pikpilot

Have you double checked the part number of the new against the old? In some cases where you may expect part numbers to be the same for left and right drive cars, they in fact different.

Probably a plastic moulding rubbing against another part (which is probably another piece of plastic). Have you taken out any parts recently such as the glove box or the central console? It will be worse when you produce a high force between the parts such as when accelerating hard or decelerating/braking. When you do find where it is rubbing, glue a small piece of thin felt to one of the parts before re assembly.

Just checked my handbook (for a related similar vehicle) and it the exact opposite: w5w in the front and w3w in the rear.

Brown wire goes to an earth terminal in the Octavia and is probably the same in your Superb.

A single light is probably a poor connection but multiple lights in my opinion is not the cluster at fault but external connections or source. I think the water induced faults were actually below the dash panel, perhaps in the convenience unit. I never got to explore as I wanted a quick fix - drying out the car was my fix.

It could be water or high humidity in the car. I and others had this problem but in all cases there were other dash lights glowing as well as the indicator. Leaving the doors open on a warm sunny day was the cure. Alternatively there is a poor ground connection for the dash panel.

I bought mine in Halfords.

It should be possible to tell by decoding the build codes shown on a label near the spare wheel. A very basic model will have a single tone horn and code 8Y1 (two tone horn) will be missing. The code for remote locking is 8QL but in my translated decode list it is a poor translation as it says "8QL Key for locking system: Key for locking system with remote control" However, I did quick search for VW build codes and it said " 8QL Key for locking system with remote control" So my view is that if you have 8QL on your build list then you should have two remote keys. New keys from Skoda are expensive but you will probably have to use them to get the new keys programmed to the car. If remote central locking was fitted when new I don't think it is feasible to fit an aftermarket remote unit as you will lose other features such as down lights in the wing mirrors, lights in the lower doors, door mirror heating etc as these are controlled by your current locking system.

You should really get a comprehensive diagnostic and history report with something like VAG Com. My thoughts are turning to a sensor failure such as a crankshaft or camshaft sensor failure.

I assume when you say the tailgate does that open with central that you mean it doesn't unlock (these models don't have a tailgate lift feature) If I was you I would look at the part number on the old unit and see how much a new one would be before exploring too far. Only other check to do first is to see if any voltage appears on the plug contacts when locking/unlocking.

When did replace the turbo? The whining is caused by the bearings in the new turbo. When it happened on a previous car of mine it soon got so loud that pedestrians looked round to see if I was a police car! Glow plug blinking is an indication of a fault - probably not able to attain required boost. Fault codes will be stored so you can access them through the diagnostic port. What is the engine code? There is a label in the handbook and by the spare wheel, with the model build data.

There was a recent thread on the subject concerning rebuilding a BMM (?) engine following a timing belt/ chain breakage. Do a search as guidance. It is likely that you will have to replace bent conrods. Please put your model and engine code in your details, as this helps the helpers. The engine code can be found on two stickers - one in the handbook and one in the boot by the spare wheel.

There are signals also from the controller in the drivers door to the near side doors. Check for wire breaks in the body to drivers door snake.

Two possibilities. Firstly, You have an upstream fuse blown. Check the fuses in the engine bay fuse box behind and to the left of the battery. Secondly, if the engine starts and runs for about ten seconds it indicates that the immobiliser has cut the engine. Try the second key. Beyond that, the next step is to read the stored fault codes. Code readers are cheap for a basic unit with no built in decoding such as a ELM 327 and suitable software on your phone etc. Once you have the code numbers they can be decoded by many online sites or by making a search for the code number.

Sit on the driver's seat with your legs hanging out so you can see the fuse panel shown in your photo. Then hold the fuse cover you unclipped by your knees so that the fuse location diagram is facing the the fuse panel and you can see both. Being a right hand drive car and the diagram is for a LHD car, you should be able count along each fuse location and marry up your car with diagram. Tell us what the diagram says is the function for each of your circled fuses.

I know it is an old thread but I thought it was worth reminding us that if the car is stationary, engine protection will not allow you to rev the engine above ~3000 rpm.

Well done. You may have had some moisture in the connector. Keep an eye on all the power cables, particularly for corrosion on the power wires where they go into the crimp connector. Check also at the earth wire on the alternator where it goes to the engine/body as this comes up quite often.

With engine running and a fully charged known to be good battery, try turning the wheels from full left to full right a couple of times to see if it resets its knowledge of where the stops are.

Yes, as you suggest. There are four small screws once the glass is out to release the lower part of the cover. The indicator is an LED so it may not be the cause of not working. You should be able pull the glass out by moving it to point inwards and then pulling the glass out by putting your fingers behind and pulling. That's the theory but mine was so tight I was in danger of breaking the mirror. In the end I gave a new puddle light bulb to the Skoda Garage and asked them to do it as the car was with them for other work.

Can't help you too much on this as i do not have wiring diagram for your version. The large power cables go to few big loads but mostly to other other fuseboards where they supply small fuses going to smaller loads. One way to get a clue is to see which other smaller loads are not working, such as wipers, window raise/lower, radio etc etc. On the ecm question, Disconnect the battery then unplug the cable again and examine for bent contacts, chafed wires or other damage.

It would be better to fix the wiring first before looking again at the flap motor as it will be getting a reduced voltage via the corroded cables. This will reduce the power of the motor as it is a dc motor. Once the cables are fixed the flap motor may not need any attention. There is a procedure to test and reset all the flap motors by pressing a combination of climatronic buttons. The exact buttons to use varies with the model year. There are videos on line which show how to do it on certain models.

1) Flap motor. I do know whether the motors are small dc motors or, more likely stepper motors. That is what I would have used if I was designing it. You would need specialist equipment to test a stepper motor outside the car. Cables. As Pete said, first repair the damaged cables. I would say the likely cause of your problem is the corrosion of the 60A and 100A cables at their terminations shown in your second picture. The 100A double black cable has its strands of wire so badly corroded that it is almost certain to be the cause of your Terminal 30 fault code. Make repairs to both the 60A double cable and the 100a black double cable. I would suggest letting an auto electrician do the work as he will have the the correct cable, crimp connector and crimping tools. He may find other places with cable corrosion that is not in your photos. Did you find any corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board?

This is one of the signs of the nylon gears on the flap motor are jammed or slipping. You may need to change the appropriate flap motor. Terminal 30 is a high current supply from the battery and goes to many fuses. So if you have corrosion in its feed or output connection this give this fault code. You have not put your model, model year, or country detail below your name so I have to guess you are in Scandinavia, Iceland or a Baltic state as you also have an auxiliary heater (almost unknown in the UK). Disconnect the battery then look at the bottom of the fuseboard in the engine bay. Some people have reported corrosion on the bottom of the printed circuit board board and the connections to the fuses. Failure of a supply from terminal 30 will account for many of the symptoms mentioned Once we have the details of your car I am sure someone will come along with further help based on your particular car's wiring diagram.

Watch the level in the coolant tank as you rev the engine. Does the level go down? Is the level correct when idling?

It is probably a battery related problem, which does not mean the battery is dead. It could be an alternator problem, slipping aux belt, a fuse blown, corroded earth strap etc. Use a multimeter to help find the cause or take the car an automotive electrician.