Alasdair1

Have a look at the tyres fitted. I found that Extra load tyres improved handling as well. The ones that were on my old Octavia were budget comfort tyres. The Extra load were slightly noisier but improved cornering and car felt more positive. Alasdair

I agree left my old Seat altea over winter and when I opened it early on this year it was covered in grey green mold. Its off the road and is a work car so wiped everything down/hoovered and then sprayed with diluted vinegar. Left in sun to dry out with all windows down and so far so good. Still smells a bit like a chip shop but smell is getting better and the mold has gone. Alasdair

Came across this company when looking for carpet. They do underlay 1.5m wide per metre. Another option would be scrapyard. https://www.carcarpets.co.uk/ Alasdair

You may have blown a fuse when removing coil packs etc. Not sure which one on yours but look at the ones near battery box as well. Alasdair

Yes the reservoir is both clutch and brakes. Its design from memory is that the clutch outlet is higher than brakes so if clutch leaks you still have brakes. It may be that the garage let the fluid get too low when bleeding brakes and some air has got into clutch system or by pure coincidence the master/slave is failing. If not leaking it could be fluid getting past the seals. It first needs the clutch bled and if that doesn't improve it I would look at master for leaks(on mine the fluid ended up on undertray) The slave on mine is external but the actuator rod that operates clutch is internal so difficult to see if leaking. It is removable without Gbox removal to check if its leaking or look at bottom of bellhousing for signs of clutch fluid. As said I would get clutch bled first and take it from there. Alasdair

It may be that the clutch/release bearing has had it if nothing else helps. I would change the slave anyway as if its the clutch I would be changing slave at the same time. It may also be the clutch plate has stuck to either the flywheel or release bearing has stuck. You could try put in first gear with engine off and then use starter to try and jolt it free. Try first with foot on clutch in first and if it tries to move forward the clutch isnt disengaging for some reason Careful it doesn't start and shoot forward. Alasdair

If it goes into gear no problem with engine off the Gbox should be fine and selector mechanism good. If you have reset cables then it does sound like a clutch problem. Wonder if the slave is starting to fail and only pushing so far before fluid leaks past the seals. On mine its an external slave but actuator rod is internal so cant see if its leaking. If its the same as mine I managed to change mine without Gbox removal. Could also be a failing master but I would start with slave. Might be worth bleeding clutch system first in case theres any air in there. Alasdair

Maybe its needing a good clean and then reset? Alasdair

Hope its something simple. Check the brake/clutch fluid level isnt dropping as well in case theres a leak in master/slave. Alasdair

Sorry just realised your talking about rear not front. Not sure on them as I did the front. Alasdair

From memory it wasn,t that easy. I have snapped a few but last time I think I heated it up slightly and knocked it through rather than pulled out. I have both Fabia and Octavia and the Octavia was a bit more tricky. Alasdair

Found the link to youtube that shows how to set cables. Its a 5mm not 8mm pin/drill Alasdair

It could the cables that have moved/jumped or hopefully not a gearbox problem. Make sure they are both attached as its not unknown for the plastic ends to break. You should be able to move selector on top of Gbox up/down and left/right without cables attached to check that its not the Box/selector unit thats seized. There are a few tutorials on how to reset cables online. It involves locking selecor on top of Gbox and also gear lever by inserting I think 8mm drill/rod then reattach cables. Alasdair

Could be the plastic linkage on top of gearbox that has seized or the cast weight is loose or worn on its spindle. Have a Seat altea that the plastic link that the cables attach to had seized up and couldn't select 3rd,4th,5th. Looks like this Its unlikely but could also be a seized gear selector cable, If everything is moving freely then might be worth resetting cables.

Was looking to see what an STL format file was and found this https://www.yeggi.com/q/skoda+fabia+mk2/ Not sure if its what your looking for. Alasdair

Just been out to check bulbs/wiring again in case I missed one. Slammed rear tailgate and number plate light went out momentarily so reckon its the culprit. Didn't think the system covered them plus I have to admit never checked them when warning light was on. Will investigate further when weather gets better. Blowing a gale at the moment. Thanks again Alasdair

Cheers Pete will do. It came on just as I came home today after being off into and out of town (10miles plus one stop) and checked every bulb before I switched off car and they all seemed bright and ok. A poor/loose earth would change the resistance so would put warning on. Will check the rear clusters out. Alasdair

Hi there, Octavia 1.6tdi 12 plate estate. Got a weird one. Bulb blown light is on but no bulbs are blown. None seem dim or different. Haven't replaced any recently and its only on sometimes. There all standard halogen bulbs (no LED etc) Its a bit random. Sometimes its on when car is started other times it appears after driving for a few miles and sometimes not on at all. Even remembered to check high level brake light this time including reversing lights. Could it be a failing bulb? Any thoughts welcome. Alasdair

I did the same and ended up removing bearing and drilling it out as I didnt want anything to get into hole. You could see if you could get an easy out or self tapping screw into the bit thats left plus soak overnight in releasol before trying to remove. Alasdair

Good luck with the swap. Auto boxes are pretty reliable but when they go its often catastrophic. Alasdair

As you changed master it may be a small amount of air in ABS unit that's not coming out. The fact that you get 'Status Ready / K1 OK / K2 OK / CAN NOT READY' may be that there is a bad connection at port or perhaps the port isnt getting power. Check that the drivers for VCDS are up to date and I assume its a genuine cable. I assume you tried with ignition on and engine running. Might be worth checking terminals in port and also lead plus fuses related to OBD port. As far as I know a MK2 should have Can-bus. Can you scan car for codes? Alasdair

Glad you found the problem an its sorted. Coolant loss can be a nightmare to find. Alasdair

Have a good check of the tyres. My old Seat altea warning used to come on due to a tyre being slightly out of round. I kept resetting and checking but didnt notice tyre at first an assumed it was a sensor but after a few weeks car developed a wobble you felt through seat and one was slightly deformed. I jacked each wheel up and lowered onto a flat board with tyre just touching then spun wheels and found one was about 1cm out of round with a weird twist in it. Expensive day as the tyre service pointed out the age of tyres and said I needed all four as if one had gone the chances are the others may follow. I trust the tyre place. They are decent and have been using them for at least 40 years. Alasdair

Thats a big bill. The chain and kit is around £250 so I don't see how they want £2000 labour? Unless there are skoda only tools involved I would be going elsewhere. Alasdair

Could be a failing bearing/ABS sensor/ABS ring or wiring. From memory the car uses info from ABS sensor to work out if a tyre is flat. Maybe worth getting it scanned in case a fault code is stored or if faulty which wheel/wheel sensor it is Alasdair