Warrior193

I'd have thought it would be highly unlikely - looking at the two setups, the mountings appear to be quite different. Although the torsion beam setup gets a fair bit of stick from some quarters - it should be noted that a recently produced hyper car uses it.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The 1st image is the torsion beam rear axle fitted to smaller engined vehicles, I believe that the 2nd image is the multi-link, IRS version fitted to the VRS.

I can see the village named on my maps - Ver. 5L00051236DH - ECE AS 2024; - it is there.

Can someone confirm (or debunk) the theory that excessive plug electrode gaps puts extra stress on the ignition coils?

The snapped-off hose looks to be the crankcase PCV - wouldn't that affect inlet mixture?

I'd like to see a measure of those electrode gaps.

I'm reasonably sure that the automatic levelling system will operate from the basepoint set on the manual adjustment knobs - so your new manual settings should stay the same.

I suggest getting the compression tested first.

Even with a 'fly by wire' throttle, there will be an end stop on the pedal potentiometer - the throttle tap may help to eliminate this as the cause.

The oil pressure switch will almost certainly only warn of a loss of pressure - not excessive pressure. I'd have thought that there would be a visual warning in addition to the OBD fault if the regulating valve had failed.

Hello Rob, does you unit have a single slot for a SD slot and one for a CD ? If the SD card is in place, it should protrude very slightly from the slot.

I'm not positive - but my best guess is that the oil pump is rated to supply a certain minimum pressure at idling speed - the pressure regulator valve would then bleed-off excess pressure as engine speed rises, to prevent possible damage to seals from overpressure.

I'm not sure how that can work, my MIB2 Amundsen screen displays the message 'Map Data Unavailable' when the map SD card is removed.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Can you confirm your infotainment system, is it Amundsen MIB1? Are you sure that your sat nav is working without the SD card? Are you able to actually able to use it to navigate to a particular point - or is it simply displaying a general area map of the vehicles current position?

Looking at the image posted, the yellow caps stay in place - you will need a correct hex. key (allen key) to adjust - I'd suggest a 'T' handled one for this.

I believe it is driven by a separate belt.

I think you misunderstood - I mean connect the meter probes (DC volts setting) on the battery terminal and read the lowest voltage while the starter is cranking. If battery voltage falls below 10 volts, battery is either discharged or dead.

A load test on the battery would have been a good way to check - that could have been done with the Fluke connected to the battery terminals while someone operated the starter. Very likely that the battery had died though.

I'm not sure, but is 'foreign body in tyre' not an MOT failure?

Every time I have had this, (my winters, in particular are screw magnets) the tyre always deflated very quickly when I removed it. In my multiple cases, the tyre had sealed to a certain extent around the object while it was in place - where I was losing about 0.5 bar over 3 to 4 days. Provided the puncture is far enough away from the sidewall, a tubeless tyre repair is permissible.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I was not aware that there was a M5 version. My M6 gearbox is silent in all gears. If the noise is noticeable while driving, I'd suggest that a bearing was in the process of failing - or a gear tooth is chipped.

Very unlikely for any need for 50% mix in those circumstances - but I've known gearbox class Kart racers in the past who've used stronger concentrations in liquid-cooled rigs - so that they don't blow their coolant all over the track when they overheat.

I think that you are looking at this the wrong way - the function of the coolant (together with the lubricating oil) is to transfer excess heat away from engine components and prevent them from overheating. A 50% glycol mix has approximately 20% lower ability (specific heat) to transfer heat away from those components. Yes the engine may be less efficient for a short period until it reaches normal operating temperature, but the way to achieve this sooner is to restrict coolant (thermostats) and/or air flow (shutters) - not by reducing the specific heat properties of the coolant.

My understanding is that the reduction of heat transfer is significant as glycol concentration increases - but the requirements to raise the coolant boiling point, along with corrosion inhibition and anti-freeze protection also need to be considered.

I think it is a little unrealistic to expect an engine to consume no lube oil at all. Providing oil consumption does not exceed specifications, there should be no concern for a small quantity to be used between service periods. There was even a time where Rolls Royce would recall cars for engine rework if they were found to be not using the correct quantity of oil.