Warrior193

The burning question is - did those rear discs and pads really need replacing? No information of miles covered - but a three year old vehicle (1st MOT?) - I'm finding that a little difficult to swallow. Given the vehicle had passed a pre-test and had a service, I'd be asking for a second opinion.

Hello Wilson, the easiest (and by far the cheapest) way is to transfer the immobiliser chip from your old key to the replacement - if you do a search on here you should be able to find how its done.

I prefer the aftermarket, metal valve caps as they usually have an internal O-ring seal fitted - but you need to watch out for them seizing onto the stems.

In that case, it is possible that the fitting socket (If the fittings are threaded into the bodywork) may be the reverse to the external screw/bolt attachments for the dog guard - so, LH thread on near side, may be RH thread - I hope that's not getting too confusing. This might have been done to prevent them from unscrewing when the dog guard is attached / removed. Another thought occurs - the possibility that the fittings are clench nuts - but that would make them non-removeable unless they are destroyed.

Hello Heppie, I'd guess that is a error that should have been corrected in the PDI.

Hello Weti, welcome to the forum. Try threading-in a longish hex bolt with a locking-nut threaded on it - once the bolt is threaded in, run the nut down onto the insert fitting, then use the bolt to unscrew the fastener. NB, the fastener itself might be left-hand threaded, in which case - lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.

Are you sure? - the spec sheets I've seen for the Mk 4 Fabia appears to suggest drive modes are standard.

Interesting regarding Ctek's advice - My Ring charger combines AGM / EFB on the same setting.

Depending on whether you are allowing sufficient time for canbus modules to enter sleep mode before you are taking battery voltage readings, your low readings could suggest that you have a parasitic load draining your battery overnight - or it could just be that your battery is failing - have you had the battery tested? 11.94 VDC is a pretty big drop from full charge. Does your Ctek charger have a AGM/EFB setting? I ask because these batteries require a slightly higher charging voltage than standard ones.

Agree re. gas struts for the hood, makes those engine bay checks easier. I really don't get the (seemingly common) modern trend of leaving it until a warning light flags - rather than doing regular checks.

Hello gogo, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest having the throttle module scanned. One thing you could try - switch the drive mode to sport and see it that improves things.

I would just love an SM. I was on the New Caledonia Safari Rally in the 70s and saw a prototype bent like a banana after the Co-Driver miss-read the route book and they hit a wash-out at over 100MPH. IIRC, it was an updated DS23, fitted with the SM running gear - entered by a French team.

Hello, very sorry to hear of your accident, glad you got out it with some lives left. I guess your leg has a lot of metalwork in it now - how is your recovery going? Very surprised to hear that the airbags didn't fire - even if the initial collision was 'only' a glancing hit, I would have thought that an impact sufficient to cause displacement of the pedal box and a triple roll-over should have fired them. I hope you bought yourself a lottery ticket after that - someone's looking out for you!

If battery failure is the cause, it's rather puzzling why the key failed to recognise when the vehicle was hooked up for jump start.

Does the end opposite the two wires have plug-in contacts? A pure guess, some kind of end of line resistor to simulate a module that's not required to be connected.

@ApertureS are the cam sprocket bolts disturbed during a belt change?

Hello Daniel, welcome to the forum. What colour is your coolant - is it discoloured? PS. I think they're taking the p**s for the coolant flush.

The reason I asked if there was any sign of overheating (and consequently losing coolant) while in traffic was me wondering if the cooling fans were cutting-in - they aren't normally required at higher vehicle speeds due to the 'ram-air' effect. I'd certainly recommend checking cooling fan operation.

Hello Alin, is there any sign of the engine temperature rising above normal in city traffic?

I have found that you can get a reasonable test result with the battery connected - provided you allow all the modules time to go to sleep - this seems to happen on my Octavia after 5-10 mins at most. I would prefer an educated pessimistic battery condition reading any day.

I once had a boat mis-fuelled with petrol (Volvo turbo-diesel) - ended up with estimated 40/60 mix! - engine ran slightly hot at full throttle, but only discovered mis-fuel, after several hours running, when I checked the tank. Fortunately, resulted in no discernible damage to the engine.

Unlikely to be the immobiliser - fault is more likely to be a faulty connection on the key switch. AFAIK, engine will crank (but not fire) if immobiliser chip incorrect or faulty.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Can you confirm whether the engine cranks-over on the starter motor when you turn the key?

Flash point of Diesel can be even lower if contaminated with other fuels - I recall seeing tests where flash point was found to be down to near room temperatures!

Does the aftermarket HUD on the dash work well?