Warrior193

I have seen from other posters (although never experienced it myself) that some screen contaminants are extremely difficult to remove - even sometimes requiring a (very) mild abrasive product. Use extreme caution if considering this. Personally, I would only recommend some type of solvent like (in ascending order) white spirits, thinners or acetone - but keep all of these well away from paint!

@smelly -no, I mean do you have halogen, led/matrix or HID headlights?

Have you tried lifting the blade off the rear window (so that it's in the change/wash position) and operating the wiper - is it still noisy then?

Faith and Begorrah, it's a miracle - the noise is gone!

Whatever you do, don't accept their 1st settlement offer if you consider it too low given the vehicles condition and mileage immediately before the incident. Unfortunately, you may have to spend more time providing comparative prices for similar vehicle.

Hello Adam, normally, random faults after a battery replacement clear themselves - I suggest getting a diagnostic plugged in to check for any fault codes, then clear them.

A correction, Vipa brand (not Viper)

Hello Sam, the engine cylinders are numbered with cylinder 1 nearest the cambelt (or chain) On Skoda's, this is normally the left end of engine when standing in front of car.

Is the higher, second reading with the engine running?

That's interesting - does the off-side door have one too?

That sounds very likely - was the brake servo working correctly before the job? Late now, and an early start in the morning - but I will take a look at my 1.4 booster setup tomorrow. If a vacuum line is off, engine should run like cr*p too.

Load the battery up with headlights, screen heater etc. on - then test the battery voltage with the engine running. Most battery condition testers have an alternator and starter crank test function.

Back in the 60s, in NZ, my Dad was manager of a Wellington taxi firm - he drove an ex-taxi as a private vehicle - black saloon with a RT aerial on the roof. Whole family were on our way to visit grand parents one Sunday afternoon, dad pulled into the car park around the back of a Wairarapa pub out in the sticks, wanting a quick beer - pub seemed to doing a roaring (after hours) trade, car park was pretty full - you never saw window blinds and doors close so quickly! Really odd, all those cars and nobody around 😄

To open the hood for access to the battery, you will need to gently bend the release lever out towards the centre of the car so that there is enough movement to clear the side trim. Skoda's 'simply clever' idea for RH drive vehicles 😒 The other option is to plug a 12 volt supply into the outlet to power up the central locking.

@Aakayamy don't forget to get the battery adaptation done (change from EFB to AGM) you possibly will be changing other parameters too. Have you actually checked the maximum output of the alternator?

Hello Hetty, treat yourself to a new rear wiper blade - I can recommend Viper or Bosch. Consider new front blades too if you are getting any streaking when they are operating.

This can sometimes throw up random faults due to low battery voltage - but get the fault codes read. Did the indicator light extinguish after you opened and closed the hood? If fault is still present, indication will come back after a certain distance being run.

I've been using Fuchs Titan C3, 5W30, VW504/507 for past 4 years.

I normally wait until ancillary circuits go back to sleep - although I have worked out a reasonable correlation between the two states over a series of tests. A little like understanding the difference in expected level when dipping oil hot or cold.

My Octavia is MY16, yes, it has battery management and regenerative charging. I don't believe that it actually 'promptly discharges' the battery once it has been fully charged - I accept that the management system will hold off charging until there is reserve capacity for regenerative charging - in the interim, the battery has been cycled to full capacity, which is better for extending battery life. This approach seems to work - I always use stop/start unless stop is estimated less than 5-10 seconds, generally run only short commute trips and Moll EFB battery is 7 years old.

I believe that you will need to monitor alternator output over a reasonable period of running, under varying driving conditions. There may be an app available for this - I recall seeing a previous poster who did this.

I'm afraid that I have to disagree with you regarding 'smart' alternators and short runs @J.R. - I do mostly short runs for my commute to work and the battery regularly displays low voltages on test before I recharge it - yes the battery is 7 years old, but it consistently tests as 'good battery' after charging - and holds charge over static periods. Alternator output tests OK. Battery SOC recovers to normal levels when I do longer runs. Original alternator and battery were replaced under warranty in first year.

Rare but not unheard of for fuel station tanks to be miss-fuelled at tanker drop. I once fuelled at a remote place, seems that their tank was contaminated with water - it took about 50 miles for the problem to become obvious.

I think it is a wry comment on OP.

Hello @Aakayamy are you able to get a load or condition test on your battery? 12.22 VDC reading under your assumed mustimeter test conditions is probably ok - just a little undercharged, do you do a lot of relatively short runs? Do you know if the battery is the original one fitted? Be aware that a battery adaptation should be done if the battery is replaced.