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Warrior193

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Everything posted by Warrior193

  1. @Alex707070 Have you had the failed clutch inspected by an independent engineer yet?
  2. Airlock is a possibility after the previous work on the water pump, suggest this to them and request they recheck for leak and refill the system using the correct method. Give them notice that if this does not fix the problem, you will reject.
  3. It rather sounds as if this vehicle has had a history of coolant issues. Give them 1 chance to repair the leak, on the clear proviso that if they fail to fix it to your complete satisfaction, you reserve the right to reject for full refund.
  4. I'd suggest that the workshop should not have released the vehicle with the interior door release inoperative - I believe that would be an immediate MOT fail, making the vehicle unroadworthy.
  5. I think the grooves in the plunger will be oil galleries.
  6. The inspection really should have spotted those historic faults - was a reader plugged into the OBD port during the inspection?
  7. I'd still strongly suggest getting it properly load tested - unless you really want to try the 'waiting for breakdown van' experience.
  8. Ones I have seen appear to adjust the link between the bourdon tube and the needle gearing.
  9. I'd suggest having the battery tested after being charged - failing batteries can have a nasty habit of suddenly letting you down - the law of Sod will often dictate that failure to be in the most inconvenient place!
  10. Pricing is other way round - AGM is more expensive than EFB - AGM should have superior performance and life.
  11. Unfortunately, a stud conversion kit won't help OP in this particular case as the stud still requires a viable thread in the hub.
  12. In which case it is possible that your calliper is not sliding freely on the rods - putting most of the braking effort onto one side of the disc and distorting it.
  13. I think there may be references on the forum when members have overridden the sensor to allow control modules enter sleep mode while the hood is open. I haven't had occasion (yet) to get access to check that sensor - I bet that's put the hex on mine now!
  14. There is a hood position sensor or switch located on or near the lower (body) latch. Do your windscreen wipers still work?
  15. Difficult to check, but check that both inner and outer pistons are free to move in the caliper.
  16. They make the job so much easier - a pair spaced one stud apart is best if the wheel has a considerable amount of offset.
  17. Unfortunately, what almost certainly happened was the 1st bolt cross-threaded when you used the impact wrench on it and I'm not sure I'd trust a helicoil repair on the damaged thread - probably the best fix would be to replace the damaged hub. Also get yourself a pair of the tyre positioning pins for future use.
  18. Try gently pushing the flap while pressing the unlock button - it's not uncommon for the flap lock servo to get a little sticky.
  19. A simpler fix would be to affix a small picket to offside rear of trailer.
  20. As far as I know, no radio code required - the infotainment system is locked to the vehicle monitoring system provided it remains with the vehicle to which it was installed.
  21. 12 deg.C difference might not be especially significant, but still worth checking.
  22. I'm not sure if the Mk2 is the same as the Mk3 - but the clutch and brakes may share the same master cylinder, which would explain your issue. On the Mk3, the clutch fluid take-off is higher than the brake, which could introduce air into the clutch cylinder if the level was permitted to drop too low while bleeding the brakes.
  23. Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest having the rear hatch issue addressed first - I suspect the vehicle is detecting that the rear hatch is remaining open - do the trunk lights stay on?
  24. To check if the brakes are binding, try gently placing your hand on each of the wheel hubs after a reasonable run - any significant difference in temperature in a hub would indicate that brake may not be releasing fully.
  25. There will be no adverse implications should you decide to have future servicing work carried out by an independent garage - make sure they possess the correct tools, skills and knowledge and they have access to VAG systems to maintain the electronic service records. There are a number of ex VAG mechanics outside the stealer network.

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