ApertureS

I know its me being pedantic but copper based anti seize is conductive and actually can cause corrosion between different materials. It was perfectly fine on old cars where everything was steel or iron and the voltage differential wasnt much. Whereas on steel to alloy/aluminum there is a much larger voltage difference causing more corrosion. Instead a isolating anti seize should be used such as a ceramic or ptfe paste based one as these handle high temperatures also for glow plugs and such. I recommend Febi 26712 as a tiny amount goes a very very long way. See below for a chart showing what materials can cause more corrosion - the further from 0 the number (voltage), the more electrons flow and the more corrosion that occurs.

Even 35k of 'riding' a dsg clutch wouldnt wear it to that point due to the oil cooling features on the clutch packs preventing them from overheating and disintegrating from heat. They also have temperature sensors where if the clutch gets too hot it simply disengages it until its cooled down and only allows the other gearset to work. Chances are it was incorrectly shimmed and caused excessive pressure on the friction material and has worn the clutch out that way. Or possibly inferior parts.

To check the timing using the correct tools should take no longer than 30 minutes or so as its a bolt/pin and a bracket with locating pins, fairly straight forward so no reason for a garage to try and rip you off. If youre sceptical, ask for photos of the timing pins in their correct locations and fitted to the car.

ENG141649-ENG122211,210,214,213,204,203 Are what control the dynamic animations for the indicators in different circumstances. Please read above, and 204 must be inactive which I think was dynamic on unlock, else you loose the dynamic taillight unlock animations

It will be Dimmwert AB if not specified

At least yours got sorted nice and straight forward! Ive been waiting over a month for autoglass to arrange my genuine screen, and now they have finally ordered it, it’s on back order indefinitely…. That’s really useful for me lol

Find attached my notes page for the BCM 09 adaptations. It may vary as you have lowline lamps and mine were originally highline. The numbers are related to the leuchte settings in 09 - 18 is leuchte18 which is rear left indicator for example. Type is LastTyp which sets the type of bulb you are fitting Dimmwert requires changing for a few from halogen 100 to LED 127 " is same as the one above Leuchte27 found at the bottom is only relevant if you are trying to add the animation and also the associated wire and adaptations. If you add Leuchte27 then you need to adjust 09 adaptations ENG141649-ENG122211,210,214,213,204,203. These control the dynamic indicators Make sure to leave ENG122204 inactive else the unlock animation will not work!

Welcome to the forum - a more relevant and descriptive thread title would help people to find your post and offer their assistance, it also helps future people to search for similar problems and come across your thread. the only things that can be updated via the radio is the radio firmware and maps. Anything else must be done using dealer specific diagnostic tooling.

If you have DCC the headlights read the levels using all 3 sensors via the DCC control module. if you have non dcc it reads via 1 sensor which feeds to the body control module

Turn off voice enhancement in the sound settings

There are only 3 level sensors with DCC, if the car has standard suspension it only has a rear level sensor

Dont use the part numbers in the guide for the handles as they relate to a tiguan! https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/22108/ The wiring 6 pins + 2 grounds and the very easy coding is all that is required. Hardest part is running the wires properly and getting the handles painted.

Your two options are; Replace your open diff with a LSD differential or Replace the gearbox, fit an external electronically locked differential and all associated parts and modules as well as some custom coding - unsure if anyone has undertaken this before!

What kind of reverse camera are you fitting that requires a reverse light signal? Sounds like the wrong part. The correct setup uses canbus and the 5F radio to control it. Also, as the car has bulb circuit monitoring the wire is never truely 'dead' there is always a small amount of voltage running through to check the bulb isnt blown so this kind of setup does not always work.

Surprisingly not as much as you may think Without getting the handles painted I can offer it for my customers for around £250 in parts max, plus around 6-8 hours of labour. of course doing it yourself is also an option to save on labour and the relevant guides can be found on Ross-tech

We now have rear kessy handles working as well as fully working rear door warning lamps!

You are telling us in the span of a year between services you are pulling an EXTRA 2-3 litres on top of the standard fill amount of around 4-5 litres? If so, you have massive piston blow by during DPF regens or you have a coolant leak.

I would be guessing either component protection has came on the gateway or bcm. If not, possibly a faulty bcm module. A fault scan would be my first call

The sticky layer that is used is often 3M VHB tape. I am going to be stripping mine down and adding this to stop the clonking noise. Hopefully it sorts it. shame when they are brand new genuine pads and both front and rear knock slightly

Sadly this is a big common issue on the mqb platform for a lot of people. genuine pads are just as bad as I’ve found out. if you look on any of the mk7 golf forums there are a lot of complaints of it too. and Skoda/vw is yet to bring out a solution.

People that keep suggesting moving the seat as the be all end all, it isnt sadly. There are 6 axis positions to the memory seat - lumbar up/down, lumbar forward/back, backrest tilt, height, rake and leg adjustments. All 6 of these need to meet a set specification for the memory to work. The specification is for each of the above as follows: Normed, Standardized, Block1, Block2, Max travel. The seat must first be standardized with a diagnostic tool - this will clear Block1 and Block2 and max travel and also reset the status and error counter. The diagnostic tool will then move the seat to its extremes on the axis and use this to create a Block1 input then using the data that is stored it will preempt the max travel position. The module will now show as 'never normed'. At this point the user moves the seat to its extremes of the travel on all axis, this will confirm the Block1 to be as before, then when moved to Block2 it will confirm it is what was expected for max travel and as long as it is within the spec that was expected it will change the status to 'normed'. Now do the same for all the axis and you will hear a bong song. The issue you are probably facing is either the Block1 and Block2 have lost a value or, if the motor has managed to skip a times (almost like slipping its timing) then when it gets to an extreme of its travel it will realize a Block1 or Block2 is beyond the stored values and loose its standardization. The only axis that behaves any different and it depends on module coding is seat backrest tilt which is set to stop at its Block2 limit as expected, but on some, you can press the tilt back button again and it will continue past its 'safe stop' to allow user controlled full reclining without protections to the point you can crush the rear seats if you felt so inclined. And this will not throw any errors or loose the adaptations.

Most items on a service schedule are done by mileage and time, whichever is sooner. So if the 12 months has elapsed you should still be looking at getting in changed. the other thing to consider is the mileage will not decrease with excessive idling which will dilute and degrade the oil too. (Not saying you are, just that certain factors can’t be taken into account hence the 12 months) (unless you’re on a variable service setup)

What options do you have? Its best to do all axis individually, if you do them all together the seat can collide with the headliner.

no this kit will not work and is designed for older superbs (not that I’d recommend a kit that ‘self codes’ and you don’t know what it’s actually doing) your vehicle most likely has a mib3 headunit and this uses Ethernet, not video+canbus. There is currently no genuine retrofit kit available for these cars. I believe there is an aftermarket kit available but it is not plug and play at all and needs to be coded with odis as your car modules will be locked with SFD.

Yes with keyless system it can be done when the vehicle is locked or unlocked as long as the key is in the vicinity of the tailgate of course.