toot get an alignment check done first. If there is something seriously amiss that the garage missed, they may pick it up in the alignment check. Bit small changes in alignment do change the feel of the car handling and steering response quite a lot.

Back on topic. @dimrod As indicated i would, I posted in a few youtube failed balance shaft repairs, in the comments, asking about the balance shaft plastic shell. Finally got this, it is written from the perspective of the gen 2, not the gen 3, so mentions two balance shaft tubes but I haven't checked that aspect is the case for accuracy. I guess it must be and the set up is now different for the intake on gen 3. Roland M replying on YouTube. The plastic pipe prevents oil from foaming due to the rotation of the balance shafts. You should not try to run the engine without it installed. As per the VAG TechConnect article... "Of particular interest is that each balance shaft, while riding in bearings pressed into the block, is also encased in a plastic pipe. This innovative design serves as a shield for engine oil returning from the cylinder head to help reduce or eliminate the churning and foaming that would result if the oil flowed directly onto the balance shafts, which, as noted above, spin at twice engine speed." Found the original article. Link posted below. Again, for correct interpretation, please bear in mind the overall article is of the gen 2, so not identical in all respects to the gen 3. https://automotivetechinfo.com/2015/09/a-look-inside-the-2-0l-tsi-engine-with-its-chain-driven-cams-balance-shafts-vvt/

It's awful to get car back but with the looming likelihood of dark clouds forming.... and the access puzzles. Clearly, a locksmith will eventually need power to code new keys, so once in you'll have to have a new battery or booster etc to hand. But I've lost track a little what some electrical power will do for you exactly now, with no keys or access to vehicle? On power, from underneath, with under tray removed, is the alternators supply cable reachable? On the bonnet latch, yet another pain and I've looked online as well. It looks like there is perhaps space to reach up there from lower grill from your photo. In mk2 versions (from memory), with a long pick you could trigger the latch release. But you really need to know a close up of what your aiming for, or what is possible with the mk3 latch to help. Also carE with aircon rad with sharp implements. I'll have a look at the mk7 golf latch later, I don't have car right now, which may be similar design but probably will not be identical to mk3. Seems like we are going nowhere!

But you won’t be able to activate / deactivate door locks with just voltage as the bellows wiring will go to the door controller, then to the door lock isn’t it? The controller will be sending out voltages to the door lock after receiving instructions. You’d need to intersect the door lock wiring after the controller but that is behind door card? Unless I’m not following, which is always possible…

The thieving b#@@!!5ds. It's not enough to take the car but drive it to trash it,. That hole in sump is a big worry like you say. The mfd will have reported no oil pressure and oil level low and stop immediately but did they, and what damage has ensued? Awful... The bonnet is a faff. Like the doors, but maybe less so, can you find a good vag auto locksmith who may know a few tricks for door ingress? Which would then solve the bonnet issue. But I understand your concern on splashing cash now, knowing what you know. Search broken bonnet cable octavia mk3 either inside briskoda or Google and see what you can find. If no help try a similar mqb platform car like golf. I'll see if I can find something.

Very likely they will be standard unless premium amp and speakers fitted. They are in golf mk7 mqb cars.

Oh dear. Painful. Shouldn't this form part of the insurance claim? Or is there no claim made so far for recovery or damage? With the car deadlocked by key, in normal manner (one press of fob) the handle will be deadlocked and central locking button will not work. Unless the thiefs happened to press the fob twice on locking and deactivate deadlocking, in which case the handles (from inside) and probably the button will work.

Oh OK. So the transmission is already out of the car - at a specialist transmission repairers? You're captive then! I doubt they're in it to deliberately rip you off but are trying to stop themselves getting held responsible for an ineffective repair. Even if the codes have been cleared before that vcds extract, it only started misbehaving April 23 right? It did 30k without these faults? I thought there would've have been some other signs of a failing mechatronic over the 30k miles of use. Not helping you a lot I'm afraid. If the transmissions out, then the extra £400 or whatever for a clutch pack and maybe dmf makes some sense if the clutch packs are worn, and you've got a chance it will be the fix or a major part of the fix. If not, you just throwing money at a still faulty gearbox... Have they measured and inspected the clutch packs?

I think it could be either or both with those codes. Are they using their experience or covering the possibilities and risk to them, by saying replace both? I don't know to be honest and would you believe their answer? To be fair I suppose they don't want to be held responsible for an ineffective repair - incorrectly diagnosed or partially diagnosed. Those faults are very recent, unless cleared before. What if the mechatronic has only just become faulty and it is the cause for the misshifts. Surely there is a chance the clutch packs will be OK? Dates and mileage should be first occurrence with the counter in freeze frame data increasing counter each additional log (unless cleared). Matter of who you trust and if you could stomach the overall cost. I'd be a bit worried going in on basis of clutch pack replacement only on your head. What if it's not the problem -clutch packs fine, or not the problem alone - as they've diagnosed both faulty. Thinking out loud, would it make more sense to start with the mechatronic and try with the existing clutch? If the clutch is OK, great. If not, you're only then back to doing both. The mechatronic can usually be removed / replaced in car, but access not easy, some peripheral disassembly. Easier to do if the transmission was being removed on bench for clutch pack but the 2 together are pricey, as you've discovered. Mechatronics can either be repaired but not always successfully or exchange rebuilt or new unit put in. Sorry, not totally clear in my head what you should do at this precise point in time.

It's possible. Is it reporting a oil pressure adaption limit reached in fault code reads? How sure are they the mcu is faulty? Based on what, exactly? 1, I guess wreckers for used low mileage dsg. Needs to be same engine ideally for ratios and exact match or otherwise need to confirm variant match of transmission. And not without risks. 2, Specialist independent transmission place. One of the ones you've tried indicating clutch at fault maybe?. Test and diagnose transmission, strip down inspect. Replace clutch, send mcu for refurbishment, if confirmed faulty.. I Suppose, assuming mcu refurb required it could still approach £2.5 to £3k guessing.

2.4 bar is nearly 35 psi. That's a fair bit more than where you started driving the car at 24psi... With 60kg loading in the back I wouldn't go above the lighter load recommendation of 2.4bar all round. You could go as low as 2.2 but expect a little more squirm and worse economy. 2.2bar will ride the ridiculously pot holed and eroded and broken up surfaces called roads, by our county council, a little more compliantly, if yours are anything similar. Edit. The recommended pressures are on the high side but presumably based on engineering knowledge rather than a finger in the air. I think economy drives the min low load 2.4bar figures as well!