Warrior193

@Shubh was it merely an adjustment required to the radar sensor - or had there been some damage to the mountings?

I'd suspect that the play in the right CV joint will be found to be the culprit. In my experience, the body of the CV joint is an integral part of the drive shaft. Also in past experience - although not recent - it was common, particularly for an out of balance front wheel, for a vibration to manifest at a fairly specific rotation speed - probably a harmonic frequency.

Possibly worn valve stem seals/guides?

Do your water and oil temperature readings look OK?

Even if the old nut had been reused (inadvisable as it appears to be a 'nylock' type) I'd expect to see corrosion disturbance on the points. To me, that joint boot looks like it has split.

I have to say that joint certainly doesn't look as if it has been disturbed recently.

See what the inspection throws up, do you have access to a mechanic / garage you trust? One quick test you could do to check for wear in the drive-shaft CV joints is to drive round a circle in both directions at full lock and listen for any knocking noises.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Normally I'd suggest wheel balance issues for this, but from your further description, possibly a drive shaft problem or engine mounts. Your engine should not sound as if it is 'struggling' in 6th gear at 100Km/hr - do you actually mean you think it's over-revving? - at that speed, revs should be well under red line and engine should feel and sound fine. SWMBO's 1.0 Fabia always feels to me like it needs to be in a lower gear, especially below 50-60MPH.

@PetrolDave or @ApertureS can you give a full list of the features that use data from the A5 camera - and (depending on options) how many different windscreen-mounted cameras were used on MY16 vehicles?

I'd suggest waiting until the new, fully-charged battery is fitted, then resetting all fault codes and taking things from there. All sorts of (often spurious) fault codes can be common with a faulty / discharged battery.

Hello, welcome to the forum. My money is on there being an airlock in the cooling system. You may be able to clear it with patience while keeping an eye on (and topping up) the expansion tank. I'm not sure if it applies to your model - but my understanding is that there is a VCDS procedure to purge air from the cooling system after drain and refill - do you know if this was carried out?

What you need is a long 'breaker bar' with correct size socket for loosening tight wheel bolts - which may have been previously tightened way too much by gorilla with a hammer-gun. Ideally, the bolts require to be refitted at correct torque, but this can be reasonably estimated with a little experience. It's good practice to have a 'feel' for the correct wheel bolt torque - it's a real pain to find that you can't replace a flat at the roadside because some gorilla tyre fitter has wound the hammer-gun to max!

Hello, it's likely that the ABS sensor or the connecting lead has been damaged, the wheel will need to be removed to check it.

Hello, see the attached image below for the automatic idle stop button - if your new vehicle doesn't have this button somewhere on the instrument panel, it's probably not a micro-hybrid - in which case, you don't need to carry out any adaptation when fitting a replacement battery and you don't require an EFB or AGM type.

I think a faulty steering wheel lock is unlikely to be the cause. I'm wondering if your start button has failed - I have see recent posts where this turned out to be the cause. Does the instrument panel light up when you attempt to start?

Hello Zaander, welcome to the forum. My understanding is that the fob sensor is in or around the engine start button - it may be incorporated in the button. I recall that the procedure for activating the immobiliser with a dead key fob battery is to place the fob directly against the start button. The 'depress brake pedal' issue will probably be a separate problem.

Welcome to the forum cobber. Battery adaptation (coding) depends on whether or not your new vehicle is fitted with micro-hybrid energy recuperation - does it have automatic idle stop (stop-start)?

Good evening BB, welcome to the forum. I can remember Skoda's when they first started arriving in NZ in the early 70s - they had many features fitted as standard which were not available or only as expensive options on most makes.

Most likely explanation for the reference to 'automatic gearbox' oil would be that North American (and possibly Australian) versions are fitted with a TC automatic gearbox.

The alarm tone in your first clip is the audio alert that the handbrake is on, there should also be a visual warning flashed up somewhere on the screen.

Yes, that is correct. There was another posting a while ago, where someone spotted that the design of the level probes had been changed - possibly in response to issues with previous type.

Good morning, welcome to the forum. The Stop Start fault is probably a red herring - you will need to get the fault codes read from the cars diagnostic port. The stop start report will almost certainly be a consequence of some error in engine operation.

It's a real pity that Skoda don't offer the Webasto auxiliary heater as an option in UK. I wanted one when I was ordering the Octavia, but was advised only available on Scandinavian orders. 😒

Well, the question was 'character' - didn't specify whether good or bad 🤣

For that menu, AGM makes more sense than the old term 'fleece' and would be correct. I've not seen the EFB+ before - anyone know what the difference is?