sepulchrave

The VRS is a Mark 2 so it doesn't need 'special' mudflaps. I believe the car comes with a recirc valve as standard, so in order to dump the dump valve, you'll need another one unless it's been left fitted and bypassed.

There is a leak somewhere in the vacuum system, all the pipes need checking including the brake servo line. Unfortunately the computer won't tell them where to look but the origin of these faults is usually the MAP sensor measuring excessive air ingress when the throttle is shut.

Is the car using any oil? If so the sensors are most likely fouled and will need replacing anyway.

The tyres are completely the wrong size, change them first then worry about Speedo error.

Errr, using that site and inputting the two sizes I get 890 revs per mile versus 808, in anyone's money that's a 10% difference plus whatever error the Speedo already has of course...

I have 195/50/15 on mine, they handle well and are not too crashy, 195/65/15 is a Golf platform sized tyre, the Fabia is a Polo platform.

Chain.

No, it's a completely different engine. ABT did a kit for the AUB or BBZ with cams, induction and piggyback ECU and it made about 125 BHP but it certainly wasn't cheap! A pair of decent cams will cost about £500, induction kit £100 and a piggyback ECU about £500, then you have to get it mapped on a rolling road which will another £300. As the Americans would say; the juice ain't really worth the squeeze.

Coolant regulator must be a silly word for thermostat, there are some engines with electrically controlled coolant pumps that don't have thermostats, however these are usually very expensive high performance engines.

I didn't know the 1.2 estate would get to 60, let alone 62, my pet slug was quicker, and it talked!

Don't think so but any metal particles would sink to the bottom of the gearbox overnight and there they would stay since the oil is not pumped and everything relies on splash lubrication, therefore the MOST critical aspect of gearbox maintenance is fixing leaks and making sure the oil level is right, not much else matters frankly, which is why they're considered filled for life from the factory.

Dude, the post is FIVE years old, not a chance you'll get a reply. It's not rocket science, just fit the clip.

...or you could just unplug the EGR valve and see if it stops doing it.

Photo must've been taken in another country, I can see blue sky!

Do you need them?

No, it's oil-fouled, snake oil won't do anything because the car is burning oil.

...so that's P1553 then?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17911/P1503 The first code doesn't exist, typo? Your load signal wire from the alternator has broken.

The cat will clean up but you'll have to stop it burning oil first.

It won't do any harm but it's completely unnecessary, your call.

MOT man was trying to throw the OP a bone using earlier engine spec. The cat will be brutally oil-fouled, compression test essential.

Exactly, I've never seen or heard of a genuine ECU failure, it's a euphemism in the motor trade for " we don't know what's wrong with it, but if you'll pay this ridiculous bill we'll pay a guy we know who can fix it and we'll keep the change".

Nothing to worry about, the fan will not come on with the car switched off but it may continue to run until the radiator cools down enough for the thermoswitch to cut it. SNAP!

I have to say that unless the car has been struck by lightning the chances of an ECU or fuel system failure are vanishingly small. Which is why I flagged up the FAR more common RFID antenna fault.

You should check the wiring in the rubber bellows between the hatch and the body.