Warrior193

Simple law of physics - revving engine to limiter unnecessarily in neutral, then expecting all those high speed reciprocating parts to slow down instantly, is unrealistic (and completely pointless)

Unless the battery was fully charged before the test, <80% capacity can be considered completely normal given the way the alternator smart charge controller operates - particularly if the vehicle often does short trips. A resting figure of 12.2 volts on a EFB equates to approx. 65% charged - again, normal, taking into account the smart charging system. Unlikely that one cell is failing at that reported resting voltage. Suggest a full charge, then a good load test to check battery condition.

Warranty on battery can depend on reason for failure - I had battery and alternator replaced under warranty in the first year of ownership of my Octavia - but yours, if it is failing, would probably be considered normal wear and tear. There was also an issue with a faulty batch of Moll EFBs a few years back, but I think that was before 2020. Have you tried running down the battery voltage a little, then rechecking the alternator voltage output at the battery terminals?

Is this a hybrid or straight ICE? I have seen other postings where the Mk IV hybrid 12volt battery was not being charged correctly. If vehicle is straight ICE, the smart alternator control can often show a lower charging voltage - relying on energy recuperation to fully charge. A search on the forum may give you some information on charging rate. A load test will confirm battery condition.

Hello Mike, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that there is a limiter that restricts RPM to a lower level while vehicle is in neutral gear?

Hello Triff, I can suggest taking a look at the Autophix OM126P.

More complicated, yes - but there are obvious benefits in quicker engine warmup - reduced wear and emissions and increased economy.

Can you post your engine code ID letters? This is the 3 or 4 letter code in front of the engine number and can be found on your V5 document. I assume your engine is EA888 G3, is that correct?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Any interest in the Brand is good enough - the only ones qualifying for the 'up against the wall' treatment are those who get abusive 😁

That coolant leak sounds like being from the Charge Cooler unit.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is that radio unit Skoda original equipment? Edited, I missed seeing the logo on the label.

I tend to live with it unless targeted by flying muck spreaders. I avoid automated car washes but will give the Octavia a hose-down, then a bucket wash, pacing myself, maybe three times a year.

If you do a parts number search, it may tell you in the description. Is your tank marked with anything other than the coolant spec - Eg. G13? If your EV does have a silica insert, it would most likely be the later type, which is reported to be a tubular plastic capsule - which has not been reported to suffer from the same problem as the earlier Mit Silicat 'teabag'. If this the case, it is likely to be visible when the EV cap is removed.

I finally found a VAG data sheet that gives a figure of 1.6 bar (160kpa) relative boost for the 1.0TSI 110PS. Still searching for turbo details, but as the charge pressure is controlled by an electronic bypass flap, it suggests to me that the turbo vanes aren't variable.

I was hoping that someone here had experienced this fault and found an easy/cheap fix for it.

Update, cleared the P003A fault code and took it out for a hot run (not saying where, Officer 😇) EPC and MIL light stayed off on a full-throttle run, taking it to the red line through the gears for 17 miles after getting oil up to 90*. Then took it up a hill, redlining in 2nd - ditto. Turned-off into a side-turning for return home and the EPC lit up as I was doing 3-point turn! - no MIL light. Cleared fault and drove a mile towards home, EPC came up again when I did a hard accelerate in 2nd. A second, slower run a little later gave real time monitoring boost pressure of 220kpa absolute on hard throttle in lower gears (approx. 99kpa static, therefore about 1.2 bar boost) can anyone tell if this figure is in the ballpark? VAG data for the CHZC appears to imply that the turbo is not variable-vane type - can anyone confirm this is correct?

Scan tool is Autophix OM126P. Can do live data. 1 x DTC logged (twice) is P003A - turbocharger boost control A position exceeded learning limit. No other DTCs logged. I haven't cleared the fault yet, as it is in for a diagnostic check on Friday. No recent work under hood, apart from usual oil and fluid checks since oil service last June. Battery is original EFB and standing voltage is a little over 70% (12.35V) vehicle has not done much running since Christmas - although I wouldn't expect the smart alternator to maintain charge level much higher than it is.

2018 Fabia 1.0 TSI 110PS, 24K miles. Wife came home this afternoon and reported amber EPC light on, which resets when engine is shut down then restarted. Went out to check, EPC lights up on switch-on, extinguishes on engine start - so far, so good; started engine, no warning light but EPC warning lit up immediately when engine throttled-up in neutral, light resets if engine shut down then restarted. Took it for a test drive, MIL and EPC lights both came up straight away, engine appears to be running completely normally, no misfires. I have not plugged in OBD reader for DTCs yet - will do that tomorrow if weather permits. Car is booked in for diagnostic on Friday, I'm thinking faulty MAF sensor might be a possibility - but does anyone have thoughts on possible causes?

OP might have been very very lucky in avoiding valve damage.

I'm wondering if that's a misprint - the length of the hatch trunk is shown as being 34mm longer than the combi.

A BEM code is not necessary, a new serial number can be created by simply changing the last digit of the original number. This will serve to inform the BCM the battery has been replaced and clear any logged battery defects that may be limiting alternator charging rate.

Perhaps it was not necessary to remove the crankshaft sprocket - does the manual specify that the sprocket needs to be removed to replace the cam chain?

The charcoal filter version type do look pretty dark when new. For the price of a new, OEM cabin filter, I cannot see any worth in cleaning an old one.

Hello, welcome to the forum. If you have Williams car products available in Oz, I can recommend their screen wash, either concentrated or premix.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Assuming your profile details are correct, you have a non-ACT engine - that quoted price would be too high even if you had the much more complicated ACT engine. Strongly suggest checking with an independent specialist - or at least a comparison quote from a different Skoda garage. What engine (size and fuel) do you have?