Alasdair1

Maybe a failed expansion tank cap. It doesnt take much water/coolant to make a lot of steam so you may not be noticing it drop. Not sure where the expansion tank vent hose goes. It could be near exhaust etc. Mark the tank level when cold and check after a day or two when cold. Doubt its the washer fluid as its low down near front.

If you have the original then as long as the filter is clean it should rule out the airfilter. It may be that the sensor or thermostat has failed. Its not unheard of for aftermarket parts not to last very long. As said check connectors and wiring etc. Alasdair

Its not a misfire under load is it? My old octavia 1.9tdi used to run great but used to misfire underload causing a judder. Would only do it if I accelerated hard above 3000rpm. I used a couple of doses of injector cleaner and it seemed to cure it. It could also be a tyre thats got mishapen which in my case caused a weird wobble through the seat and also a bit through the wheel. Might be worth swapping front to rear to see if it makes any difference. The tyre was more speed related rather than revs but so noticeable at low speeds.

Not sure I would have said temp sensor/thermostat as well but as you changed them?? It might be worth checking wiring to temp sensor in case its damaged or perhaps the connnector. Try it without the airfilter in case its blocked. Alasdair

Sorry meant drivers RH side. Been a long few days. Will try the above as the drivers side shaft is still on vehicle as is the transfer box. Alasdair

Many thanks. Will be speaking to him in the next couple of days. I will either refit gearbox or remove rear drive unit and connect on bench. Its difficult to get to internal spline on passenger side of gearbox due to it being deep into box. Clutch plate/disc seem good with disc only worn 25% and no play in DMF. Will ask him exactly what the scenario was when it failed. Alasdair

Many thanks for the replies. The gearbox is out and reckon will take to a specialist to see if they can help. Something doesnt feel right. Feels slightly rattly and uneven when turning. Bevel drive for prop/haldex turns when input shaft is turned and has complete resistance when trying to stop it turning so should be driving constantly which as said would explain power to rear but front drive is the problem. As said maybe time to take to a specialist to get it checked out. Alasdair

Just had another look at gearbox on bench and it looks like it may be a gearbox fault after all. If I turn input shaft the bevel drive gear turns and theres good resistance if I try to stop it by hand. The other side where the passenger side shaft fits does turn but has no resisistance at all. I am not sure if I am correct but it looks as though the power is managing to get to the drivers side drive shaft and bevel drive unit which supplies the rear prop but nothing to the passenger side which would perhaps explain lack of front wheel drive but power to rear. I assume something has gone bang or stripped inside box or diff. Alasdair

I think your correct. I assumed the unit that was left on van that supplies power to rear and also drivers side wheel was diff but I think its the bevel drive unit and as you said the diff is in the gearbox itself Still to get van in shed. Alasdair

Mechanic suggested to remove gearbox. Son in law said yes as he at that time trusted mechanic but also mentioned to mechanic it could be a diff problem as the gearbox/clutch gave him no trouble to that point. Mechanic said maybe diff but took gearbox out anyway without checking diff. He then said that he would only replace it if he replaced clutch,flywheel etc. which in my opinion have at least 50k left. I think the mechanic was making work for himself and obviously hadnt worked on a haldex system before. As said once we get a proper look and check the Diff will get back. Appologies for the lack of continuity in info as I am getting it second and third hand and also posting on the yeti forum. I wouldn't normally but we are needing help with this one. Once I get further info on what has been done or not done I will be back. Many thanks for the info re checking diff. Think the way to go is to remove diff from car and refit to gearbox out of car and check it from there on bench and see if anything is obvious. Alasdair

Son in law serviced haldex as car was skipping and not driving well at all. Took for test drive and seemed ok and then suddenly no drive with no noise etc so assumed sudden clutch failure as its fairly high mileage. Didn't have time himself so took to mechanic who said that there was drive to rear but nothing to front so removed gearbox. Why I have no idea as he said there was drive to haldex. I personally would have checked front diff assembly/shafts etc which is still on car. Hence why he took van away from mechanic and wont be using him again!!. Had a look at gearbox this morning and selector is fine. seems to engage all gears and no play etc in input shaft. Clutch as said is 1/4 worn and DMF/release bearing all seem ok with no leaks form Gbox or clutch slave. Turned input shaft to gearbox and output shaft sockets turn so reckon gearbox is sound. Havent had a proper look at diff yet as I am up to my eyes with work as is my son in law. Hope to get a proper look in the next couple of days. Don't think he will be paying the so called mechanic either. Will post any findings as soon as I can Alasdair

