Warrior193

Hello Staro, given the loss of power, then dead, I think the best you could hope for is bent valves - unlikely to be fixed for £500 inc. labour. If the cambelt is intact, presumably the belt tensioner failed? Did any engine warning lights come on when you started to lose power? You could try using the fuel pump to drain the tank by disconnecting the feed at the fuel rack.

I agree, I've not looked at other WGs - but I would have expected that linkage to have a clevis and pin type connection for OE.

I'm inclined to believe that adjusting the sensitivity of the front radar will also make it less liable to 'ghost' activations - the visual warning and the AEB are two elements of the same system.

@Radiogaga is the coolant level in the expansion tank falling?

Hello @Doofy No longer the five years that Skoda UK were quoting up to around July this year. Now in line with VAG recommendations. You should be able to see latest recommendation on cambelt threads.

It does sound as if your system is overly sensitive - have you tried adjusting the sensitivity as Surrey John suggested?

Re. time period for sulphation - my understanding is that this process is not instant, but takes some time to occur - so the discharge / recondition cycle should not do any harm. Care needs to be taken that the discharge rate is not so high that it causes buckling of the plates though.

Hello @bromley - I say "ABS intervention" because, when the AEB system kicks in, it applies the brakes in full ABS mode - you feel and hear the brakes rapidly applying and releasing. Fortunately, on the rare occasions mine has kicked in, it has been very brief - and there was, almost without exception, a visible explanation for it. I have never experienced a 'full AEB stop' as you describe.

An important point, as @Rooted has touched on, to keep in mind is that engine oil is not simply for lubrication of moving parts - it also plays a critical role in the cooling system of the engine. Keeping the level within the correct range is important.

I think these locks use similar type pins in the cylinder though - just aligned differently.

It's a great idea to get into the habit of doing regular checks - maybe once a week for a start, then perhaps monthly when you've noted a pattern for your vehicle - Oil and coolant levels, tyre pressures, washer fluid. Get yourself a bit of kit, not much really required - good tyre pressure gauge and 1/2 litre bottle of correct grade oil.

Hello bromley, I have very occasionally had ABS intervention from the front assist on my Mk3 - all but one occasion was where I was clearing an obstruction on my left front and the radar thought there wasn't enough space (there was, just) Only on one occasion was there no obvious trigger visible - I put that one down to something blowing across the road. On none of these ABS interventions did the vehicle brake to a full stop - less than 1/2 second approx.

Hello Mr RS, what lubricant did you squirt into the lock cylinder? The only lubricant that should ever be used in locks is fine powdered graphite.

To be fair though, assuming the old lock was original, it did last more than 16 years - that doesn't really suggest a serious design flaw to me.

@JohnTs ....... And the fault was........?

They may have been making a somewhat mangled reference to the possibility of damage to a sticking lock solenoid, but unlikely.

Hello Igol, when you first noticed a problem, were the gears 'crunching' as you attempted to engage them - Do they now? As you push the gear lever into 1st, does the lever appear to move full-travel? I suspect clutch failure.

@meltemi From what I have read on other sections, be very cautious of any tool that allows 'one touch' changes from a menu - one wrong button press could end up making unintended changes that may be difficult and expensive to reverse. "Coding" involves making changes to the way the vehicles systems operate, and is where you really need to load a backup before doing anything. It could be something as simple as adapting-in a replacement battery - or something much more intrusive.

^^^^ agree with above - I personally have a preference for a slight tendency to oversteer, I think it is easier to correct - unless you completely overcook it and swap ends.

Hello @Zuglie is the auxiliary drive belt ok? Have you got the correct (MPI) description for the Fabia 3?

hello John, welcome to the forum. More detail needed - like where did that 'rebuilt' turbo come from?

That's a surprising amount of pad left after 21 years!

Hello @hanf, ask your servicing garage to check for the updated VAG recommendation for cambelt service life.

Correction, the indirect TPMS works off data from the ABS system - it flags when there is a certain measured difference between rotational speeds of the wheels, not from rolling resistance.

In that case, no battery adaptation required. I'd suggest trawling through the Mk2 section for advice on the radio code though.