ApertureS

Apologies. Seems ive updated both flash versions in odx and xml. The 3rd one is dataset but for B version. Ive attached C version Arteon dataset as you need. 14-Arteon DCC 5q0907376C.xml Edit: Ive also attached a passat dataset 14_5Q0907376C_passat_.xml

Ive now got 2 GATEWAY datasets for a superb - They are unmodified - Im not saying use any of this stuff without triple checking its what you need. The 2 gateway files below may come in handy for someone to tinker with and experiment with the slider. I personally wouldnt upload to the car though. If I was you guys, I would find someone with ODIS, pull the original file from your vehicle and intercept it. Modify it to your liking, then offline upload it. If you do it any other way with someone elses dataset you risk not having the correct data on there for your car. 3Q0907530C_Superb_3.xml 3Q0907530AC_Superb_3.xml

Look at my edit above, should get you started

Ive attached a updated firmware - Seems to be for VW but cant tell what model, if its arteon or what. EDIT: Ive also got 2 datasets for DCC - second one is a leon, unsure on the first one. FL_5Q0907376C__0130.odx leon_dcc_5q0907376b.xml FL_5Q0907376C__0130.xml

People need to stop fitting Brembo brakes, there are loads of posts in this forum and others about people fitting Brembo and getting new noises or knocking sounds. The quality of the pads is shocking. Try a different, Better brand and come back to us with the results? And regarding the braking thing youre saying - This sounds like the hill hold assist.

Cardiagn.com is what he meant also, it’s not an easy job I promise you, the seat back doesn’t come off. It’s a stuck on piece of fabric.clips all round the side need to come off to release the seat cover, unclipping it will break some clips and bend some fitting points. Takes a good few patient hours if you can bend the fabric out the way enough that’s fine but you may need hog rings and hog ring pliers to take the fabric off fully

It can be done for all. But every user would need a custom dataset making, sadly not a one size fits all jobby.

So I think you’re getting a bit confused. Number 4 is a one time use airbag controlled system, all of the airbag system is controlled by the airbag module which is fused. the secondary system which is number 5 has its own fuse as the motors draw a lot of power for the reversible seatbelt tensioners. and your mention of door bars exploding to strengthen the doors, i have never heard of that and I’m happy to be proven wrong but that sounds like a terrible idea. A major part of life saving systems is still to allow egress of the vehicle after an accident, by pinning the doors shut you’d prevent that. Having them mechanically or electronically retract after accident is not reliable as metals can twist and keep the doors from opening. same way although a seatbelt will lock you in place in an accident, even hanging upside down with your full weight on the belt, the buckle will still open with relative ease with all that pressure on it.

It’s actually very different than putting the car into neutral. when a car is in neutral fuel is being used to keep the engine ticking over. when you coast the injectors cut off/use hardly any fuel as the rotation of the wheels is used to keep the engine going. when you’re in E mode and coasting I believe the clutches may still be slightly engaged just enough to put the engine into overrun mode and keep it running with no or hardly any fuel usage. the difference between no fuel or a tiny bit of fuel usage is petrol will just turn injectors off, diesel will still use a tiny bit on overrun

No your car does not have them. As you can see in the picture of your fuse box, only 1 terminal of each fuse slot 13 and 41 is occupied, this is the bus bar, the lower terminal has nothing meaning your car does not have them. Edit: If anyone else comes across this thread and would like to understand it all a bit more, the seat belt itself has 5 safety systems (all at a very basic overview below) The first is a torsion bar - Simply a metal bar made to deform if extreme loads are placed on the belt so the belt will have a measured amount of give to prevent too much cutting in to you when in an accident Second we have a roll over lock - A metal ball bearing will lock the seat belt from releasing further if the vehicle is at a major angle Third is the inertia lock which if the belt is pulled very hard or fast the mechanical prongs will lock the belt from extending any further Forth is when we get in to the 2 electrical systems - First is the single use seat belt tensioner - this is a electronically controlled system by the airbag module which will fire a small explosive which will tighten the seat belt up completely and take up any slack at the time of an accident occuring. The final electrical system as mentioned in this article is not a common one of the vw platform as normally an optional extra but often called PreSafe Assist - This is a non destructive and reusable system which will sense a possible incoming accident and react in 2 ways - First will wind all 4 windows up EXTREMELY quickly and close the sun roof. The second part that relates to this system are exactly the same as above in terms of a seat belt tensioner to take up all slack and put you in the optimal place for a face full of airbag. But it does this using a very very quick and torquey motor which will very quickly spool the seat belt of any occupied seat till its tight and holding the user firmly in their seat.

I get that, but if VW could save money and make a single part, they would, the fact they have made 2 means there will be something different, not sure what though.

I would doubt it. 3V0 specifies all superbs 3V9 is estate 3V5 is hatch so the fact they make a 3v9 and a 3v5 suggests there will be differences.

