fr1nklyn

Brown means "rust" usually. Or maybe just the expansion tank is old and/or a bit dirty and changes the color of the coolant Take a some coolant out and see it's actual color. From another forum: source: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-s8-d3-platform-discussion-60/orange-coolant-just-fyi-2939621/

I used the following method of changing the coolant. So maybe you can use the same method to flush the system with distilled water? The car was up to work temperature and with heating set to max in order to have all coolant circles open and using a coolant meeting the TL-VW 774 L standard(like G12Evo), because I don't have silica bag in the coolant tank anymore. I did this on the 5th year because I don't plan to change my timing belt soon. Should be applicable for all Mk3 engines.

Looks awesome mate!

What happened then? Did you topped up some coolant and return back or accepted the offer? I guess not.. 😂 The labor costs a lot in CH..

Wondering how do you find the ride quality compared to Superb as I’m considering the opposite swap Also the driver’s seat and space seems to be smaller in Octavia, Superb seems to be more comfortable and roomy for me, not sure 🤔

I feel that whatever we tell you, won't be enough.. if you think the car is designed badly, maybe you got the wrong car. The inlet manifold would be removed if any issues has occurred. And believe me, I know what issues could occur because I had 3x 1.9 engines suffering from sludge and carbon buildup - sticky turbo vanes, EGR stuck opened, loss of power, etc. None of them appeared on my car for almost 150k km. No error codes regarding such issues.

I’ve heard/read about the same issue in VW forum - it was related to a vacuum leak in break booster vacuum hose and check valve. Some were reporting that pressing the gas pedal fixes the brakes. Hope this helps, sounds like a scary issue to me!

This ^^ plus the EGR isn’t an issue anymore like in the PD and early CR VW engines. Almost no failures or issues are reported about EA288 engines 1.6 and 2.0 in this forum. No need of a race pipes, intake manifold cleaning, etc. Blocking it won’t give you any performance improvements. Do regular oil changes, some “Italian tune up” from time to time and optionally a tank of premium diesel every 3-4 fill ups. EGR helps you get up to the operating temperature quicker which is already a bit slow process on these engines. And also decreases the engine wear due to the same reason. For the DPF, leave it to complete its regens when possible.

Did you try decreasing the security type to WPA? It’s incompatibility with the network, either security or encryption type.

Hi, the question is can other devices connect to the same network to which your infotainment system can’t? If yes, most likely the info system doesn’t support something the WiFi network has. Try changing the encryption type or security type to WPA.

In most cases no extra labor cost is added, so usually people do both. Exception is if the car is on low mileage.

My O3 has almost 100k miles and still have no issues with the factory fitted water pump(knock on wood ). I changed the coolant once on the 5th year and I don’t plan to change the timing belt and water pump till 130k as this is the mileage interval in which Skoda requires to changed them in my country. No time interval. So it really depends on the car, maybe I’m lucky, who knows 🤔

Looks good @Dave77!

Hey, I've been to IKEA today and found really good and thin coffee mug for 10 euro https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/undersoeka-insulated-travel-mug-black-30497268/ I'm pretty sure that one will fit the O3 cup holder.

450 ml wow - is this two long espressos? What type of coffee do you drink in UK? The thermos stuff is pretty good and in the same price range: https://www.heavins.ie/p/thermos-thermocafe-travel-mug-400ml---stainless-steel--183344/5010576833440 This one fits the Octavia cup holder but it’s too big for me, like 20cm height which seems to be the size of the most of these big mugs. I prefer the small ones which have 200-250ml volume. Have a small one with unknown brand - the company I’m working for gave it to me as a present few years ago..

