Gizmo

Agreed loads of people won't. I prefer to keep the car as well balanced as possible, different brands will be made to different specifications. If you were towing then I can see the argument for uprating the rears only, but it will still compromise the ride when not towing.

There are certain things where I refuse to mix brands, tyres and suspension are the two main ones for me.

The reason I specifically missed out the word 'fog' was because you really should be aware of the poor visibility and not rely on the car to do it... but yes you are absolutely correct, auto lights cannot detect fog so it won't turn on the lights. Given a choice I too always have them enabled as well (not always possible unfortunately).

Not sure how that would work, by your reconning they would have less need for rear DRL's as they have less daylight hours. Brake lights are 4 times brighter than a sidelight / rear DRL, there really is NO problem in them making the brake lights harder to see during daylight hours, especially as the vast majority of cars on the roads have the 3rd brake light. Where they are useful is when you don't have auto lights and you go into a tunnel, or pass under trees, or it gets a little bit misty.

Basically it's just a visual check, Nissan also give you 12 months breakdown cover as well. Brakes will barely be bedded in after 3 years due to the regenerative braking, but as it's a consumable item they aren't covered in the normal service anyway (a 'service pack' may include them.) Brake fluid change is always (to my knowledge) a chargeable extra.

THIS ^^^ The lights come on and go off when the light sensor detects the light has dropped to the set limit, nothing is time based.

Click on this link for a map of local owners who have VCDS and send them a PM. @claudiu2s is probably the most local guy who really knows what he is doing.

Welcome It would help to say if you require someone to do this for you, if so then your location would help, or you have the necessary interface to do this yourself.

Only way is to change the lights, non dynamic indicators cannot be made to 'scroll'.

IIRC there is also a tick box in the infotainment system, make sure it's ticked otherwise it won't be shown.

Use the right hand wheel on the steering wheel to scroll through the different displays.

Either 3 phase at home or work (22 kWh) or DC. In reality not many people will need to add more than you can charge in the 4 - 5hrs cheap rate for private mileage, if you do then you will need to suck it up and charge the extra at your normal tariff rate. 28 kWh (4 hours X 7 kWh) will give you at least 85 miles even in winter (driven normally, more if you drive economically)

Yes the SportLine is 20mm (IIRC) lower

All but the 220/272/280 petrol come with a 205/55/16” if fitted from the factory at the time of ordering. Otherwise IIRC it’s an 18” skinny space saver.

It’s an alloy insert the goes into the rubber gearbox mount, this then stops the bang you can get when the engine rocks under wide open throttle (mine was mapped to 220 bhp / 505 NM)

I'm pretty sure they are activated in the maxidot. What trim level is the car?

Something certainly isn't right with that suspension then, IMO our Tour (so the heaviest ID.3 you can buy and on 19" wheels) rides FAR better than the Leaf and Yeti that it replaced, we also had a T-Cross and Tiguan courtesy car and my dad has a Karoq, they are all MUCH worse and very trashy on anything not totally smooth... that'll be 90% of our roads. The 'Max' is available with DCC as std, but as I haven't driven one of them I can't comment on what they ride like. The 'Lane Assist" is a bit of a joke compared to my Superb, it helps keep you in the lane, but only by wandering down the road like a drunkard, whereas in the Superb you really could let the car drive for you. I too would prefer more physical buttons, but most things can be adjusted through the steering wheel controls or the voice guidance. The brakes don't inspire confidence at first, but they certainly stop you when needed.

They don’t charge on their own, unless the car has been recoded.

Maybe this has changed then? I know RT used to recommend putting them into the service position for this reason.

You will need either VCDS or a similar diagnostic tool

I wouldn't be adjusting them in the daylight anyway. park close to a fence / garage door, mark the floor where the centre cap of the front wheels is. Turn on headlights and mark the fence or door with tape (including the 'kick up' turn the screw whilst watching the beam raise / lower or move sideways (wrong screw in this case) However with xenons this shouldn't really be done without putting the headlights into their 'service position' otherwise when the lights do their start up dance the lights can pop off the adjusters or worse still bottom out and break.

@devonutopia

Never had ANY issues with mine, apart from the Matrix LEDs we now have on both of our cars they were the best headlights I have had. 50% of my driving is done at night on poorly lit roads.

What trim level? "Superb 3 Executive" I assume you mean the SE L with bi xenons?

Unfortunately VCDS cannot get a radio code