Danoid

Got my replacement wheel cap puller, only £1.28. I was going to ask what else should go in the missing yellow circle but thought they’d only look at ETKA which I have and it doesn’t say

Picked up my wheel cap puller today and took one cap off whilst was milky. Bit of spit and polish removed the milky ness on that one, but I got thinking. If I can clean them all up would https://www.toolstation.com/plastikote-quick-dry-clear-lacquer-spray-paint/p95217?store=S1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo4CD7pjx7wIVhOvtCh0QGAiQEAQYAyABEgLH6_D_BwE be okay to spray on the caps to make them last a bit longer? It says it’s fine for plastics, so i’m hoping it will come out okay But has anyone tried it or think it’s a waste of time trying?

Doesn’t sound great. I’d check the coolant level is correct to start with and that it looks in good condition. Then i’d change the temperature sensor, then thermostat, then cry (head gasket) Also i’m sure this still applies but digital reading shows higher (accurate) as the car runs higher than 90oC but the needle shows 90oC not to scare people, that was certainly the case for a Passat so I suspect it’s still the same. So that’s why I mentioned the temperature sensor as one pole sends signal to ECU and the other to the dash i’m not a mechanic though, but things I would try.

Ah good to know, mine was used also. I’m starting to believe it should be empty, I don’t know much about tow bars but wondering if that’s where the key goes, if they even have keys that is

I’ve got that already circled in red, what should go where the yellow circle is? Blue circle is where the puller lives

I just looked on ETKA (delete this message if I can’t say that) and it’s only £1.28 which is fine. Do you know what should go in the other hole? Looks like a key shape

I thought i’d give my wheel caps a clean as they’re milky, been like that since I bought the car a few years ago. Went to the boot toolbox to get the puller and not there, game over for me. I noticed there’s two empty slots, i’m assuming one of them is for the wheel cap puller but what should be in the other one?

I mean the rubber bung, do you actually remove it to put the car on axle stands then put it back on when finished? This bit here I’ve zoomed in on your picture with the cover off, I thought it was a rectangle hole and not exactly like what I posted haha whoops. Me thinking it was rectangle was hoping it would mean we could use one of these like on the Audi S3, that’s why when I looked I was disappointed to see I didn’t have that panel you removed

Do you remove the bungs first then put the axle stands there? Last thing I want is them to pop in and rattle around. I forgot to say I looked at my 2016 Superb and don’t see that panel you posted in the first picture at all, how odd

As the oil filter is on top, I would buy an oil extractor and leave the sump plug alone. Sorry read it wrong, thought you were going to DIY

So i’m still a bit confused and surprised there’s not more replies as people are doing their rear brakes on here. So just to confirm, use trolley jack on the sills with a hockey puck adaptor, 100% correct? If you don’t have a death wish and not just doing a tyre change you should be using an axle stand, but where? I’m guessing for the fronts you’d put the axle stand here? (If the picture does not post online, it’s the one with the rubber bung) If you do put your axle stand here do you remove the bung first, then place axle stand with a protective top? For the rears I can see a cover, I’ve only tried to remove it with my fingers and couldn’t but I’m going to guess it’s like the front with a rubber bung, either way is this where you put the axle stand for the rear?

Not sure if you can disable the dimming, but it would not necessarily dazzle other drivers but it would be annoying which is why it dims on and off.

You need what I have, which is an old office chair with the back removed, can wheel about then like Davros

No one?

Oddly enough I was looking at oil pumps yesterday not electric though. Found out the superb’s oil filter is removed from below so waste of time getting an oil extraction pump :(

I wish I had the cream leather as like you said makes it look airy and also less hot in summer. Gliptone liquid leather is what you need, as soon as leather seats look shiney it’s dirty :( It makes the car smell amazing too with its leather smell, though if you apply it without gloves it does smell like you’ve been fisting a cow

Simplest terms, mib2 is what’s in that car. mib2.5 is a larger screen, looks like a nightmare for sun as well (can’t confirm), less buttons and the buttons aren't buttons as it’s touch sensitive. Might be other things too to do with software but not sure

Just noticed the cream interior yum yum. Does look like the front drivers seat is a bit shiney so get some Gliptone on that :d

You can’t just swap your battery on these cars as it needs coding in first. Personally i’d wait until Monday and go for a longish drive. In my mind turning as much electric gadgets off as possible will recharge the battery quicker

You said vacuum and not hoover ❤️

I got a used one on PCP, didn’t have too much wiggle room I managed like £2k off and 2 services

I thought all Superbs had HDC and it’s automatic at least in DSG’s. I might be wrong but I thought when going downhill you use the brakes to get your speed then don’t touch the pedals

The wife’s Fiat 500 had an advisory on MOT for some corrosion on the rear axle. I looked underneath and the paint is flaking so needs some protection. I found out this is pretty common for Fiats so i’d like to do some preventative maintenance. I was looking around on the internet and found two products of interest, one is POR-15 and the other Bilt Hambee hydrate 80 (treats the rust) then UC from the same company Has anyone used either on here? I did look at hammerite underbody seal but it sounds like it stays sticky forever which sounds grim to me

Put the seat base all the way back, then all the way forward, then get into your position. press and hold set for about 3 seconds then immoderately press 1 (has to be within 10 seconds) but do it straight away.

Exactly that, when I’m eco is disengages then tend to coast a lot more, so I can apply the brakes for longer. At first I hated eco as the driving experience is more clunky feeling with lag etc but i’ve got use to it, I keep meaning to put it back into normal driving mode but keep forgetting