Gizmo

Mine was older version of this: https://www.racechip.co.uk/pedal-box/xlr.html 5 mins to fit, a bit fiddly to release the plug as it's at the top of the throttle pedal so you are doing it mainly by feel, but it's certainly not difficult.

Yes it was better than std, but it didn’t remove the lag completely so I fitted a throttle response box, which removed it completely

Hi, I haven't plugged into one this new, but I assume they are now all protected by SFD? If so then it's not something I can do until VCDS can obtain an SFD token.

No No issues at all with mine that had DCC (mine was also mapped to 220bhp) Do them together Finally you will need a HEX-V2 or HEX-NET not the older (and discontinued HEX+CAN) interface.

It’ll be perfect then. Can’t 100% remember what colour the wire was but it was the thickest wire of them all.

I have powered other VAG electric seats simply by adding power to the +ve terminal (plus earth) not sure a Superb seat would be my choice though, comfortable yes but not overly supportive side bolsters.

It’s down to when the planning permission was granted rather then when the houses were built.

It is, but it’s down to when the planning permission was granted and not when they were built (we are in the process of selling and moving to a new build). They don’t make it easy!

AIUI all new build homes and commercial properties HAVE to have EV chargers.

In reality (providing you have off road parking) charging an EV (especially overnight on a cheap tariff) is one of the major plus points in owning an EV.

Possibly but unlikely, how would you charge a car that had been SORN'd?

I have the Ctek battery sense (no longer available) on both of our cars and they are connected to the +ve terminal of the battery and the earthing point on the chassis (where the -ve terminal of the battery connects) and both work faultlessly. M8 will be ample, from memory they are something like M6.

Yes that's the DCC part I mentioned. Haven't been in a MK3 without DCC so can't comment on how much it improves the ride, but I was comparing the same setting on all wheel size and there really wasn't much between them, hence why I eventually went onto 19" winters as well.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/365644-s3-winter-wheel-brake-sizes/ I have used 17", 18" and 19" winter tyres on my 190 L&K (factory fit 19's) OK I also had DCC, but there was very little difference in comfort, sure the smaller diameter tyres are cheaper, but then they also look 'lost' in the arches IMO.

How old is your car? covers are not normally over the port.

Welcome I would say you are about where the mpg will be. My FWD 190 DSG would only do around 51 mpg, obviously the AWD will not be quite as economical.

You need to read your warranty T&C's, as it's a used car, so therefore not a factory warranty the battery may well not be covered under the 3rd party warranty as many aren't worth the paper they are written on.

Superskoda used to sell them, or your dealer

Should be one on each wing, but they are easy to damage whilst washing the car.

A 4 wheel laser alignment would pinpoint the issue, could be too much negative camber or the tracking.

Personally it’s what I would be doing first.

The aftermarket CTS are renowned for not being very good… worse than the OE ones, which TBH aren’t great.

Yes!

It certainly is in the hatch, no reason why the estate would be different.

It will certainly cut out the polishing stage. Not all 'ceramic' coatings are equal, so do your homework beforehand, likewise avoid those who come to you (a true ceramic needs to cure overnight... in the dry). I always: rinse snowfoam rinse 2BM wash rinse DI rinse blow dry. Sometimes if the car isn't very dirty (mainly dusty) I will just: rinse snow foam rinse DI rinse. The gets the car almost clean (to most people it would be perfectly clean enough)