Warrior193

@Gerrycan My understanding is the regenerative braking is from the alternator ramping up its output in regen conditions - this requires the charging system to leave available capacity in the battery. Clearly the braking effect will be limited as the max. output of the alternator is a little less than 2000 watts (2.6hp)

Hello Ro0ter, welcome to the forum. Very sorry to hear of your problem. This sounds eerily like @yesheadjon's story. I do not know what the Swiss or German legal position would be - but clearly your car was running before the dealer got their hands on it. That would be my position - they should return your car in the same condition.

But the 'smart' alternator system doesn't - it normally only allows 60 to 75% charge maximum - apparently to allow capacity for regenerative charging, meaning, with mostly short runs, the battery is never fully charged.

My suggestions were based on the vehicle not having had a recent service. What part of Portugal?

Hello Bob, what percentage was the fail? it doesn't sound as if it was by much - Try a new air filter, fresh tank of fuel and perhaps new, correctly-gapped spark plugs.

I would add a comment on the 'smart alternator' Most of my mileage is relatively short trips commuting to work and I believe that the undercharging buffer allowing for regenerative charging, can be detrimental to battery life. I recharge my battery fully when the stop/start system starts flagging the 'high power use' message. Consider it only a slight inconvenience with the micro-hybrid technology - it would be great if VAG created an algorithm for the charging system that identified when regenerative charging was not likely. Excess energy could always be dumped - rather like the regenerative braking system on diesel-electric ore trucks.

Have you spoken to the manager of this Dealership? If not, request a meeting - point out that the vehicle was working correctly when delivered to them. The onus is on them to prove their claim that the ECU has been corrupted by the supposedly duplicate key. What was the reason for only one key being supplied when you purchased the car in January?

But it was running when you took it in to them, right? This sounds like they have made some sort of mistake and they are now attempting to cover with BS. It is totally their responsibility to return your vehicle in the same condition as when you delivered it to them.

I have just checked - EA211 engine oil pressure should be regulated at 48psi/3.3bar - the readings your mechanic is quoting sound like fuel injector pressures!

I would have to make a guess of somewhere between 75 to 150psi. I can't imagine 100bar being correct.

Warranty replacement Moll EFB in 2016, still testing as good battery and I always use stop/start where possible.

Hello Henry, you say oil pressure is 100 bar - are you sure about that? - that equals more than 1400 psi!

Hello Henry, welcome to the forum. Have you checked the oil level on the dip stick - if so, is the level correct? Do not drive it until you check this.

In my opinion, I would consider replacement of the Turbo might not be necessary - the presence of oil in it just shows how the excess oil has been 'blown' out of the engine - unfortunately, I can't say the same for other engine components (pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft) These are all major parts - and there is a possibility of damage to them by the pistons contacting the excess oil. - plus the catalytic converter will probably need replacement after being contaminated.

Welcome to the forum. You have not made it clear if you added 5L of oil to the engine while it already had oil in it - or were you in the process of refilling with oil after draining old oil (oil change) ?

This may not remain the case - it seems that fully fly by wire systems are in development - with no mechanical connection to steering or brakes. Apparently in a move to fully autonomous driving capability.

Agree that prime suspect will be the change immediately before the problem appeared.

That looks identical to my Amundsen MIB2.

Is it trying to do a DPF regen - does 2007 TDI have DPF?

As @jeallen01 suggests, the noise could be only while the wiper motor is loaded - try putting gentle hand resistance on the wiper arm while it is operating away from the glass. If no unusual noise while doing this, I would suggest using a pot scouring pad (not brillo!) - the type with sponge on one side, and a very gentle abrasive pad on the other - start with dish washing liquid and work up to meths, or alcohol. Good luck.

I've used winters with approx. 4.8% gearing increase over standard - they were fine, gear ratio-wise, and the speedo reads damn near exact according to GPS.

I'm wondering if item 8Q5 'headlight range control' is the reason why HB assist is unavailable to adapt - perhaps someone with LED headlights fitted can advise?

@ddan1275 typing in capitals is considered to be shouting.

For 'medicinal purposes' only, of course 😆

Are you able to post an image of a headlight bulb, taken through the glass - so that the bulb envelope itself is visible?