Quick update. Van is here and gearbox seems fine. Differential is still on van so can't check at moment. Mechanic was reccomended to my son in law but after speaking to him reckon the mechanic hasn't got a F***ing clue!! Said he would only replace geearbox if a new clutch and flywheel fitted but theres no play in DMF and cutch disk is only 1/4 worn so Son in law said don't bother and transported van to here. Son in law going to pop in one evening this week and we will have a proper look. Mechanic said drive to rear only and suggested gearbox. After looking at it if the gearbox had gone there would be no drive to anywhere. Might be a problem with diff but not sure how it could be. The only other thing would be perhaps a broken shaft cv joint etc or something inside the diff thats broken or stripped. Will post once we get into it. At least being a 4x4 and big chunky tyres its fairly easy to get under. Many thanks so far Alasdair

I have just been told that the van is getting dropped off here so will get more info and have a look myself. Will also make sure the haldex fluid level is correct. Son in law dropped it off and had to run so wil post once I speak to him

Did point that out but mechanic must have thought gearbox/clutch was faulty and removed it. Reckon he should be looking for a new mechanic. As said hes like me and normally does it himself but just didn't have time and the car wasn't under cover so working on it was difficult. Will be seeing him later so will get him to bring gearbox here and we can have a look. Will post what I find. Alasdair

Will be speaking to him hopefully later and will get more info etc. Not sure which mechanic he is using. He normally does the work himself but didn't have time due to work. As said in other post they originally assumed the clutch/gearbox had gone hence the removal of the box. Alasdair

The drive is going to rear but not the front which I agree with you doesn't make any sense unless its a front drive shaft that has failed internaly. The rear wheel skipping was due to clogged filters etc in the Haldex. Luckily it wasn't the mechanic that serviced it. My son in law did it himself and hes pretty good and thorough. It was when they test drove the car after servicing haldex that they found no front drive and the gearbox was removed as they originally thought it was a clutch failure/gearbox failure. Will be speaking to him later on today so will get some more info. Many thanks Alasdair

Haldex seems to be working now. It was fully serviced and cleaned with new oil etc. It was skipping when driving and just wondering if thats caused damage to transfer box. I posted it on the general forum and got a diagram that shows power from gearbox via crown wheel to front diff etc. and then goes to front and rear. If theres power to the rear the gearbox I assume is still connected and supplying power to differential. As said son in law got a mechanic to take gearbox out but I havent seen it yet. Hopefully its a simple fix. Cars been off the road for a while now and he needs it for work. Will hopefully catch up with him today and get him to drain box and diff to see if theres any metal etc in there. Cant find any info on this. Its normally the rear that doesn't work due to haldex or controller. Alasdair

Sorry this is for once not Skoda related but VW caddy maxi but I believe its the same system as the Yeti. Son in law has one 2.0tdi 2011 plate and all drive is now being sent to rear wheels. Haldex unit has been fully serviced and oil changed as first thought it was the problem. Rear wheels were skipping and haldex not engaging properly. Now no drive to front wheels with all power to rear. Gearbox is currently out of vehicle. Clutch seems good with reasonable life left and drive shafts are solid. Anyone come accross this. Can't find any info on this problem. Appologies again for posting on Yeti forum but we are desperate for an answer. Mechanic thinks maybe gearbox itself but hes not sure on haldex systems and trying to find a decent second hand gearbox is not easy. Any help most appreciated. Alasdair

Is the steering fluid level ok and if so has it ever been changed? Alasdair

Hi there. Not a skoda related probem this time but hope someone on here may be able to help. Son in law has a 2011 VW caddy maxi 4motion and has problems with 4x4 drive. Haldex unit has been serviced/cleaned etc as originaly thought it was the problem as fault codes pointed to it and now seems to be working but car is only sending power to rear wheels. No drive at all to front. Checked front shafts etc and they seem fine. Has anyone come accross this before. Its a 2.0TDI 2011. Mechanic says its gearbox problem but not sure as hes not used to haldex system? Gearbox is currently out of vehicle. Clutch is still ok with a bit of life left. Any help would be welcome as its been off the road for a while and he needs it ASAP for work. He was told its the same system as the Yeti but not sure. Alasdair

Mine is a MK2 and its accessed from rear once the cluster is removed. If removing cluster make sure battery is disconnected as you can put the imobilser on . Also while its off give the connectors at rear a good clean and make sure they are properly seated when replacing cluster. Alasdair

Does the starter run slowly when hot or does it run normal speed. Not sure what you mean by not sufficient power to kick in to gear? If the starter is running slowly then I would as said check battery,(not unknown to get a bad new one) Battery terminals and earths plus connections to starter motor especially if its been removed recently. It also might be worth getting it read for fault codes to see if anything has come up Alasdair

Are they the correct springs? Also on mine there is a specific direction marked on the top mount. Cant see it affecting the strut that much though.

Sounds daft but check the exhaust for leaks. My sons failed similar reading. Exhaust had slight leak at centre coupling (not enough to hear) MOT guy sealed it up and it passed straight away. Alasdair

Make sure you look very closely at the fuses. As said my sons had a hairline crack which was so fine you couldn,t see it. We missed it the first time and assumed it was a wiring fault. Hope its a simpe fix Alasdair