J.R.

Respect to you for managing to do your brakes, I imagine that the jacking up and setting of the stands must have been the most challenging followed by releasing the wheelnuts. In the video the wheelchair does not look to have come forward enough or do you swivel round in the drivers seat to release it and then position it where you want it?

In my experience no, if you are really lucky it might show up a generic OBDII code for braking system, ABS etc but definitely not the detailed specific VAG fault codes contained in the relevant modules. Another example, the airbag light comes on, a generic OBDII reader will tell you what you already know, there is a fault in the airbag system, VCDS will tell you that the drivers door crash sensor or the passenger seat airbag has an open circuit or short to ground, intermittent signal from steering wheel airbag (clockspring) failure to communicate with airbag control module etc etc etc.

Bent valves or if you are really lucky then they have got something else wrong on re-assembly. Have you had a compression test since the belt change? If the engine fires up using Easi-Start then you are a very lucky man & I would then check the cam timing and all the sensors etc.

My EU CoC lists several different wheel & tyre sizes.

The answer is in the thread title.

Worked for me, I just got the part numbers for my neighbours springs, the colours are to the right of the 1 colour 2 colour etc, my neighbours springs were Yellow Yellow Yellow White & the chart read 3 colour - Yellow 1 colour - White.

Had I gone to Cornwall to their workshop & not used a mobile unit or local dealer Celtic Tuning would have removed the emissions "fix" free of charge, the dealer wanted £90 but it would not have been a roolback but allegedly a later less debilitating VAG revision for the fix. I declined as I have an EGR emulator/simulator so there are no negative effects of the EGR but am questioning my decision, the ECU "thinks" that EGR is occurring and hence the calculated soot load is rising as fast as ever and the regens still far too frequent for my liking but then my journey profile has changed with the lockdown. It seems to me that the 25g soot threshold to trigger the regen is using the calculated and not the measured value, the problem being that I would need to have seen the figures just before a regen happens, does anybody know?

I would fill it only paying attention to the feather out on the rearmost edge, I would use masking tape so that the repair does not go down to the vertical section. Then I would fit a rubber, plastic or metal bumper protector as much to the rear as possible, that will leave only a tiny touch up to contend with, you could even run a bead of sikaflex along that edge to hide it completely. I used the cheapest rubber one from Ali-Express, it came rolled up and when flattened the curve did not match my bumper but it was flexible enough to exactly follow the form when applied with care from the centre outwards using contact adhesive and a masking tape guide.

I dont know of a single garage door operator that uses an infra-red remote control, they all use the allocated licensed frequencies reserved for that use, 868mhz and 433mhz.

Agreed, if it constantly and repeatedly dies after exactly 2 seconds I would bet my house on it being the immobiliser cutting in, the cause could be the key, the reader coil, a connection somewhere or more likely a dry joint on the instrument binnacle PCB where the connector joins it.

He is probably correct, after all Brexit ate my homework!

Where did you come up with that gem!

The foglights are programmed to come on when reverse gear is engaged, dog only knows why, the nearside one that you are seeing is probably the cornering assistance function, as has been said it should also happen when turning right beyond certain steering angles.

Get a VCDS scan done, if there is a power supply problem to the instrument cluster it will show up as a logged fault code, low voltage and/or failure to communicate. If it is an immobiliser problem then the engine start with a non recognised key will be recorded as a fault code, I have been playing with a non chipped key so I can lock my keys in the car (long story & not relevant) the engine will start with said key and cut out in 2 seconds dead, the event was recorded as a fault code.

Its your choice but be aware that if you inform your insurance company it will be treated as a claim pending and you will lose your no claims bonus until the claim is either refuted or in the (likely) case that they dont pursue a claim (knowledge of the dash cam) after a period of a couple of years, been there got the T shirt. If you have protected NCB you will see that your policy renewal cost shoots up with the stock excuse about the underwriters having a bad year etc and there is diddly squat you can do about it as if you go to another insurer they will say you have zero NCB and a claim pending. If the police request your insurance details you have no choice but if I were to ask you for your insurance details because I wanted to chance my arm for a payout and you knew there had been no accident then you would refuse and have no obligation to inform your insurers which can be done at a future date in any case. Your choice but be aware of the consequences.

Decrease?

That was my mileage profile in France before Covid restrictions and it was absolutely fine for the DPF, even now with short journeys it regens a lot more (never was aware of them before) but I will not interrupt them, I carry on driving or restart and go back out again usually for less than 2 miles & it has done its stuff, I keep an eye on the soot and oil ash levels using VCDS and all is well and the DPF should be good for 250-300 Kmiles, I dont like the more frequent regens or that the soot level climbs faster but its simply a reflection of my now very mostly short journeys.

