Warrior193

There is usually a date stamp into the top face of the negative terminal, format is WWYY. Stamp matching production year would indicate battery is probably original.

I'm not familiar with this idea of deleting the oil level dipstick - is there an electronic 'button press' to check oil level now - or are you supposed to wait until the Impending Doom light flashes up?

Hello, welcome to the forum. That looks like a intermittent electrical connection, either the main connections, or behind the instrument panel. Has the battery been properly tested?

That almost certainly indicates a clutch position sensor fault - the vehicle should always require the clutch pedal to be depressed before allowing engine start. A message should appear on instrument cluster if clutch pedal is up and start should be inhibited. From past references on this and other forums, clutch inhibit switch/sensor has been fitted to Skodas since at least 2010.

Not particularly likely, AFAIK, Eco mode simply lowers change-up point of gearbox (lower revs) and limits throttle response. Interrupted DPF regens and shorter trip distances are more likely to be the cause - although it sounds like your issue of increasing oil level may not be as much as you originally thought, and may actually just be a oversensitive high level sensor.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Has the battery failed, have you tested battery voltage or checked for loose battery terminal?

Hello, welcome to the forum. The only 6M gearbox version of the Fabia I am aware of is the Mk3 1.0TSI 110PS. The 1.0TSI 95PS is a 5-speed - both are 3 cylinder engines. Not sure if the earlier 1.2TSIs also came with an M6 gearbox, but I don't think so.

Assuming the meter used is accurate, dropping to below 8.0 volts on start is a confirmation your battery is failing, very likely a decent battery test meter will show high internal resistance along with seriously reduced capacity. If replacing battery, ensure the new one is correctly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM - either OBD (with necessary functions) or VCDS will be able to do adaptation.

Easy to tell the difference between belts - timing belt has toothed segments on underside; Aux belt has multiple Vs.

I would not think that to be likely.

Mine was - from AGM to a Moll EFB, along with the alternator.

According to VAG website, your engine is EA288, DFGA. All images I see have the cam belt covered. A strong probability that your belt cover was not refitted during the recent replacement - very suspicious if they didn't mention its absence during the work.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm pretty certain there should always be a cam belt cover fitted. Can you post your engine code (can be found as 3 or 4 letters at start of engine number on V5 doc) The mention of replacing cam belt at the same time as the water pump was changed suggests a TDI - is that right?

Do both dry and wet compression tests - this will help to narrow down where possible problem lies.

What was the reason for vehicle not being recovered to home address?

The 'prongs' in the expansion bottle refer to the coolant level sensor - low coolant warning on instrument panel would be correct if level is lower than minimum mark. When was the last time you checked the coolant level?

Check for voltage with meter at the lamp holder contact, if correct voltage present, gently tap bulb (if filament type) while testing for continuity.

There are much better release fluids available - Plus Gas is one of them. WD40 is primarily a lubricant.

Can you explain how the battery was tested? Was the battery fully charged before being load tested at a high rate discharge? Alternatively, checking battery voltage with a DMM while cranking the engine can give some useful idea of condition.

A faulty water pump can cause overheating - I cannot see any way it could cause engine to run too cold.

I wouldn't think you'd normally be able to hold a pipe for more than a second at 90C.

AFAIK, brake fluid level that low should be flagging a warning on the instrument cluster. Can you see a sensor on the reservoir?

I can't advise on the 1.0 95PS TSI - but SWMBOs 110PS Fabia pulls well and comes with the 6M gearbox.

From that indicated 127 f from the OBD, it does seem that the engine is running cold - unless the sensors are faulty and sending low readings to the ECU. Are you able to take a temperature reading of cylinder head with (say) an IR thermometer? If head temperature is broadly similar to the one from the OBD, the only way I can see engine temperatures remaining as low as indicated is the thermostats remaining open all the time (or the cooling fans running constantly) - even then, the engine should eventually reach normal temperature.

Sorry to hear of your write-off. I don't see any reference to service history in the description. Ask for print out of electronic history, including DSG services. Be aware of common problem with Pan roof water leaks.