Warrior193

I suspect a loose connection on the supply tag has caused that overheating and failure. Looks to be a high current supply.

That is my understanding - I recall some discussions a few years back regarding upgrading standard cruise to ACC, as I was interested in doing it.

The 3 or 4 letters in front of the engine number on your V5 registration form are the engine code.

Excessive negative or positive camber will tend to respectively wear inside or outside edge of tyre - instead of even wear over the full width of tyre. Some negative camber is desirable for handling, especially in cornering - but excess negative will cause wearing of the inside edges of tyre.

Hello, if I'm correctly reading the figures you give, your front left wheel has slight positive camber (top of wheel leaning out) and the front right has slight negative. Are you able to say what the actual unit of measurement used is - is it degrees of arc? Is there an indication on the alignment printout that these readings are within allowed specification?

Hello, depending on the trim level, ACC is often an optional extra. The radar block in the front grill is for the collision avoidance 'front assist' braking system - ACC uses a different model of camera behind the rear-view mirror. The easiest way to identify if vehicle has ACC is to check the control stalk, as the normal cruise (usually standard) stalk is different.

I think you will find that the original battery technology was entered incorrectly - other members have reported issues when mistakenly using 'AGM' as the setting - As @Peter120000 says, AGM battery should be entered as 'Fleece'

I believe the G12 Evo coolant does not require the silikat additive - in any case, it is recommended to replace coolant at certain intervals to preserve anti-freeze and anti-corrosion levels.. My understanding of having the silikat bag in the expansion tank pre G12 Evo, was to serve in extending the coolant change periods.

My original suggestion for syringing out the expansion tank with a turkey baster was simply for eliminating any spillage onto engine bay paint (I'm not really that mean to save on 250mls of antifreeze 😄) But I do strongly recommend investing in a proper pair (inexpensive) of hose clip pliers.

I found the most difficult bit was getting damper arm to stay in the correct angle while getting compartment into position. I think I resorted to using a strip of gaffa tape over the pivot in the end.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest a through clean of the full length, then a quality flexible, adhesive sealant - making sure to get it right up into the corners beneath the flexible seals.

Wow, 26.5 degrees - welcome to my sauna.😃

Yes, there is a current monitor tagged (small plug-in) on the battery neg. terminal.

Unfortunately this is a fairly common 'cash generator' for unscrupulous garages.

Could the loud alarm sound have been from the onboard security system activating? Possibly not connected to that new fault code.

I believe more pilots (and passengers) have died by ignoring usual procedure of continuing straight out after suffering power loss during departure, by attempting to return to runway, then stalling into the ground.

I've never had to do this operation, but I'd suspect none - apart from the alarm system (which has own battery) all circuits lose voltage when the battery is disconnected. Hopefully other forum members will be able to better advise. I'd suggest killing the infotainment system first, as this apparently can cause this type of issue. Remember to always leave sufficient time for live modules to enter sleep mode after switching off.

The only way I have seen is to systematically pull the fuse on the various modules - first making sure that the vehicle has entered 'sleep mode' to eliminate false readings from control modules that are still active. Opening a door to access interior fuse panel will, of course, wake them up again - so it may be a prolonged process. Good luck.

Ideally yes - but this shouldn't give rise to the apparent current drain issue.

I'm taking a bit of guess here as I have not seen a wiring diagram for your vehicle - but I think there should probably be two 12 V connections on the motor - 1 permanent and one switchable (live when the stalk is operated) As Pete says, check the relay.

Likely to be an internal fault with the self-parking contact. Does the wiper restart immediately when you push the stalk forward?

You have taken most of the depreciation hit on a new vehicle, why subject yourself to that again?

I have asked several tyre fitters about this, the consensus was that they would not consider repairing a tyre that had been sealed with 'gunk' because of the sheer messiness and difficulty in getting the puncture area sufficiently clean. I guess it's bad enough just getting the old tyre off the rim.

Or temporarily disable systems that appear unable to properly handle prevailing conditions.

I seem to recall another forum user asking a similar question - 'greyed-out' area around indicated location. If I recall correctly, it was due to poor satellite reception, but I don't remember if it was due to a signal reception issue (antenna) or temporary satellite triangulation errors.