Alasdair1

So far no ulez in Inverness but there is in aberdeen. He works for coop and seems to be getting offers to travel to other stores as supervisor when they need extra staff or during refit. Hes got seven weeks nightshift coming up but its fairly local. Most he will be travelling is around 100 miles a day.

I agree with the 1.9tdi. Have had three now and no real probs at all plus a bit easier to work on than the 1.6tdi. Might be a problem finding one with lowish mileage and good condition as I think your right with upto 2010. Have read a few reports re 1.6 injector issues but so far my 1.6tdi has been fine. DPF is another thing but as long as he takes car out for decent runs etc should be ok. Will look for elegance/LandK spec and see what I can find. Hes happy with the Fabia but wants something more modern/luxury etc. I reckon he should get something a bit larger as he is going to be travelling a bit with his work and I would prefer him driving something a bit heavier and safer. I had proper volvos for years but not sure what there like now. His fabia has been great. Its only done about 70k and so far a new battery,wheel bearing and I did the clutch as it totalled itself. Thanks for the replies Alasdair

Hi there Sons thinking of getting a newer car. He has at moment Fabia MK1 1.2 06 plate but wants something newer and a bit more power. Hes 19 so insurance for VRS etc may be too high. I have been trying to persuade him to get an Octavia as its bigger and probably safer but not sure which engine etc is most reliable these days. I have had the 1.9tdi pd in an octavia/fabia and a seat which have never given me any bother at all but I think the 1.9tdi was last used in 2010. At moment have the 1.6tdi octavia 12 plate and so far no problems. Are there any to avoid re problems with dpf etc. As I generally do my own work also looking for the easiest to work on. Not sure if he should go for diesel or petrol either. Any help and advice welcome. Alasdair

Tried the link but access denied. If its from cold then maybe heater plugs failed. Mine had two that had gone and when starting from cold did sound lumpy/knocking but went when engine warm. Might be worth getting it scanned for fault codes etc. They are as you said amazing engines. Loads of torque and when you want it loads of power and if its the PD engine pretty bomb proof and no DPF Alasdair

The mechanism under gear stick is plastic if I remember correctly. It can wear out over time. If you can still change gear I would leave it unless it becomes a problem. Next service perhaps mention it and have garage have a look. I think you can get a repair kit for the gear selector an. It may be as simple as replacing ends of cables. The adjusting of cables is very easy. You lock gearstick in neutral with 5mm pin and then undo cable ends at gearbox. lock gear selector tower and re attach cable ends. It took me about 10 mins. As said on my sons its the spring that has broken but as he can still change gear I left it alone for the minute Alasdair

If the timing is out by a notch or two it will be down on power. I would not run car until the timing has been checked and the problem with belt has been addressed. If its slightly out it probably won't cause any damage to valves etc but if the belt jumps a few more notches then you could be back to square one. Alasdair

Sons fabia is similar. Theres a spring under gearstick cover that has broken on his. Gearstick seems wobbly and doesnt; return to centre. The cover just clips in place and can be lifted to check that nothing has worn/broken. It could also be that the cable selector ends at gearbox have moved. You can reset cables by inserting I think 5mm drill bit under Gstick and then lock gear selector on gearbox and undo cable asembly and refit. I used this

Found this guide on here re changing belt etc. Might be of some help especially the tensioner and locking pins etc Alasdair

Glad you got it sorted. Why they put the slave cylinder a position when it leaks it kills the clutch I don't know. Reckon you got a good deal from the garage plus replacing DMF is the way to go. Might as well when Gbox is out etc.

Meant to add is it a new tensioner etc as well.

Pulled this from the Gates catalogue. Its for a 1.9 sdi ASY engine upto 2007. Has the mechanic got the belt fitted correctly and has the tensioner been fitted properly. Is it a new belt and the correct one if so. Alasdair.

I reckon they are probably obsolete/not available as car is 20 years old plus. Might be worth seeing if you can get a set from scrapyard in better condition. Alasdair

If the battery/starter motor was on its way out I doubt leaving it a few secs would make any difference. Might be a poor earth or corosion on the starter connections. Alasdair

Looks ok to me re tension but did he use the tools for locking up drive sprocketstiming when fitting it. It might be 1 tooth out. Alasdair

Glad there getting to the bottom of it hopefully. I would perhaps replace ignition switch anyway as you said it continued to run when key was removed. Does sound like something is stuck/worn in there. If the voltage of the battery is too low it can cause random problems with electrics/electronics but the switch is either on or off and shouldn't be affected by low voltage. Alasdair

Was actually thinking on driving lights instead of fog as the headlights on his arent the best. Alasdair

I would say the ignition switch has gone if it continued to run once key removed. I am surprised the imobilser didn't come on ? If the switch is stuck in pre ignition mode then that could flatten battery if left for a while. I would presonally disconnect battery and put on charge or jump it and see if the switch works plus central locking etc. I would also keep the battery disconected until you discover why it continued to run. Last thing you want is for the car to start itself. Alasdair

Not sure if it normally makes a noise re HPFP sensor/valve. Might be worth changing it to see if it makes a difference depending on the cost of a new one. Alasadair

Not the same car but my 1.9tdi whistled away like yours and randomly went into limp mode. Actuator for turbo was sticking. Freed it off and it was fine since. Might be worth checking its moving freely and not jammed half in half out. Alasdair

Could be the new fuel pump isn't set up correctly or perhaps the fuel pressure regulator if it hasn't been changed

My sons MK1 has the spaces in bumper but no wiring. I was thinking of fitting them with an inline fuse and just an extra switch on dash to make it simple. Alasdair

Not sure think they are ABS . There may well be a recycle/symbol stamped into moulding. Alasdair

Glad its sorted and they just blanked off the LED. Years ago I did a similar thing on an old volvo re airbags, I bypassed the led and connected it to the oil light so it came on with ignition and went off when engine running. Alasdair

I think its possible to check DMF throuh starter motor hole but as theres no vibration/noise its hopefully ok. Was the noise there all the time or only when you changed gear? If it happend when changing gear it could be a sticking release bearing? or perhaps a failing slave cylinder and what you were hearing was gears crunching slightly Hope its a one of or a simple fix. Alasdair

The DMF usually starts rattling away before it fails completely and you can get a judder when taking off. If it does fail it can be catastrophic and wreck gearbox etc but if it was done 5 years ago unless the car has done huge mileage per year I doubt it would be going again. Mines on 120,000 with original clutch and no noises from Gbox etc. I may be wrong but I can't see bumpy roads affecting it at all unless it was badly fitted and has become loose but as the sound has gone again I doubt it. I would monitor it and get it checked out by a reputable garage and see how it goes. Get them to check that all the Gbox to engine bolts etc aare tight. Hopefully it was perhaps something wrapped round a drive shaft that has cleared itself.