ApertureS

Skoda has never had maps from 3rd party apps show on the instrument cluster to my knowledge.

All them pipes and bulges on the OE piping aren’t just there for looks, they are all baffles and suppressors to dampen the noise that you are talking about

Check the throttle body wiring and operation. chances are it’s that and not the pedal.

So you modified the engine and caused an issue, and rather than fix the issue and revert to the working air box, you want to hide/cover it up? Doesn’t sound right dude An induction kit is there to remove the baffles and create induction noise and let the air flow more freely so it’s working spot on. Have you made sure you have no air leaks or anything else and if you have a MAF sensor that it’s plugged in and directed the right way?

Do you need the switches themselves or the trim that they go in? How did you manage to break them all? If it’s the switches you are after and you are In the U.K. I have a set of them I can happily sell you drop me a pm if so

You wont see any visible errors. The battery still needs to be coded correctly. The errors relating to steering are different and are expected. Regarding your charger - where specifically are you connecting the terminals of the battery charger? I hope not directly to the battery negative post.

Like most of us, you probably learnt very quickly why it was orange. Ouch.

Would need a lot changed, headlights, bumper, possibly bonnet and wings? Wiring is different, coding is very different and it also requires a A5 front camera and correct BCM and 4B module

Show us what you’ve done and what is not working and what tests you have carried out? if it’s as above and only got a power and ground it won’t do anything. It needs the lin wire and the correct signals and coding. it is a smart light with a micro controller that needs to be told what to do, can’t just be powered up

Stop changing parts without a proper diagnosis? It will cost you more in the long run. What fault codes are you getting and what diagnosis has been done? just cause you are loosing power does not mean it’s the accelerator pedal and chances it is are next to none

Always good to see people writing more guides! The airbag difference is a PITA. After 2020 i believe they kept the 'heated' airbag design for all cars with or without heated wheels.

I mean, if you are using an automatic car wash which use strong acids, the wheels are going to corrode. kurbing the wheels is not gonna help either as it opens the lacquer up to water ingress. you can refurb in a solid colour if you wanted, this will prevent the lacquer peel in the future but won’t help with any future kurb rash sorry

The case itself is just a piece of plastic. If there is a drain on the battery and a fault with the key itself then you’ll simply need to replace the entire key. The keys themselves are sealed fairly tight so unless it’s been submerged in water, the circuit board should be unaffected.

You could say the same thing about an entire car, no? it’s only a convenience, you could technically walk everywhere. and a set of aftermarket struts are around £250 so not exactly bank breaking in the entire scheme of things

Please also note- you will be left with a fault code in 5F which relates to software version incorrect after doing this update. to correct it you need to use an XOR calculator and a few numbers that can be found using the mib-helper above, enter this hex as an adaptation and the fault code clears itself.

All 4 windows will need to be reset by lowering them and continue to hold for 5 seconds, then do them up and continue to hold for 5 seconds. regarding the sun roof, does the codes clear? If not, there is a chance the motor internal sensor is faulty. You’ll need to run the basic settings on the blind using your snap on scanner.

As it’s been manually forced multiple times there are two possibilities. it will need recalibrating properly with odis - vcds can’t do this sorry The other possibility is the force can damage or break off the hall affect sensor in one/both of the struts meaning the struts may need replacing if it’s been repeatedly forced. will need plugging into a diagnostic computer to confirm it though

What does 15% performance increase mean? Clamping strength? Surface area? Coefficient of friction? Torque transfer ability? There are a lot of things this could cover and in all fairness, a ‘stage 1’ probably won’t require a performance clutch but it depends on what kind of power increases you would get and also depend on how heavy footed you are or want to be from a standstill, once you’re moving a performance clutch is hardly going to make any difference

Glowplugs are used all year round and for more than just cold starts. they are used for cylinder heating for emissions and also for post combustion heating to assist with dpf regenerations. Quite a few uses for a glow plug on a new diesel engine. depending on the engine it’s also worth noting you have 1 glow plug different to the rest with a pressure sensor on it

This will require a dataset/parameterization. Using odis and simply running the new module routine with a geko secure access account will allow the system to download and apply the correct dataset to the module. There will be no hunting for any files and it’s just a case of the vw servers will have the file you require and upload it straight to the module. there are other offline methods with odis offline or vcp but you need to find the correct xml dataset files yourself for this to be possible.

Not anymore they dont. Service intervals for timing belts have been changed to match the continent. So can be as high as 12 years for a belt. Although it should be checked every 20k

I would suggest reading through the VCDS tour before doing anything on your car. And also how to take and save a full autoscan. As much as someone telling you to just follow the button presses may help in some situations - youll want to have an understanding of what you are actually pressing and the consequences of that button press. Not every car or module is the same so some things may be different depending on the setup you have vs the setup someone else is following. https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/main_screen.php

There may be a chance the subwoofer has failed, I’ve seen them fail before. check for any fault codes such as open circuit to one of the woofers possibly?

Garages love to smother all hinges and locks in ‘white grease’ or any other variant. After a few weeks it’s less like grease and more like an abrasive glue. All the dirt and dust from the environment sticks to it, creates a tacky paste that binds up moving parts and also wears any coatings or metal down causing rust to form. Leaving a component like this completely dry is how it should be, if it’s dry, nothing will really stick and the metal is powder coated or protected to prevent rust formation so it should be perfectly fine. If you really did want to lubricate it, a dry graphite based lubricant is your best bet. same goes for door latches - they get filled with grease causing binding, motors to fail and plastic parts to swell. edit: the only other thing you can do with hinges and the bonnet latch is to clean the grease regularly and regressed to prevent the dirt getting into the pivot points

someone has changed the splash screen as the superb didn’t come in a VRS model. Some of the options are skoda, sportline, L&K, vrs, canton and a few more variants