Not from cold it isn't unless you live in the Sahara. And when the temp guage first shows 90°c the actual temperature is well short of that but it will get there in time. Monitoring the oil temperature on the Maxidot display is much more revealing and by coincidence I was doing just that last night, I drove 1 mile to the motorway and then at a constant 65mph, the oil temp read zero while the water temp was climbing after the thermostat had opened, at about 3-4 miles the temperature guage was at the 90° mark (mines a diesel so slower to warm up) and it was at that exact time that I got the first reading of the oil temp at 50°c

After another bleeding session and a good look at the pipe runs etc I reluctantly conclude that it is not a heat soak problem, it occurs too quickly, I'm sure I could do some more tests to prove it but each time I end up bleeding the thing again although no air comes out. Reluctantly conclude because that means the problem has to be a mechanical one acting on the concentric slave cylinder which has been both vacuum & pressure tested & does not leak, a mechanical problem points scarily to the possibility of a Sachs pressure plate

I dont think that at speed the radiator fan will have much effect on the exhaust components sandwiched behind the rear of the engine block & the bulkhead, especially after blowing through the intercooler, aircon condensor and engine radiator, at a standstill while a regen is happening I can see the validity. Good point regarding LHD/RHD, I dont think the fluid is boiling but perhaps expanding and pushing back to the reservoir, the brake master cylinder is metal, exposed and not affected, the clutch master is different to any other as it lacks the second internal seal and spring, when the pedal is at the top of the stroke there is no restriction to fluid being returned to the reservoir.

10 days of testing, bleeding, going back to a standard unmodified bleed block or max torque limiter to use its other name and also reading just about every Yeti clutch pedal thread going with the benefit of hindsight I can conclude that the problem is 100% one of the heat generated by the DPF when giving the engine some beans. Its much better with the new cylinder and some glasswool insulation between the cylinder and the refractory shield but its still apparent, if I do a wide open throttle run through 3rd & 4th gears changing up at 4.5k between roundabouts on a dual carriageway I can feel the pedal sink slightly, if I come back the other way and do the same immediately then there will be maybe 1/4 of the pedal stroke as lost travel, it will pump up and driving normally for a couple of minutes its back to normal again. I have not mastered the live data logging in VCDS but had the number 1 exhaust temp sensor value showing on the computer screen while I was driving, I could only get the occasional glimpse when safe to do so but I saw 700°c on one short acceleration run and am sure that it goes much higher when I get the pedal problems. It has definitely been worsened by the extra heat generated if I use the extra power from the remap but the problem has always been there (probably from al the regens) as witnessed by the decomposition of the original master cylinder seal and the black sediment in the fluid when bleeding which others have reported, its a design problem and if you look at the premature failures it tends to be the 170hp variants, if anyone has one perhaps they could advise if there is any additional heat shielding, a photo would help. Tomorrow I am going to try to see if any part of the metal fluid line is exposed to heat from the turbo or downpipe and see if I can do anything about it, it will probably be a case of working by feel again.

I have the smaller diameter suspension struts so they will also need changing or I will need spacers. What has put me off most of the hubs I have seen available is that they have clearly come from a much older vehicle than mine that has spent its life under the sea! I really dont want to end up with bearings that may be on their last legs, mine I think have the 3 fixings and not the 4 for the larger hubs, looking at the photos I would not even be sure that the torx bolts would undo. Maybe I need to spend proper money and buy the whole suspension struts, hub carriers, hubs discs & calipers from a late write off & sell on the ratty discs & calipers that I bought thinking they would be a simple bolt on job. Its encouraging to hear that the brakes perfom well after the upgrade.

Thanks, I will try that although i am not a Fessbook user, I was searching at the time you posted!

I adjusted my brake assist setting to "hard" this afternoon and I think the confirmation came up as "strong" or some other random noun (typical of VCDS confusion), to drive I cannot really feel any difference, I think perhaps it needs less pedal pressure for the initial bite but that has always been lacking on this car despite new discs & pads & then a change to Ferodo Eco friction pads which resolved the same issue on the MK2 Octavia, thereafter the braking is no better and takes just as much pedal effort. It definitely is not a substitute for the larger 320mm brakes which I have ready to fit once I find some hub carriers from a later vehicle that are not rusted to pieces.

I did a run with VCDS connected today, I was interested in the exhaust temperature but had the DPF figures running anyway, it has only done 16km since the last regen (I realised it was happening and did a quick motorway run) the calculated soot value was already 6.5g and given that the 16km were at motorway speed its not looking good at all. For the first time ever the measured soot value was closer to the estimated (5 point something grammes) it appears that you need to be driving to have any faith in the measured DPF values, at standstill or tickover mine are usually negative. Does anyone know whether the regens are triggered from the measured or calculated soot readings? Or perhaps whichever exceeds the threshold first?