Alasdair1

If its anything like the MK2 then not too bad a job. Bearings for mine are around £50-00 for APEC and a but more for FAG/SKF. Yours should hopefully be fairly straight forward as its 2016. My 2008 Mk2 was a bit trickier to get apart due to the age and rust. Ended up cutting bottom ball joint off and replacing it as it was easier. Also had to get a new ABS sensor as there was no way the old one was coming out as it snapped plus replaced flexi brake hose as it started to leak slightly when I was removing caliper. Alasdair

If the Btooth unit isnt under the seats then the Bolero probably doesnt have blue tooth. My son has an 06 fabia and he picked up a blue tooth/fm adapter for the cigarette lighter socket from halfords for about £15 so he can play his music from his phone. The other option would be to retrofit the Bluetooth unit under the seats but not sure how complex that would be. Alasdair

I can't remember if I accessed it through the settings mode on the car or if my local garage turned it off. I think the settings were under convienence/comfort control but you may need VCDS etc to access them. Alasdair

Could very well be a wheel bearing. Had one that showed no sign of play or obvious wear and felt smooth just an annoying hum. Was like that for about 2 years including two MOT before finally ot noticeably worse and I eventually changed it and hum disappeared. Garage couldn't find anything wrong apart from the hum. Alasdair

My octavia 12 plate has small handsfree touch screen right hand of dash with microphone on windrscreen pillar. Not sure if its standard or an added extra. Is there not an AUX port in the pop up box between front seats? My old octavia had a 3.5mm jack connection there and my later SEAT had a USB socket.

Glad you got it sorted. Didn't realise they needed coded. £135 seems a fair price. At least you don't have the annoying fault anymore. Mine used to close up when driving randomly so disabled the folding option. Never did replace it as couldn't get one for my Seat in the same colour plus cars a work horse. Alasdair

Had a quick look and yep seems to be a fault with TDI all the time. Wonder if the repair would fit yours? Also did read to check wiring and connectors back from actuator as it can get damaged by heat and cause probems as well.

Couple of things. Are you losing coolant? it may be a leaking heater matrix. I did have a leak on my folks old mk1. Front passenger and rear passenger carpets RHD car plus carpet wet as it rises under dash. and it was blocked drainage channel under windscreen wipers/scuttle . You can if I remember get to it from the wheel arch as well. Theirs was choked with leaves and gunge plus a couple of old mouse nests. Alasdair

Ive just read a thread that mentions there being different sealant types for the sump and the timing cover... is this true? I must admit this is another topic that I have very little knowledge on, am I able to just use something like this? I have in the past done a Toyota lucida 3cte engine sump which is sealed with special grey silcone and no gasket. Had to remove it to access rotten core plugs. Main problem was removing sump which is in two parts and cleaning up old silcone. I used small craft scalpel to cut slowly between the joins. The special grey sealant was available from Toyota but £50-00 for a small tube. Its supposedly for japanese import vehicles (hence the price). Did a fair bit of research and found Loctite SI5660 would do the same job so used it. I still have the people carrier and its been perfect for years plus I think it cost me about £12-00 online. Its antifreeze and oil resistant.

Sorry didnt realise it was an auto. Havent much experience with them. Maybe the ecu cutting engine due to fault when trying to drive? Have you had it scanned recently for codes? Alasdair

I assume you mean driving in gear and not with foot on clutch and in gear. If the timing is way out and if you have beeen lucky and not damaged valves I reckon you would be well down on engine power which could stall it. With that noise its like something like a chain slapping off something or similar. What mileage is the car and has it had a timing chain done in the past As said don't run it till you find out whats gone wrong. You could be lucky and have minimal damage so far. A chain kit is a lot cheaper than a head rebuild or engine swap. Alasdair

Perhaps try the vcds genuine cable. As said I am just learning but have seen a lot of posts re ross tech forums and they seem very helpful. So far I'm maanaging with my cheap chinese vag401 reader but reckon I will need to get the genuine VCDS at some point. Alasdair.

Does sound like somthing is hitting something and not very healthy at all. I would get a compression test done ASAP and if its good then take it from there. Try a length of garden hose. One end to your ear and move the other around engine to see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. Could even be broken valve springs or very loose timing chain. Not sure if your engine has a balance chain/oilpump? I wouldn't be running it at all until the chain is checked. It may have just jumped one or two teeth and not caused too much damage but if its jumped once it probably will jump again!! I once had an alternator bearing fail and the tension on the belt puled the alternator pulley/fan so it was hitting alternator body making exactly the same sound. Not bad at idle but worse the more revs I gave it. Alasdair

Wonder if that certain garage follows briskoda? Glad you got it sorted.

