J.R.

There will not be additional or seperate wiring for the cornering lamp function, the body control module simply switches the relevant foglamp on and off as required.

You do like to invent things to suit your imagination. The 3d mapping for ignition and fuelling is written to prevent pre-ignition under all conditions using the lowest octane rating fuel specified for the engine, the ECU not knowing what fuel has been put in the vehicle will advance the ignition timing beyond this until the piezo-electric knock sensor gives an output the spark timing is retarded to just beneath this point, this happens dynamically hundreds of times a second. It allows the maximum benefit to be gained from higher octane fuels. I have owned a 2006 1.9TDi BKC engined car and it does not have what you attribute to it.

Was the engine running correctly and as peppy as before after the cam belt change? Incorrect cam timing can result in ultra high exhaust temperatures although like retarded ignition timing on a petrol engine.

Its the DPF sensor, its connected to the exhaust, either the DPF is blocked and the back pressure has blown one of the flexible pipes off or it came adrift for some other reason, in either case the resultant combustion gases escaping have melted everything, I have seen several others like that. I suppose a crack or failure within the unit could do the same.

That is larger than 10mm diameter, the radial crack at 8 O clock goes beyond the image. On what basis did you believe it would/could qualify for a warranty repair?

The fault codes that you had were to be expected when the factory radio is removed, I have them too. The Chinese ones take the information from the canbus like vehicle speed (for increasing volume) steering angle (for the trajectory screen of reversing camera) and all the other stuff that it displays like doors open, heater fan speed etc but it does not communicate (talk back) with the Can gateway controller and the standard Bluetooth module. For bluetooth you have to use the built in one on the Chinese head unit but it cannot use the better placed manufacturers microphone. You learn to live with them.

Completely implausible, you have a manual transmission car (no kickdown) and the Haldex has a very intelligent controller that monitors wheel speeds, lateral acceleration, yaw angle, throttle position, steering wheel angle etc and even pre-emptively engages it anticipating wheelspin in certain situations, its laughable to think that its engaged by an accelerator pedal switch. If you are happy with this mechanic then carry on using him but don't rely on him for advice, ask a drunken bloke in a pub instead!

There is, you can read its resistance and the fuel quantity in litres using VCDS. Correct, as above you can view the individual volumes making up the displayed fuel gauge reading. Item 26 is the LH tank fuel level sensor, the two pipes are the return line from the high pressure diesel pump via the filter housing going into the venturi in the float gauge which draws in fuel from the LH saddle and returns it to the RH tank with the returned fuel from the engine. The diagram does not show a pick up pipe to the bottom of the tank well but it must have one. Thanks for the diagram, I wont have to lift the carpet now to satisfy my curiosity. I'm jealous! 🤣

Outside temperature sensor going by the location although the ones I've seen dont look like that. What is the thing in the backgroung out of focus in the first photo, is it the other part of this thing? What makes you think that it is a sensor?

In your theoretical but not in my practical experience world. Once again a theory being recounted as fact, how do you square your theory of no coolant so fans running to cool a radiator containing no coolant? As I stated before the vehicle has a coolant level sensor, if the coolant level is low it switches on the warning light.

Seriously? It would definitely be my first port of call. The HVAC is unlikely to be connected, you can check the compressor shut down code in VCDS, probably low refrigerant pressure.

No question about it, I appreciate the accelerated warm up of my EU5 diesel, much much faster than the preceeding EU4 and EU3 Tdi's that I had and it manages to do so with a standard wax capsule thermostat. I do have the sliding sleeve bellows on the water pump to one day bite me on the bum but for the moment I am profiting from it functioning, even that is powered by the coolant flow albeit via a solenoid valve. I'm not convinced about the reduced wear and economy, the heater gives heat far sooner but each joule of energy I gain there is one joule less to warm up the engine oil, once the diesel cycle is self sustaining (post pre-heat) there is no additional enrichment contrary to a petrol engine. Some de minimus friction losses but having watched my fuel economy like a hawk for 20 years I dont notice any measurable decrease after a winter cold start compared to a summer one, there is only a 7% difference in absolute temperature.

More complication of proven reliable simple technology. Vehicle thermostats aside from someone deciding to over-complicate things like above were always expanding wax filled capsules not bi-metallic, very simple, very reliable, easy to diagnose when they did play up.

🤣🤣🤣 Yeah why take any notice of the coolant level sensor! No coolant = high temperature.

Inner track rod joint worn, that is replaceable, the play in the steering rack used to be repairable by removing shims from the damper plunger retaining plate. Now I am questioning both of those statements because they relate to the hydraulic power steering rack of the MK1 and not the electric one of the MK2. Maybe someone else can confirm or deny the above.

Thermostats are passive devices, not belt driven.

Bienvenue Hedgehog 😄

Uncomfortable ride for better fuel economy. I set my tyre pressures according to the wear gradient across the tread, I measure the tread depth once or twice a year, rotate tyres and adjust the pressures according to what corner they are on, I go up to the laden pressures when doing my 800km laden journeys often towing. I got 55K miles from the last set of tyres which were already part worn when I got the car, I have replaced with the same but newer version.

If it is not a low SAPS oil then the DPF will clog prematurely, I bought 20l of Mannol oil that was supposed to be low SAPS but wasn't and took a chance, 3 oil changes later and the DPF differential pressure is disproportionately higher at 130k miles than it was at 100K miles. Now they sell a VAG 504/507 version, before they just pretended to with trickery.

That Corolla is a keeper!!! I bet that has given 41 years of 100% reliability. Do the new road tax rates hammer old school vehicles like that or is that a tax exempt historic? I love how much glass older vehicles had and how slender the door and screen pillars were, compare it to the cars in the background.

There is no filter on the clutch hydraulics, you have a concentric slave cylinder that is drawing in air. Normal pedal action should return for a short while after bleeding, you say the clutch oil has been changed, the clutch hydraulics use the brake fluid reservoir, do you mean this? Was the system bled correctly afterwards?

Sliding sleeve sticking on the replacement water pump/

Oil cooler? That may be fed direct from the block cooling jacket though. Maybe the Tsi does not have one? I'm more used to diesels and that is the position of the oil cooler on them.

Someone on here recently replaced the whole ribbon cable with one from Ali-express after having repaired theirs a few times over the years. I do recall reading that failures were common on certain models that did not have the better dust sealing arrangements of later units and being caused by long hairs getting wrapped within the unit.

Dog pi55.