fr1nklyn

I decided not to do it, because the whole repair would cost haft the price of the car Not because no one has ever suggested to do it 😂

I don’t want to encourage you for anything, but let me tell you something.. I drove an Audi A4 Avant with the last version of the well known 1.9 TDI engine( the bulletproof one, as some call it. Bought it second hand and drove it for nearly 100k km. It used to burn oil from the first day I got it. But no power loss was observed at all. I spent a lot of money to fix things in order to cure that oil consumption: valve steam seals, additives, rocker cover with builtin PCV, EGR delete, turbo CHRA replacement, different oil brands, etc.. Nothing helped, the oil consumption of about 1l per 1500-2500km remained. As I said, I drove it 5-6 years and then left it to my wife when I bought another car. I gave it to her and I started to change only the oil filter it was on top fortunately. At the end one of the cylinders stopped working and I sold it to an enthusiast who wanted to open the engine and fix it. It turned out to be a cracked piston based on the pictures which her new owner sent me

@Razvan_Ana Sorry man, even if you put Redline, that won’t solve your oil consumption issue. It doesn’t seem to be from it. Not sure can the turbo cartridge be checked for play easily on these cars, also the pipe after it for oil. Not sure is compression test going to help you. The oil control rings could be bad, but the other two on the piston to be good and the car can still burn oil. The compression will also be good in that case and therefore no loss of power to be observed.

Ravenol is a great oil - both VMP and VSW are good for your climate. But VMP provides better protection IMO. The HTHS is almost the same, but the TBN is almost 10% higher in VMP. TBN gives an indication of the amount of base available in the oil to neutralize organic and inorganic acids that accumulate in the crankcase of diesel engines during their operation. And last but not least, the VSW is more expensive than VMP.

Not sure how the things are in Romania, but there are many fake duplicates of Castrol, Shell, even VAG oil and many others. If it’s the same in your country, my recommendation is to use whatever you know it’s good and real. Note that my Skoda dealer told me that they don’t offer OEM 5w30 507.00 oil anymore, only 0w30 with that spec. And offered me Shell or similar as aftermarket oil, but again it was 0w30 with 507.00 spec. I think that it doesn’t matter much is it 0 or 5w if you don’t drive in a very cold country like Scandinavian ones. The wear protection and ash content is almost the same between both in most cases.

Ahh sorry for seeing this that late - I would also advise you to check the bearings. Same thing happened to me just before the end of warranty on the 5th year - Skoda dealer wasn’t sure is it front left or right one. It turned out to be both after they changed the bearing only on one of the sides first 😂

Check the PCV first as other guys already mentioned. On the vRS variant I would also suspect turbo on 180k km, just because people tend to buy it to floor it more often than the regular ones 🤪 Especially in our Balkans’ countries where you can drive a little more than the limit 😛 Has the car been serviced on 30k/2years intervals?

A little update - the local independent garage also said it’s most likely the right inner driveshaft. Its boot has a little hole in it.

I get around 35 mpg 50:50 city:highway driving. But the Scout is even heavier than the regular 4x4 version and a bit more lifted, I believe. Also the DSG weights more than the manual as well..

Hello guys, I had a 600km trip this weekend and noticed that car shakes from time to time while driving mainly on the highway - speed 120-140km/h. It’s also noticeable at 150-160km/h but not that much. It doesn’t happen all the time - this morning when I was returning back at home, it started after more than 1 hour of driving, not before that.. And it stopped after some time.. Not observed in the city driving at all. Judder stops once I release the gas pedal, that’s why I don’t think it’s caused by the wheels or alignment. It happened mainly on the highway, but I also noticed it while accelerating uphill with 70-80km/h. It was after driving 3 hours on the highway. I also think I noticed it once when exited the highway and went downhill to a roundabout while car was downshifting from 5th to 4th or 4th to 3rd. But that happened only once, other times it happened mainly on the highway why the gas pedal is pressed. I hope it’s inner driveshaft and not an injector(s)… But I left the car and didn’t notice any play, not because I understand much 😂 What do you think? I booked an hour for diagnostics for tomorrow, but when it happens it beats **** out of me because I was with my family in the car. The cars is Scout 184TDI 6sp DSG on almost 80k mile. Thanks!

Hi Mate, If that's the wet clutch 7-speed DSG, it should have documents for 2 services - on 60k and 120k. If it's the dry one - 1x service at 100-120k. If it's not been serviced for that time, I wouldn't buy it if I were you. Also if you plan to drive it in a city with a lot of start-stop traffic, then considering buying a manual. The combination of TDI+DSG isn't great for a tough city driving. Not to mention the DPF, but that's another story. If it's for motorway/highway driving, pick it up, again if it's serviced. Cheers, F

Thanks for the tips @Wino! Yeah, btw I've read somewhere that even with this method there are some airlocks, so it's recommended to have 1 spare liter of coolant mix. Which should be used after driving for 10-15 mins with turned on A/C on max temp and fan speed.

