Warrior193

You may have a good battery there; a lot can depend on how it is used - I would suggest getting it properly tested, if still good, keep it until you start to get some early signs of reduced performance (EG. stop-start frequently inhibited)

Does your car have stop-start? Yuasa HSB013 does not appear to be EFB or AGM - you may have fitted wrong type of battery.

You did well at only 2 minutes Boxer - my damper took me almost 20 minutes just to get it back together. Grrrrr!

I agree, my Octavia has only 25K on it at 7 years! Is yours a TDI?

Hi, welcome to the forum. Is yours a TDI? - Water pump replacement is not required if engine is TSI, as the pump is not affected by cambelt replacement. NB. cambelt replacement is not required until 5 years at earliest (according to Skoda) I had mine replaced at 6 years - old belt & tensioner were still almost 'as new' when I inspected them carefully. Expect around £450-£500 for cambelt change only.

Hello Dave, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, the long-term driving data is probably unrecoverable. Re. coding the battery, this is definitely required as you have changed from EFB to AGM - which has a slightly higher charging voltage, and it also sounds as if the Amp-hours capacity is now larger than the old battery.

I'm pretty sure cylinder 1 will be the one nearest the camshaft-drive end of the engine.

+ 1 for just driving off gently as soon as the engine has started.

What! - you mean these cells don't come from the Skoda factory?🤣

Hi Yop, not experienced the VW/Skoda version, but have driven a few vehicles with electronic hand brakes - familiarise yourself with all controls, including HB operation, somewhere safe before heading out onto the road.

+ Keep a spare in your man bag in case the fob fails while the vehicle is locked. SWMBOs Fabia did that.

I vote cry.

Hi, there was probably some issue with that car - pretty sure the engine shouldn't have cut out at that speed. I have seen reports of some DSGs cutting out at roundabouts, etc. but not at that sort of speed - can end up being a little tricky if you lose vacuum for the power-assisted brakes! When the engine cut out, had you just lifted your foot right off the accelerator pedal?

Hello Richard, welcome to the forum. Oil required is VW 502 / 505, you can use either 5w-30 or 5W-40 grade, I suggest 5W-30.

Hi Hetty, is this a TDI? If so, it may be trying to do a DPF regen.

Well done, what did it turn out to be?

Any luck in getting spark back?

How difficult is it to remove the fuel tank? with the amount of crud collecting in that new filter, perhaps a thorough wash out and treatment (A la Rob's Quatro in NZ) would be beneficial.

Perhaps set a little too low - even for fogs? Yellow is supposed to be better for reduced back-reflection, so probably ideal for use. By low, I mean the beam angle.

I think you should make a complaint to the MD - and look for a better provider.

All pins and sockets - the item has individual tools for them - sort of like the little 4-way tool for tyre valve servicing.

From my recollection, back in the days I towed, there is actually a special hand tool available to clean both male and female trailer connector contacts. Perhaps a useful addition to toolbox?

For a 12-volt system, using a voltmeter, battery voltage should be around 10 volts DC when engine is cranking - voltage should not drop below 9 volts. This is for a fully charged battery. Voltage should recover to more than 12 volts immediately engine stops cranking. Depending on type, a battery test meter will often give pass, charge battery or replace rating, with possibly a percentage reading. For a healthy battery, voltage should be not less than12 volts (12.2 VDC or greater) after battery has been sitting for a day.

Especially the start-drop test if your tester has that function.

^^^ this, plus, if you have someone to assist, keep the meter leads on the battery terminals while assistant cranks the engine. This will give a good indication of battery condition.