pikpilot

I bought an OBD2 reader that plugs into the diagnostic port and then connects to a variety of software packages on a laptop or ipad. Much more flexible and you are not dependant on the interpretation in the scanner - and much cheaper.

Check your battery voltage with a multimeter (if you have one) first thing in the morning and before turning on the ignition. The only time I had this chime, it was low battery volts. It could be the alternator is not producing enough charge or you have a low constant discharge when the car is locked. To check the possibility, connect jump start leads between your battery and the battery on another car. Start the other car before starting yours.

Have you looked up this code on the Ross-Tech wiki? If not, here is link to their forum and posts by others with the same code issue. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=001542

These two links show more information on your fault codes and further links to people who had the same problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=p0087 Possible fuel supply problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=p0121 Possible throttle position sensor fault. With the ignition on and the engine not running, it is normal to have the battery light on as it indicates the alternator is not charging the battery. It should go off as soon as the engine starts. The red steering wheel icon may be an indication that battery has low charge - too low a voltage to run the power steering. When did you last change the battery? It may be its capacity is getting low. Give it a charge before trying again.

Let us know if they fail or not after a year or so. The location of DRLs is subject to much vibration of the lamp. That is why the special long life filaments were used ex factory. Leds should not suffer as much - it depends on the construction.

I doubt you would get a spare board. Best bet would be a motor from a scrap car dealer but check part numbers are the same as I suspect later units may have electronics with more features. First I would check your old board for sign of corrosion or dry joints (look for cracks in the solder or dull/crystalline appearance). Resolder as appropriate.

I suspect the problem is that the alarm module has a dud internal battery, particularly if it was not changed since new. With the fuse in place it will get a supply from the car and give an alarm to indicate it is faulty.

The sticker is near the spare wheel.

There are three main engines of different power in the family. CAYA,CAYB and CAYC rising in increasing power. CAYA is in the Polo. Here is the full list of specifications:- 55 kW (75 PS; 74 bhp) at 4,000 rpm; 195 N⋅m (144 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYA (Polo and Fabia only) 55 kW (75 PS; 74 bhp) at 3,000-4,000 rpm; 225 N⋅m (166 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,250 rpm — CAYE (Caddy only) 66 kW (90 PS; 89 bhp) at 4,200 rpm; 230 N⋅m (170 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYB 75 kW (102 PS; 101 bhp) at 4,400 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYD (Caddy only) 77 kW (105 PS; 103 bhp) at 4,400 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYC 85 kW (116 PS; 114 bhp) at 4,400 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 2,000-2,500 rpm — CEKA (Mexico only)

You don't give your engine code but I remember a thread on here about confusion on which fuel filter to fit. There were two type/makes, one of which caused something similar if I remember correctly. Do a google search using this forum as the first search terms followed by your own query. Perhaps this reply will jog the memory of others.

Yes, there is on mine.

Does it go off immediately you lock it or after a short wait? If the latter then it has set the alarm system to active but then picks up the fact that one of the sensors shows an alarm condition such as an open boot. Before and after you lock the car, check the dash display for an open door, boot or bonnet icon.

If the resistor stack has burnt out/gone open circuit then only the highest speed will work. It is found near the blower fan.

Welcome to the forum. There is a thread above this, in the stickies section, that allows you download a copy of your drivers' manual. It is always helpful when answering questions if the person asking for help includes the year of build and engine code. The answer to your question depends on the year in order to determine whether it is pre or post facelift. Hence download the manual first to see if that answers your question.

A quick search on the Ross Tech forum suggests :- 10158 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit (Q11)

As it is a high mileage 10 year old car I would start by looking for corrosion or loose connections on all cables from the battery to the electric power steering. That includes the high current fuses in the battery fusebox, adjacent to the battery.

Try pressing and holding the central lock/unlock button. If this does not work then the feature needs activating. If you have a multifunction steering wheel then you may find the previous owner has turned off the feature and you can turn it on again. It can also be activated by the Carista app or by VCDS. Other options include unlocking all the doors or just the drivers' door

Impossible to tell as siren failure is not a common fault. Could be an indication of a failing alarm battery. If your car is over 10 years old then I suggest you replace the alarm unit as it is likely to be running on borrowed time.

If it is similar to the radio fitted to MK1 Octavias, there were many illustrates threads on how to disassemble, retrieve the CD and reaseble again. See if they are still there. Basically it is just a case of taking it apart and remembering where the various springs go.

It is most likely a poor connection with these possibilities: - corrosion at the contacts in the bulb holder - if it is a double filament bulb it has been put in the wrong way round - a poor supply or earth connection at the bulb holder - a poor earth connection where the earth wire joins the earth stud in the left hand side of the boot - general corrosion of earth wire and stud in the boot caused by water or (more likely) rear screen wash liquid. [Note that if the rear screen wash has a low concentration then in winter it can freeze and push open the pipe connection] If you have a multimeter you can check all connections one by one.

Have you got corning lights selected via Carista?

The - sign indicates it is now 196 days since it told you that a service is due.

service display.wmv You say your car is a facelift model so I made a short video to show you how to read the time and miles left before a service is required. NOTE on facelift models you can ONLY reset the service to zero when the spanner is showing as well. The video starts with the ignition ON. You will see me click the speedo stalk one click at a time. It starts by allowing a time reset. When the spanner shows on the display you will see 105 for time in the centre of the display and 8000 miles opposite the spanner. This means there is 105 days left OR 8000 miles before SERVICE REQUIRED comes up again. From memory I remember you need to push the knob in order to do a reset. (but only if the spanner is showing on the normal display). You can click the knob left and right to choose your direction around the loop of functions

I had assumed you had used the speedo knob mentioned above to go through the menu after my last post. It gives you time and miles info to next service.

How long in days and miles does it say it is before the next service?