Paws4Thot

@Kyoki It might be a little tappety; does it get quieter as it warms up?

1) Fix the actual problem 2) Turn off the latching warning light using VCDS or a dealership computer.

The smell (if any) is very diagnostic. If you have the DERV smell, then you have either failed glow plugs or they weren't reconnected properly when you changed the head gasket. The fact that it clears fast is a comment on how fast the TDi (any tune) head warms up.

No. It's not even like the 0W (or 5W) value will apply once the engine's been running about 2 minutes (since the oil won't be at 0C any more). The one difference it might make is that you have "some" oil pressure before the engine even fires with 0W (I did with Mobil 1).

White smoke, smelling of DERV? I've got an idea and the answer to this will confirm or deny it.

@Kirky2k2 @MarkyG82 - I am a professional software engineer, but when it comes to remapping cars I only know enough to know that if you foul things up you can totally brick the ECU. I'd do my own work on an Emerald or a Megasquirt, but not on a manufacturer system.

Bedrock VW in Motherwell. They're even pure dead handy for you to visit.

It's probably a broken wire in the rubber bellows to that door. Taking it much further requires access to the car, and a multimeter.

Correction and possible explanation inline, italic. More seriously, it's a weighted average figure that places more emphasis on recent miles. I've used my old Octavia (TDi 110) mostly for commuting including a 1 mile climb at journey end going to work. I got an acceptable overall consumption. I also used it for meeting people off a car ferry, covering about twice the distance on a more level route including my commute except for that last mile. I could complete the trip to the ferry terminal with more remaining range than I started with. So I think you're placing too much reliance on the trip computer figures.

Too hot in the workshop and/or using too much hardener.

Fastest/cheapest way to get a diagnostic then would be a mobile a/c service or Kwik Fit's "N Colder or you don't pay" offer. I leave sorting out exact details to you since you know your exact postal address.

Do you get aviating porcines often in Bucks?

OTOH it also increases your risk of bricking the car.

Erwin.

It would be a coincidence, but it could also be a bad solenoid...

Er, that's a set screw, not a bolt. The threads go all the way up to the head.

That's an Engine Management System light, not just an emissions light.

At a guess...

@kubalol90 - When you removed the resonator, you changed the engine back pressure. This could cause a misfire, and sorting that means either replacing the resonator or remapping the engine.

Dunno. Is the dipstick tube over the sump well so that the extractor can reach the base of the well?

Maybe, if the reflector is designed for the different beam pattern, but again, since you're not using ballasts you have more lumens down the road (probably) than you should...

Put proper bulbs back, or fit ballasts to the LEDs, thus undoing any "advantage" they offered.

It does; ISTR 35mph/1000rpm in top, but I think you can change the CRP set to lower this.

One car I had, the reversing lights flashed when you went in or out of reverse, and could be held on by holding the stick to the outside of the gate. Issue was a bent switch bracket, which we just lived with, and testing yours should be free...

The service receptionist at a main stealer is paid to take your money, not to know about cars.