sepulchrave

Belief generally causes errors, it's a 6V engine and it'll give you trouble.

It wasn't broken but you fixed it anyway...

Cam position sensor probably, you should check the wiring.

It ain't that then, boost leak?

Nah, you don't know what this lot are like when they get really toxic, I knew you'd be ok with the oil capacity, I was just trying to reassure you really. As a practicing engineer I've gotten used to the theorycrafting from the armchair experts, it's like water off a ducks back these days.

So you've deleted all the vacuum lines except the line from the pump to the N75 and the line from the N75 to the turbo actuator? What about the brake servo vacuum line?

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere, have you plugged the line to the deleted EGR valve?

That's very interesting, I'd love to know where the black gunk is coming from, tandem pump oil leak?

I wouldn't touch the 1.2 6V engine, they're prone to burning the valves out and it's an expensive fix. Keep looking, try and find a 1.4 if you can.

A BBY should work just fine if you swap all the sensors and ancillaries over.

Excellent, I should hope not.

I'd expect a brand new turbo outright for that price, you shouldn't have driven it with the low oil pressure light on though, that's a real rookie mistake.

All you've done is pumped the engine oil straight into the exhaust manifold via the snapped turbo shaft, since the oil warning light didn't come on then the engine should be fine.

The trouble is modern diesels don't need more air, they're already running too lean, hence all the NOx reduction gear, they need more fuel and the only way to do that is with a remap. Tuning diesels is almost the opposite of tuning petrols in terms of strategy, that's why most of the standard petrol tweaks don't work. So fitting a free-flow exhaust might improve turbo spool slightly, hence fractionally more boost, but there won't be any more fuel to go with that extra air so the engine will actually lose power slightly whereas on a petrol a wide band lambda probe will detect the extra oxygen and the ECU will increase fuelling to suit. Passive aggressive indeed.

The groans have it, go ahead and stick a load of pointless crap all over your economy diesel hatchback, spend as much as you like, it's your money. Don't ask for good advice though if it's validation and herd status you're really after.

What's the point, it won't DO anything, you might as well spend the money on beer, at least you'll enjoy it.

Ok, dash reading for correct engine temperature is meaningless, change the ECT, it's cheap and easy to do. YOUR CAR DOES NOT HAVE A MAF!!!!111ONE MAP sensor will be fine. All the other guff is a all waste of time, the car is overfuelling, it can only be the ECT or the pre-cat Lambda probe causing it realistically. Disconnect the ECT completely and see if it runs any better.

They won't fit properly, the bodyshells are different shapes and sizes, as you've discovered the floorpans are the same but the rest of the body is completely different.

Don't waste your money, those parts won't do anything on a turbodiesel which is why nobody makes anything for it. A good remap and a turbo upgrade is the key to more power on your engine.

Why are you buying wishbones and droplinks? I thought you just needed to replace the console bushes. The droplinks will be junk and your existing wishbones are fine and those bushes aren't PSB so in a word 'NO' that kit isn't any good.

It's extremely difficult to accurately test lead acid batteries, but low voltage when fully charged is a certain sign of impending doom, a good battery will read 12.7V, a 50% life expired battery about 12.4V and 12.2V is in the realms a single chilly morning and your car wont start, not worth the inconvenience for the sake of a hundred quid.

It's simply not necessary.

All I did was pass the hacksaw blade through a void in the bush, then I reconnected it to my hacksaw frame so I could cut through the rubber and into the nylon sleeve enough to weaken it, then I removed the blade, walloped a drift between the nylon sleeve and the console, whereupon the sleeve split and the bush could be easily knocked out. It's probably taken longer to write this than it took to actually do.

I think it's got more empty space than your post but not much more, how small are you?

Fuel filter cap bolts will be much less, so much less that your torque wrench probably won't go that low.