You can use 16" rims on 312 mm breaks - they are just few mm close to the break calipers, but they fit so it's worth checking. I assume it depends on the rims. OP is with VRS where there is a version with 340mm front breaks on Pre-FLs, I believe. There you can fit only 17" and above, for sure. I'm using old rims from Superb(Mk2?) on which I put brand new Pirelli Sottozero 215/60/16 (Yeti/Karoq tire size). The price was very good compared to the prices for 225/50/17 which is the OEM tire size of the Scout. So a set of old 16"s from eBay or forum with winter tires is also an option, it really depends on how often would you need them. We have a winter here(or we used to have actually 😕 ). For the all-seasons I've heard only good things about CrossClimates and Goodyear's Vectors, but they are expensive and not available in 225/35/19 tire size, but only in 235/35/19. So maybe the Maxxis aren't a bad option for 225/35/19 if your rims are less than 8J, otherwise you may go for more decent brands on 235/35/19.

I think the OEM ones are like 4300k temperature because I tried to match my fog lights with the low/high beams. I would stick to the OEM bulbs due to their longevity but if you're looking for better light, you may want to Osram Night Breaker as @Dooge suggested but again look at the 35W bulbs, not more. I also agreed that over 5k temperature, you decrease the visibility of the lights, especially in the foggy weather - been there and returned back to OEM ones because of this. EDIT: Forgot to mention - I started to be very satisfied from the OEM lights once they were properly adjusted. Most of the O3s I've seen had their lights a bit lower as a factory adjustment. You don't need to blind others, of course. Just half turn of the adjustment bolts is enough for most of them. Dealers usually do adjust them for free if you ask(they know about this issue)

You may have issues with any of the sensors on this mileage, but your constant regens are caused by the excessive oil consumption, sorry 😕 VAG DPFs at 80% usually need replacement or cleaning. I am not even sure should you change your oil or only the oil filter when you add more oil between changes than when you do a service. But that’s another story. If you can get someone with VCDS to run a diagnostic and see are there any logged errors that would give you an idea is there a problematic sensor or not.

Superbs does suffer from this as well. I had this on my O3 and soon after my best man with Superb started to notice it in the cold mornings when driving over bumps. On 140k km(87k miles) I changed the front bushes of the O3 with Lemforder ones and I believe that the issue still appears. My old factory bushes were in pretty good condition when garage returned them to me, so the creaking isn’t sign that they need replacement at all. Not because they are expensive.. Few years ago Skoda dealer fixed my creaking for an year with greasing, so I guess annual greasing cures the issues. F

You don't need any protection there. The factory cover is a sleeve. There is an aftermarket top cover if you want your battery to look fancy even though only the mechanic will be impressed https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32865910702.html or maybe similar

@AGFalcoNot sure what caused it but I’m almost 900km after the tires switch and the noise almost disappeared. I thought it’s a bad bearing.. Thanks a lot guys! I believe the remaining noise remained from the bad isolation of the car(other O3 owners also complain about it).

Doesn’t the Karoq have that thin cable connected to the battery like Octavia MK3? If yes, unplug that cable and S/s won’t start anymore. Just look at the picture in this post, https://dailydriven.ro/dezactivare-permanenta-start-stop-la-volkswagen-tiguan

Hi, I have the same rumbling noise and caused by the same over-inflating. I also swapped my tires and it’s now on the front. I had a 1000km trip this summer with kids, granny and a lot of baggage. So I inflated the rear tires to 2.8 bars, fronts to 2.5.. I was driving mainly on highways. Some time when I returned back, I noticed the rumbling on the rear and thought it’s wheel bearing, because I had to change 2 for 100k km. Then I found this thread in the forum and decided to swap the tires regardless of the lack of visual indication of uneven wear. The tires are 2 year old Goodyears Efficientgrip Performance 2 with 40k km. Let’s see are they going to get silent for 500-1000km as the Skoda book says.

Ahh yes, I forgot about the pollen filter - it's every next oil change for me/once a year. I change the oil with filter every 10k km which is like 6-7k miles, so I'm thinking of using an oil pump and change the filter every next time. The underneath tray and oil filter, and the mess cleaning done by the oil filter removal, really take me more than an hour... 😒

Belt.