Ill tell you now, youre doing yourself a favor by not setting it up. I set mine up and then changed it when I moved, im still inundated with phone calls once a month or so asking me to book my car in with them. Ive told them to delete my records but they keep calling. I never used them, just put them as my local dealer on the app. Might just be my experience though

Youre in luck, this is what youre after. https://www.glaskugelservice.de/codierung/dcc-auf-index-c https://github.com/jilleb/MQB-FPA The first link is bringing the DCC module up to the new spec. The second link is the CUSTOM driver profile file you have to make to accommodate the new values 1-15 not 1-3. Should be all you need.

So many more detials are required - Who has told you the turbo has failed, how have they diagnosed it, what are the symptoms? If youre gonna replace a turbo, youll want a garage to change it and 99% of garages will supply the turbo and fitting a second hand one, youll struggle to find a garage willing to do it, or at least they wont warrant it. Its also not as simple as replace the turbo, you need to find out what has failed and the reason, else it will just happen again.

This would instantly be throwing red flags for me, the unit youre fitting is gonna be causing a lot of errors by the looks of it and having databus errors means things arent communicating as they should. The 5F unit is a big part of the canbus and general car network so removing it will cause issues. This dash fault wont be able to clear with the aftermarket unit as the road sign recognition uses fusion mode using the original GPS location and map data aswell as the front camera.

Definitely not! You risk some major issues doing this. Spark plugs have mostly done away with the crush washer and instead use a conical seat now. Torque settings can be as low as 10Nm on some cars now and the top end of the scale is 30Nm or near enough. Doing a half turn or 2/3 of a turn can completely overtighten them. Heads are getting even thinner now and I wouldnt want to be the one that pulls the plug out the head. The second thing is, the spark gap is positioned on newer engines with millimeter precision to create the best burn with direct injection engines so over or under torquing will place it in the non optimal place (difference will be negligible i know) The last thing I wanted to add is, had a new Volvo XC90 in the workshop that was serviced and the tech torqued all his plugs on all makes and models to 35Nm, the porcelain broke off the end of the plug as it stretched it too far and destroyed the engine. Torque setting should of been only 20 or so. That small difference cost a whole lot of cash. Just my input that telling someone to just give it a good nip could cause massive issues and them issues wouldnt come back to you, it would be the poor forum user that has possibly caused massive issues by not following precision advice for that specific car/model/engine.

So many things I could pick out of this video.... Specialist EV brake fluid - no its just DOT 4 More expensive than servicing a normal car - No its £170 at his prices every 4 years... £42 a year Locking out the HV system - He only states hes working near the system, not had to disconnect any components or work on any HV components so there should be NO need to disconnect the service loop, Youre 'working' near the HV system when you drive the car, its no different, a safe system shouldnt need locking out to touch any of the components externally or even work near them. Specific to the Zoe, which everyone knows has 2 problems, its a renault, and its a zoe. At 4 years brake fluid is still testing okay so could go even longer. 45 minutes to lock the EV system out - takes all of 5 minutes to disconnect the battery, lift the plate and pull the service fuse 30/40 minutes doing the standard brake bleed - a decent bleeder will do it all in 10/15 mins max if youre pulling a full litre I get they have to charge standard labor times opposed to how fast they work but dont make a video saying things take this long - say the book time is X amount... Now if we are gonna talk about true costs of a EV excluding the main HV battery. Then there are a few main things to consider - Brakes will not wear out nearly as much BUT they will need changing just as much due to corrosion and build up from not being used due to dynamic regen braking. There is occasionally a air filter for the HV battery cooling depending on setup, not generally expensive either. And a pollen filter. Tyres can often be a bit more expensive as there is no engine noise the tyre noise is a lot more apparent so foam filled tyres can sometimes be used. Basically, the EV servicing costs on the whole are cheaper than a standard combustion engine car. -Hybrid trained tech

Being a 2014 mk2 youll be looking for the below section of the forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk-ii/ A moderator should move your thread over shortly

You won’t have access to any of the oem menus and settings, can’t adjust anything for hvac, any of the adas systems or such as I very much doubt there will be a aftermarket setup to cover that. Unless I’m wrong? im also assuming the new system won’t have most so can’t be used with canton, tv tuner or virtual cockpit

You do know you’ll be loosing a lot of functionality with a aftermarket headunit normally? out of interest what sold it for you as an upgrade and what features did you gain?

I mean yeah it’s the way forward for all manufacturers. Easier on production lines and means a constant cash flow even after the original purchase. Also means for the hackers and retrofitters out there that we can probably end up turning everything on without a time limit. And it will still only be certain things that are done, they won’t fit absolutely everything. But even so, not sure what it has to do with a detailed vin print out

I dont have a copy of the instructions but ive fitted the kits, what was it you wanted to know and ill help you out with the bits i remember off the top of my head.

🙂 ɯnɹoɟ ǝɥʇ oʇ ǝɯoɔlǝM

Thats an interesting one, you got the tpi number? Id love to read up on what they find a cause of it being.