The author wrote that he tried to drain the coolant in the conventional way by removing the bottom hose, but only 2.5 liters were out. I guess that he hadn't waited his car to reach operating temp when he did that, and thermostats were not opened. Also I think in this method you don't add so much airlocks in the system like when you remove the bottom radiator hose.

Hey guys, I've seen several threads in the Russian forum drive2.ru where coolant is changed in very easy way. And was wondering what do you think about it? Do you think the same one can also be used in TDIs? (due to lower temps in their country, TDIs aren't driven much, so only TSI and MPI tutorials were shared..). Basically the steps are: 1/ Warm the car up to operating temp, so the thermostats are opened 2/ Warm new coolant to 60-70 degress, or boil distilled water and mix with coolant concentrate 3/ Turn the engine off 4/ Carefully and slowly remove the coolant tank cap 5/ Carefully and with gloves, disconnect the return pipe of the coolant tank and connect it to a 2m tube, to transfer the coolant into an empty bottle 6/ Start the engine 7/ Fill in the coolant tank with the new coolant mix periodically, until 10-12 liters are drained from the system(mine 184TDI with DSG has 12 liters ) Here is the original topic on Octy 1.8 TSI MK2, but I've seen the same on MK3: https://www.drive2.ru/l/537502032748086791/ I want to change my coolant, because my car is 5 years and 125k km old, and I have no silica bag in the coolant tank from half a year. And I don't plan to change water pump and cam belt until 8th year or 210k km as my dealer suggested.

I got 312mm front and 272 on the rears. Ok, it's TRW system, but that doesn't mean that I have to use TRW, right? I meant, I can use ATE rotors and pads on the TRW brake system with no issues. They should work per standard.

I am interested in ATE Ceramic pads and ATE vented rotors as a replacement of the stock ones on 125k km. The stock one just don’t stop that good anymore. I greased the brake pins and dealer changed the brake fluid. There is still “meat” in both in my current rotors and pads, but I still have to press the pedal harder than before in order to stop. I am looking for aftermarket alternative and am interested in ATE products.

I don’t think you will have issues with this tank having new silica bag in the next 3-4 years. If you plan to keep the car after that, you will need to change the tank again.

No, the new tank which you have is actually an old model and has a silica bag in it, sorry. The new ones without silica bag has no “Mit Silikat” stamp on them. There are like 5-6-7 models of the coolant tank where the latest one(s?) have no stamp and therefore bag in them. Old forum members usually recommend changing the coolant every 5 years if the silica bag is removed from a “Mit Silikat” tank.

A bit of an off topic, bit usually the bigger engines have lower idle speed. I remember a friend’s BMW with V8 running at 400-500 rpm. That was 4.4 or 5.0, not sure. Best man’s straight-six 3.0d running at 500-600. And most of the cars I had with 4 cylinders were having idle speed at around 750-850.

When I asked my local dealer should I change my cambelt and waterpump due to the mileage and age of my car, and also my concerns that the pump will soon fail somewhere on the road, they simply told me that the issue hasn’t been fixed yet, regarding the new versions of the pump. So they advised me not to hurry and wait till 8th year or 210k kms and then to change cambelt, pump as well as the v-belt and its tensioner. They could tell me that I have to change it and get the money of course, but they didn’t most likely because they know that this won’t solve my concerns. The truth is, the new pumps still fail, leak and get stuck.

My dealer told me that CR2032 presses the chip inside the key too much and causes issues on some users, that’s why I returned back the OEM size CR2025. I have no Kessy, so it should last 2-3 years at least. My original battery lasted 4 years.

When I changed the oil my pump filter wasn’t blocked but there was a lot of gunk inside the pump hosing, so clean that part either. I changed the o-rings and bolts of the pump, but I don’t think these are mandatory - you can change them every next cleaning. After starting the car for 1-2 mins, and then turning it off, I had to add additional 100-150ml of haldex fluid. I used Ravenol AWD oil, but any other specified for the Haldex gen 5 should be good.

Let me provide an update and answers to my questions: 1/ Yes, it was a straight swap with no coding needed or anything else - the 8” display 5E0 919 605 N is plug and play replacement of 5E0 919 605 H. 2/ It didn’t matter when I would install the new display unit, because SmartLink is installed in the head unit. Display unit only represents what headunit “sends” to it.

Actually looking at the angle of the xenon, the right hand traffic setting is the right for me. And also I missed the traffic part of the setting, logically the Left Hand cars drive in Right Hand Traffic :))) I have to change that setting to avoid blinding the cars in front of me.

Hi, I’ve noticed that in car settings my L-hand Octavia has headlights set to R-hand car by default. So I switched the headlights for a L-hand car, but now every time I turn the ignition ‘On’, I got the message that my headlights are adjusted. Looks odd to me - L-hand car to have R-hand headlights by default and even to explicitly trigger a message that headlights are adjusted when driver corrects this in car’s settings. Is this the same on all L-hand Skodas? Thanks, F