mac11irl

you may have to hit the panel several times. fuel flap should be locked .. so, more evidence of the wiring failure. i dont know if theres a key barrel hidden in the passenger door

okay, definitely pointing towards wiring issue in the doordoor loom or a dead control module then. does the boot have a lock barrel on the estate? i cant remember

im also thinking you may have wiring loom issues in the door panel or the pipe between the the door and the car body. frayed/broken wire in there can cause a short or stop the door module communicating with the rest of the car

okay, that definitely says its not communicating with the car. so... do you drive the car much? is it possible the battery in your car has died? that the short move earlier was enough to flatten it. might explain the lack of comms. but.. given the key also wont unlock it, says to me the deadlock has stuck. try the following - key in the lock and turn it to unlock. while turning it, use the palm of your hand, or side of fist, to hit the door panel between the grab handle and the door edge. thats where the lock mechanism is located. could get lucky and loosen it enough to release manually.

are the indicator lights flashing on the car working though, when you press the fob buttons

Are you completely locked out? have you tried the boot? are they lights flashing when you hit the fob buttons? that sounds like a really unlucky case of the bcm/ecu losing its connection to the key. but if even manually turning wont do anything thats very odd

you might also post what the solution was in case anyone else pops up with the same issue in the future. you investigation and fix could be the help soneone else needs 👍

Hi and welcome @superbly4x4 i have no answer fir this, but if you check the octavia iv sub forum and ask there you will get better engagement and more chance of a response from others wh .ay have had the same issue 👍

shame.. i drove a Crossland a couple of months ago very very briefly for my neighbour. my god it was horrible in conceivable way

my new work van has it too, and because its a 2024 build its programmed to come on EVERY time you turn the key.. stop for fuel? its all back on... jump out for 30seconds to unlock a gate and take the keys with you out of habit... all back on again. i turn it off everytime because a) the speed warning bings at you for 1kph over the detected speed limit even though the gps speed shows the indicated speed is higher than actual.. b) the evasive steering twice sent me hard right to "avoid collisions" with cars turning left from filter lanes towards oncoming lorries.. c) the autobraking kicked in one damp night because i was approaching the bottom of a hill.. on a motorway... d) the lane departure tries to either push you into the ditch or onto the wrong side of the road on narrow zroads depending on where it picks up a faded centre line or the ditch.. i hate it all...

I ended up here because literally 10mins after i picked up my mk1 i was parked in the tesco car park 200yds up the road from the dealer, moving my stuff into the octy from my dads Tucson id been driving as a stop gap for a couple of weeks after the cordoba died, when a guy pulled in beside me in another black mk1. he complimented me on how clean it was and the alloys (15" 5 spoke wolfrace ones, they were lovely tbf) that were on it. i laughed and said it should be clean, id only bought it 15mins ago. he told me about briskoda and i signed up that night... thanks Dave! Actually... i must check something.. edit i checked. its now the 12th of Jan, I joined on the 21st of Jan. 9 days to my 13yr Anniversary 🤯

the above little exchange is why i love this forum and the mk2 vrs seats will look lovely. does the lumbar support still work in your current seats? glad the evrymod-ectomy has made such an instant difference. on the boost drop, is it wheel speed dependent, or engine speed dependent? is it only doing it in 5th, or will it do it in other gears too at the same rpm? if you can rev it on in lower gears, id sacrifice fuel economy for a longer trip and dont go past 3rd gear but at high speed. the good old italian tuning run could really help clear it out after the evrymod likely coked it all up.

sorry, i completely forgot about this one... from what you describe, it sounds very similar to when mine had a failed injector. keeping the revs up it sounded and felt fine but low down it was awful.

I got a carista last yr and its very good for clearing codes and doing extra settings and stuff. i also have a elm 327 and torque pro. the dongle seemed to have died thus getting the carista. Torque is much better for live logging data as carista only seems to do snap shots, where the torque pro app will log continuously for what ever parameter you choose and can be saved as a text file iirc. much better for diagosing a problem and isolating when something is happening.

as above, get the smoke maker out of it first. and then see how it runs. I imagine it will still be a bit **** though, as all that excess black stuff will have clogged the vanes. agri-spec has to be one of the worst trends that came into the car scene 🙄 and yeah, there is a guide on the Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner turbo cleaning technique, it does work 😂

it looks clean and straight in the photo, so well done on finding in pretty decent shape, not many left now! a 110 1.9, is it a PD or the previous non- PD? both are rock solid, bullet proof engines so a good service and the belt for peace of mind youll be laughing. i dont know what the evrymod is meant to do, but your symptoms for the dash sound like a bad earth, or the old problem with dry solder joints on the board. could be worth a reflow if your able, theres a few guide in the mk1 octy section on doing it. dumping the boost could be a mumber of things, split pipe, actuator or vanes sticking depending on which turbo is on it.

