Warrior193

I wouldn't buy the 'It's NOS from 2015' story if that's what they say - even if they did try it, did they charge you 2015 price? 😆

I'd challenge your garage if they charged you for an air filter change that clearly was not carried out. Is this an official Skoda garage? At the very least, I'd be looking for a trusted independent specialist for any further work.

Practically impossible to tell visually, were you supplied with an itemised invoice for the work? Other than the non-replacement of the air filter, do you have a reason to suspect it wasn't? I had my belt changed at 6 years, although at less than 1/2 your mileage - this was when Skoda UK were still stating replacement at 5 years - the belt and tensioner looked in practically new condition. Apart from the potential fraud, there is no need for particular concern, Skoda UK are now quoting timing belt as 'lifetime' with (I think) replacement at mileage well in excess of 100K miles.

@WorkHorse what was the cause of your damage, collision?

That is what VAG say, although I believe it's too long when you consider how many cubic metres of quite polluted air will be drawn through it in that time. If TSI, do you know if the spark plugs were replaced at 4 years/40k ?

VAG do have what I believe to be an unrealistically long air filter change interval - I made a post quite a few years ago regarding this. I'll need to check what VAG schedule is, but I consider it to be too long.

Is that for the air - or oil filter?

The only sign of oil leakage I can see is around the sump drain plug, the corrosion bubbling visible looks to be surface only, beneath the nominal paint cover and would be nowhere near perforation. The plug leakage could be caused by something as simple as the original seal and plug being reused on a service - or incorrect torquing of the drain plug. If the drain plug threaded insert has been damaged during a service, this might require sump replacement if the leakage is significant.

Well, that appears to be more promising, appreciate it if you keep this updated on final outcome.

Hello, welcome to the forum. There looks to be two cracks that I can see - the obvious one on the mounting eyebolt section, but is there another in the angle where the mount meets the block? I'd say that engine block has received a seriously hard knock and suggest rejection. I recall a taxi driver friend of my father buying a replacement engine, externally it appeared completely unmarked, but turned out to be scrap as internal castings had been shattered by an impact on the crank pully.

I believe there may be some misunderstanding in translation - Brand / manufacturer code is totally unimportant. Fleece/EFB, battery capacity and an alteration to the last digit of the existing battery serial number is the ONLY relevant data when replacing the battery.

Which leads me to think, given the OPs description of the circumstances of the original failure, that the clutch diaphragm failed suddenly - if this was proved to be the case, this would (could) be classed as a mechanical failure - not driver abuse, and perhaps should be covered by the warranty. The subsequent damage to the clutch lining and flywheel caused by the extremely ill advised recommendation by the contracted warranty recovery agent would be, I consider, be a strong case for recovery of, at the very least, a significant part of the damages.

If I understand your question correctly, just leave the vendors code as it was/is.

The actual manufacturers code of the battery is not critical, the only critical information when adapting a new battery to the BCM is type (AGM (fleece) or EFB) capacity (AH) and registering the change by altering the last digit of the existing battery serial number.

I'd suggest looking at sensors in engine air intake as a possibility of being affected by rain - although they'd be downstream of the filter. Has the air filter ever been replaced?

Great that the fix was a simple one - was this a faulty throttle pedal sender unit? The throttle operation on these vehicles is 'Fly by Wire' - there being no actual mechanical connection between the pedal and engine.

Agree that clutch lining is excluded - clearly because this part can be subjected to user abuse - however, a mechanical fault, such as fracturing of the clutch diaphragm, could reasonably be considered to be covered - especially given the schemes contracted recovery operator insisted that the vehicle be driven to the workshop instead of being towed.

Op stated that vehicle was purchased as 'Approved Used' last August and is presumably still in warranty.

Not if the dealership was acting in bad faith in attempting to avoid a valid warranty claim.

On the other hand, a forensic inspection of the diaphragm might indicate a fracture, causing loss of clamping force - if this was found to be the case, it could be valid ground for a warranty claim. Retain the component shown in image 2 if you decide to do this.

Those images will be after the clutch failed, it would not be possible to assess its condition prior to failure.

I agree that flange angle does look odd.

Appears to have been incorrect torque at factory, my MY16 Octavia failed this way last June, but injector rail bolts had loosened, causing the O-ring to fail. Other sufferers of this fault have had bolts snap. There is a safety recall in the US for this build fault - but UK vehicle safety authorities were not interested!

The official VW website is a complete nightmare - it is quite apparent that they don't want oiks like me dialling up prices for VAG-branded parts, they want Vin or reg numbers! However, several OEM parts suppliers are much simpler - complete clutch kits retail from £204 to £320, the flywheel (I assume DMF) comes in at around £300.

That price for parts alone sounds completely outrageous, I'm off to do some searching.