Warrior193

I guess that is a slight possibility, but from the little I know about Diesels, it's extremely difficult to hear detonation even if it does occur - unlike a petrol.

I prefer to think of most of the driver assistance functions as a generally useful tool - but not for full reliance, as an assistance only - there will be occasions where the technology will get confused or misused, a case in point being the Tesla recall. Post crash mitigation braking is likely to be, potentially, the biggest life-saver. Seemingly, I am one of a very few who rate automatic idle stop as a useful feature, fag-packet calcs tell me that even a 10 second stop with engine idling makes a small but measurable increase in fuel consumption, not to mention the unnecessary emissions.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It's very likely that a VAG independent will have access - ask them for a confirmation.

Good morning Phil, I don't know what you were driving before, but I suggest taking a couple of test drives in likely-looking vehicles in dealers near you first. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the performance and economy of even a lowly 1.4 TSI.

Hello Peter, welcome to the forum. A metallic knocking sound could suggest excessive wear in the connecting rod bearings (aka big end), are you getting low oil pressure warnings at idle speed?

The cell phone reminder is shown on the main infotainment display - the safelock message is displayed on the multifunction display.

Hello, are you sure of the wording of your first report message (a) Is the message actually 'Engine must be running' - which means that some function requires the engine to remain running. Message (b) - 'Power consumption is high' usually means that battery voltage is too low to allow idle stop to operate. Both messages together can be caused by a failing battery - have you had the battery tested?

It might not be terminal, mine has done it about 3-4 times over the past four years - the last time was a particularly frosty morning early last year. There seems to different information on here regarding the location of the slave cylinder on the M6 gearbox - some say it's external - others say it is an internal, concentric unit (gearbox off job) I confess that I haven't done a visual check on location of mine so far. Common opinion seems to be try replacing the master cylinder first if slave cylinder is concentric type.

Good morning @vinny47, happy New Year - assuming you have M6 gearbox, most likely to be failing clutch slave or master cylinder. Is this happening every time the clutch pedal is pressed?

The engine should at least crank-over if the immobiliser had been activated. Are you able to check what the battery voltage drops to when the key is turned to start position?

Hello Adam, have you checked that the battery hasn't failed/gone flat? Can you read the battery voltage on your DTC reader?

Hello @mantamad Suggest your brother try an approach to a VW or Audi specialist instead, I am shocked with the reported attitude of the local Skoda dealers - ten years is not exactly ancient in the Antipodean view of vehicles! Assuming that your brothers vehicle is DSG - and the gearbox issue was clearly not present before the head unit was changed, this is clearly due to the change - possibly not correctly coded or faulty adaptor? What is the audio 'specialist' going to do about bricking your brothers car?

I think the OP may be referring to the safelock message when you turn off ignition and remove the key.

Good morning Topcat, welcome to the forum. There is an option in the settings menu for disabling the automatic door locking. Is the message you see something like 'Safelock - check manual' ? - I believe this is a warning that the doors will deadlock, - it's a reminder to disable the deadlock function if passengers are to remain in the vehicle if you lock it.

Take a look at Vipa - I've fitted them to the Octavia and the Fabia, no complaints.

Try switching back to another drive mode to see if this behaviour changes. If it is the anti-stall cutting in, it sounds to me as if something is not quite right in the way it's working - especially in the higher gears.

In that case probably not what I was thinking your fault might be - my wife's 1.0 TSI tends to do this in first gear after a cold start, but ceases after about 100 metres - needs braking to keep speed down initially in first gear. I believe it's some sort of anti-stall, but is a lot more noticeable than my 1.4.

Is that the 1200 RPM you quoted in your first post - or around 750 RPM ?

When it does this, what happens if you knock the drive into neutral - does the RPM drop to normal idle speed?

The 'sudden drop in power' you describe is highly unlikely to be a problem related to the gearbox - unless the clutch is starting to slip. Most probably engine limp mode / DPF issues. Do you have manual or DSG gearbox?

It would be ideal if you could drain approx. 0.25 litre of oil back out - the easiest way would be if your oil extractor hose is small enough to fit down the dip stick tube - otherwise, by loosening, but not completely removing, the oil drain plug, as suggested by Breezy Pete.

I'm guessing that Nico wants to know how to access the connectors for the high-level brake light.

From a very long time ago, I seem to recall that cars shipped to OZ from the Mother Country were often identical to home model - apart from being given a lower final drive gear ratio. I can't recall actual RPM figures of my Octavia at 80 plus - er - '72MPH officer, why do you ask'? - but the M6 1.4 is a pretty lazy cruiser - considering having to change-down for an overtake is extremely rare for me.

Sports mode with DSG will move the shift points up the rev band a fair bit, and should sharpen the throttle and steering response - the dampers too, if you have active suspension (DCC?)

I assume you have something like a 2.0 litre TSI 245 or more - I only have a lowly 1.4 150PS - these engines have very good torque and yours will likely have a pretty high final gear ratio.