Is the VAG commander cable a genuine one? I have been looking at VCDS or VAG commander etc as I seem to be collecting skodas and seat with problems. Been reading that there are a few copies of VAG commander cable on ebay that have caused problems or just don't work. Also found out thats VCDS lite doesnt seem to work with CAN BUS cars. Not sure about VAG commander. Looks like I will have to purchase VCDS and due to the number of cars I have sitting with faults will have to be the enthusiast version with upto 10 VIN as my daughter plus son in law also have VW with problems. Have a cheap chinese fault reader thats great for cancelling error codes but very slow so reckon I could do with something easier to use and a bit more advanced. Next step will be learning how to use it and not mess up the car while I'm at it. There might be someone local to you on here with VCDS that could pull the codes for you. Alasdair

Found this on GOV website. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/cancelling-goods-or-services-guide-for-consumers/cancelling-goods-or-services Heres an etract. Businesses can keep your deposit or advance payments, or ask you to pay a cancellation charge, only in certain circumstances If you cancel the contract, the business is generally only entitled to keep or receive an amount sufficient to cover their actual losses that directly result from your cancellation (eg costs already incurred or loss of profit). Businesses must take reasonable steps to reduce their losses (eg by re-selling the goods or services). Non-refundable deposits should only be a small percentage of the total price. Cancellation charges must be a genuine estimate of the business’ direct loss. Worth a quick read and perhaps a call/visit to citizens advice. If its done online then 14 day cooling off option. If its done at the dealers then you get none. Reckon they should have given you or emailed a copy of the contract. You could also try https://www.themotorombudsman.org/ to see if there is anything they can do. Alasdair

Could be a sticking solanoid. If sitting for a while especially when cold it could stick/jam and then release after a few secs. Once free it may start ok then seize up again after sitting for a while. Had one on an old merc van that did this and eventually didn't operate enough to hit the starter contacts. Was worse in cold weather as it had water ingress which froe. New solanoid and it was good for years. Could also be worn contacts in the starter itself. Alasdair

Metal in oil is never a good sign. Hopefully its a simple fix. Still dont see why a bad bearing would cause misfire unless its completely gone but if theres metal in the filter then something has worn. Hope the weather gets better for you Alasdair

Sons clutch disentegrated and a lot of the clutch fibres ended up in and around starter motor so quite possible it could jam the engage of the starter What are the symptoms of the starter failing If the clutch and dmf have just been changed check wiring is tight and secure. It wouldn't be the first time a terminal hasn't been tightned properly after a clutch change. Alasdair

Check the connections to starter for corosion and earth straps etc. If the starter is running slow then either lack of current or perhaps coils in starter failing. Alasdair

I have a 1.9tdi that I know two glow plugs are failed/failing but it turns over instantly before the glow plug symbol disapears. In cold weather its a bit lumpy for about 15 secs till it warms up. Might be as simple as a failing ignition switch or starter relay. Think its in fuse box in engine bay or under dash . Check the terminals for corosion and maybe replace it. Alasdair

Know the feeling. Seems to be freezing and cold every time they break down. Had to do my sons clutch in -5C. Gave up a few times when spanners were freezing to my hands. Waiting for it to warm up a bit to do the bearing and drop links etc on my 12 plate Octavia. At least I got a space cleared in a large open shed but still damn cold. As said get it scanned. It might ping up something fairly simple or narrow it down a bit. Alasdair

Could be a worn crankshaft or crank sensor thats causing the misfire? I would get it scanned for fault codes and perhaps a compression test to see if one or two of the cylinders are down on compression. Check the inlet exhaust manifold gaskets as well. Could be a blown exhaust gasket you are hearing. Alasdair

Yep if only they galvanized the sub frame or perhaps made them of alloy. I got Febi swing arms as they were cheaper and car is pretty past it with corosion. Going try and get an MOT and use it as a shed/works car. Got a mk2 1.6tdi to keep me going but I prefer the 1,9tdi plus get much better MPG and no DPF!

Totaly agree, My old mk2 rear swing arm bushes are shot and tyres wear to one side. They are really bad and sounds like a rear wheel bearing is going. The offset bolts for adjustment on mine are seized solid. Probably why most places only do a front alignment. I decided to get new swing arms complete with bushes etc and new bolts. Once fitted will get the alignment checked. Main problem will be getting the old ones off. Just hope the subframe passes the MOT