Warrior193

An important point, as @Rooted has touched on, to keep in mind is that engine oil is not simply for lubrication of moving parts - it also plays a critical role in the cooling system of the engine. Keeping the level within the correct range is important.

I think these locks use similar type pins in the cylinder though - just aligned differently.

It's a great idea to get into the habit of doing regular checks - maybe once a week for a start, then perhaps monthly when you've noted a pattern for your vehicle - Oil and coolant levels, tyre pressures, washer fluid. Get yourself a bit of kit, not much really required - good tyre pressure gauge and 1/2 litre bottle of correct grade oil.

Hello bromley, I have very occasionally had ABS intervention from the front assist on my Mk3 - all but one occasion was where I was clearing an obstruction on my left front and the radar thought there wasn't enough space (there was, just) Only on one occasion was there no obvious trigger visible - I put that one down to something blowing across the road. On none of these ABS interventions did the vehicle brake to a full stop - less than 1/2 second approx.

Hello Mr RS, what lubricant did you squirt into the lock cylinder? The only lubricant that should ever be used in locks is fine powdered graphite.

To be fair though, assuming the old lock was original, it did last more than 16 years - that doesn't really suggest a serious design flaw to me.

@JohnTs ....... And the fault was........?

They may have been making a somewhat mangled reference to the possibility of damage to a sticking lock solenoid, but unlikely.

Hello Igol, when you first noticed a problem, were the gears 'crunching' as you attempted to engage them - Do they now? As you push the gear lever into 1st, does the lever appear to move full-travel? I suspect clutch failure.

@meltemi From what I have read on other sections, be very cautious of any tool that allows 'one touch' changes from a menu - one wrong button press could end up making unintended changes that may be difficult and expensive to reverse. "Coding" involves making changes to the way the vehicles systems operate, and is where you really need to load a backup before doing anything. It could be something as simple as adapting-in a replacement battery - or something much more intrusive.

^^^^ agree with above - I personally have a preference for a slight tendency to oversteer, I think it is easier to correct - unless you completely overcook it and swap ends.

Hello @Zuglie is the auxiliary drive belt ok? Have you got the correct (MPI) description for the Fabia 3?

hello John, welcome to the forum. More detail needed - like where did that 'rebuilt' turbo come from?

That's a surprising amount of pad left after 21 years!

Hello @hanf, ask your servicing garage to check for the updated VAG recommendation for cambelt service life.

Correction, the indirect TPMS works off data from the ABS system - it flags when there is a certain measured difference between rotational speeds of the wheels, not from rolling resistance.

In that case, no battery adaptation required. I'd suggest trawling through the Mk2 section for advice on the radio code though.

Depending on which model DSG gearbox you have, if the oil is coming from there, rather than the engine, you could have a major problem very quickly.

Not sure in regards to radio code. Mk3, MIB 1 or 2 doesn't. AFAIK, keys will not be affected. If your Scout has auto stop-Start, it is recommended to have any replacement battery adapted to the vehicle, VCDS (or similar) required for this coding - there is a location map on this forum for members who can do this for beer tokens. New battery really should be adapted, even if replacement is same capacity and type.

Plus the term 'Has to go' £20K

Hello SS, very likely that the only fault is the dead battery. See what you get once it's charged - but I'd strongly suggest getting the battery tested, 10.5 volts is completely discharged ! - for it to drop that much in less than 14 days can mean only one of two things - something didn't shut down correctly - or the battery is faulty.

The position of the drive belt would suggest engine sump rather than gearbox casing to me, but difficult to tell with those images. Is the engine oil level dropping? What gearbox do you have? As @andrehj suggests, get the area cleaned up and have a close look around everything.

Disappointing that your mechanic did not advise of the condition of the connector at the time.

From a quick read on Google, lithium battery efficiency can be as low as 80% - up to a max. of over 95% - do you use battery or vehicle pre-heating - or are they available only on full BEVs? Do you actually measure the units consumed during charging - or are you assuming max. current for full charge period?

Hello Leif, welcome to the forum. As far as I know, the DRLs do not have an option to turn off at the switch - they do switch over when the headlights are lit on my Mk3 Octavia. I'm surprised that your test requires them to be switched off ! Aren't yours required to be on at all times?