pikpilot

As said earlier in this thread, that is the beeper associated with the tow bar electrics which confirms that the trailer indicators are working. It would be worth looking at all connectors behind the side panel, especially where all the brown earth wires go to a body fixing. Look for corrosion similar to that which you found earlier. It is not unknown for the washer pipe to disconnect itself in freezing conditions and the liquid cause corrosion. (Note it only happens when the washer liquid is too weak. With a stronger concentration it will not freeze). Again as said earlier, check the wiring to the towbar socket as corrosion there can fool the electronics into thinking a trailer is attached if the corrosion provides a sneak path.

I have the same engine, 71k miles and 10 years old too. I can pick up smoothly in any gear from just below 1200 rpm (light throttle initially) but normally I don't go that low. Did your car have the diesel-gate fix? If so I would suspect an injector problem.

The Skoda increase last year to £600 led me look elsewhere. I found garage that specialises in VAG cars and they charged just under £500 including water pump and antifreeze.

I agree with Pete. Isn't there a water cooled oil cooler down there too or am I thinking about another engine? Certainly looks like a small water leak, so small it may not show up for a long time on the coolant level. Can you put a thin cloth or a cold metal object in the "smoke" to confirm it is water vapour.

I used the Carista app to set up coming home lights plus many other useful features that are otherwise only available with VCDS

Yes, I knew the Vrs was different. Do you have a Maxi-Dot display? This has functions not available on the multifunctional display on the Elegance trim.

And my facelift model uses dipped beam and side lights for coming home lights. You activate it by flashing the main beam. When you open the door the dipped beams come and will stay on if any door or the boot is open. When you lock the car the lights stay on for a fixed time. I do not have leaving home lights available. I believe the Vrs uses a different arrangement.

Normal operation. With a quick blip and return on the switch arm it should sweep once then stop. If you keep the arm in the on position it repeats the single sweeps roughly about every10 seconds until the arm is brought back again. If the feature is enabled, it will give multiple single sweeps of the rear wiper whilst the car is in reverse and auto wipers on the front screen has detected rain. Yours may be a failed switch on the control arm.

....and with the bonnet open?

Yes, it is to discriminate against brake lights. With two rear fogs lit people could believe you were braking apparently and also less likely to realise when the same intensity brake lights are actually switched on.

Sorry Pete I completely missed that. Must be getting old!

In my interpretation, D >> - 05.12.2010 means all dates before 5 Dec 2010 [for the C version] and D - 06.12.2010 >> means from 6 Dec 2010 onwards. [for the B version] How do you read it?

Pete, here is the page with information in two blue boxes

Do you know what the difference is between 1K0 951 605C and 1K8 951 605C?

And Skoda quoted me £273.59 to replace my H12 alarm for my 2012 car [2011 build]. 7ZAP says that from 6 Dec 2010 onwards, part number 1K8 951 605B is used. Interestingly 1K8 951 605C ceased being used at 5 Dec 2010. It looks like VAG went back to previous version.

That is correct. It has three states: flashing, (initially fast then slows down) - everything ok when locked; solid on - usually a fault in the door locking system; off entirely - only had this when I had a recent problem with the alarm system. Problem was its internal battery was flat. Could also be be caused by broken wire I suspect. H12 alarms have a 6 year recommendation for change according to Skoda.

As Pete said, but expect the alarm to randomly go off as it recharges its own battery. My recent experience is that it takes up to a week to recharge the internal alarm battery and during that time you will have random operation of the sounder or random operation of the flashers (all indicators together) or both together.

Never tried unplugging it but I would expect to see many fault codes stored for "loss of communication with the Alarm unit"

Can't get your video to play, however at 12 years old it is highly likely that the battery in the alarm unit is defunct or nearly so. There will be a fault code stored on your car which may also show whether the alarm unit is an H09 or H12. The alarm unit can be replaced using the instructions in the link below. You can just open up the failed alarm and replace the battery but there is a high possibility the the battery has leaked and damaged the printed circuit board. Skoda want £274 for parts and labour to replace an H12 alarm unit. Recommendation is to change every 6 years. Alternatively, you will find pre-owned units advertised on line at around £35 and up. but chances are they will not last as they have been on a shelf for a while with no charge from a main battery and most are more than 6 years old. There used be a Chinese source but has dried up recently. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500927-guide-to-repair-bosch-h12-alarm-siren/

So that I understand your problem am I right in saying: 1) alarm behaves as expected except:- 2) when you open a door the alarm sounds? How are you unlocking the door - key or remote? 3) red led is not lit at any time

Does the driver's door open icon show on the display? If not, release the elephant trunk cable from door to the body, at the body. Look for broken wires. If non then wiggle the wiring back and forth and see if the icon comes on. Failing that, you probably need to investigate/replace the locking unit in the door. Coincidently my car came up with 01134 (Alarm Module H12) recently following an unusual main battery failure (zero volts and high impedance). During the time the battery was effectively non-existent, the alarm battery lost a lot of charge. It took nearly a week for it to recharge from the new main battery. I had the 01134 (and the horn going off occasionally) during that time. The alarm module is a complete unit (inc battery) accessed by removing the front driver's side wheel and wheel arch cover. Many How To posts on here with photos including battery replacement (easier to just change the module as the old one may have been corroded by a leaking battery). This indicates that the electronics believes the car is still locked suggesting that the car door open signal is not there. You can temporally turn off the movement detector by pressing the switch for that purpose at the bottom of the pillar between the doors on the driver's side. See Handbook.

The standard 1.6 model like mine does not need coding as it is not stop start. I thought the Greenline had stop start and hence needs the code supplied with the new battery to be entered. What type of battery was fitted initially? Do you have a sense wire fitted in the negative connector to the battery? If so you have energy recovery into the battery and need the type of battery used with stop start. If not then a standard battery can be used for which there is no code to be entered. Your stop start function may have been permanently switched off by a previous owner or is faulty but you will still need the original style battery to be used if you have the sense wire.

The glow plug light is a general warning and the reason for it is stored in memory. You need to have the fault code read using a reader or tow it to a garage for them to read the fault code and suggest the repair action. Were there any prior symptoms that could be signs of a failing battery?

Never had this problem so this is guesswork. As you mentioned it started when the windows dropped down, try resetting the end positions of the windows that enables the single press to open or close. The handbook will tell you how and usually you have to hold the open button until the window is right down and and don't let go for a further 5 seconds. Now do the same with the up button. The ticking could also be the anti-finger-trap trying to raise the window further, particular if it sometimes seems to be slow to raise due to dirt in the felt glass guides.

I changed my blades yesterday so it was fresh in my mind. I was quoting from handbook but I will try it your way later in case it is a difference just on the facelift models. Incidentally, your "quote" of my previous post is not my words or quote.