Quick website comparison.. mk3 vs 2024 octys 2020 model leon (newest available) vs 2024 octy As i thought, its mostly the roofline sweep

Cant comment on the space aspect, but i can say having owned and driven multiple seats and skodas, the interior plastics of seats feel lighter and more fragile than Skodas. both cars have the same chassis, so any space difference isnt going to much, likely affected mostly by the roof line - seat tends to have a more sloped backed end than the skoda.

plus one, I was there before i was here, 2009 to 2012 while i had a Cordoba. good information and reasonably active

Part 2, Finally got it typed up and ready... Level 2 Advancing from Level 1, you have a repeat episode on the same journey of the MAF turning on a glow plug warning. However, you also get an EML light that wont turn off with the ignition Cycle. When scan the ecu, there will be a stored MAF fault. Clearing the code, it wont come back unless you again have a double MAF fault in same journey. I do not recall seeing any EGR Fault Codes during the level 2 period. Level 3 Things are getting worse.. the Valve has stuck open and isn’t resetting properly. What do you experience? Cold starting will be normal, but when driving away any revving over 2500rpm or a full throttle under 2500 will induce a limp mode, EML and flashing glow plug. Cycling the ignition will clear the glow plug and the limp mode, unless you go over 2500 rpm again. This will continue until oil temp indicator on the dash (assuming a maxidot display) shows over 70c. Once the engine is warmed up to this temp, you can rev / throttle as normal. Long driving symptoms revert to level 2. Fault codes will show up as – MAF, EGR Sensor A & EGR Sensor B Additional observations on my experience at Level 3 – Air Temperature affect. When Cold starting, the ambient air temp seems to have an effect on the symptoms. During warmer weather, when the air temp (maxidot) shows between 14.5 – 20 degrees, limp mode risk from revving over 2500 before reaching the oil temp vanishes, but full throttle will induce it. Above 20deg the chance of a limp mode seems to increase again, I don’t know why. Level 4 Cold start will lead to an immediate flashing glow plug and driving in limp mode. Cycling the ignition will do nothing until the engine oil is up to 70deg or higher, after which you once again are back to Level 2. Fault codes will show up as – MAF, EGR Sensor A & EGR Sensor B Level 5 If you get here, its as bad as you can really expect short of the car being completely undrivable. As per Level 4, Cold starting issues go away once over 70 deg oil temp. However, even after clearing codes and continuing on you are not 100% in the clear. Revving over 2500 rpm is okay, however, any full throttle acceleration, regardless of engine speed / gear selection, carries about a 20% risk of popping another limp mode. Solutions – Obviously a new EGR valve, and the earlier in the symptoms the better, however, having looked into this, due to the EGR system’s position on the CAYC, off down the back of the engine, replacement is time consuming due to how much stuff needs to come off to get access to it from underneath on a ram, thus its gets expensive. Saw quotes of 1200 to 1600 quid on similar engine Golfs etc. Blank off and code out your EGR. This may cause an increase in the number dpf regens the car requires, likely has a net negative effect on total emissions etc. Other Notes – Please be aware that while I did let things get bad on mine prior to getting it resolved via option B above, there was a simple reason for this – I don’t drive the car most days currently as I have a work van I now use for all my work stuff. So, poor donkey 2 is sitting on the driveway for the vast majority of the week, other than school run once a week, and the shopping collection once a week. All low speed, short journeys that diesels hate. One or 2 long drives per month that I take it on, mostly to try and keep the dpf sorted and stretch its legs. I also saw an opportunity to learn as much as I could about how this system operates and how the failure develops over time so that icould do this write up on it to hopefully help others with similar issues. And finally, I’ve been thinking about changing it (don’t tell it though, it’ll get cross and get the hump), and so weighing the options on whether it was going to be worth my while putting the money into it for the trade in value. Ultimately, I got it blanked while it was getting a full service and mild TLC before its NCT (MOT, which passed with only an advisory for tyre tread under 3mm), as I didn’t want to risk it failing by throwing any of the faults during the test, and saw the blanking out as worth the cost for when I do change it, hopefully this year for a petrol… something… hopefully a bit interesting, yet to be decided on. I hope the above does prove useful for somebody, somewhere, banging their head off the steering wheel trying to figure out why it seems random, especially if you go down the early doors option and needlessly change the MAF sensor , until you really look at everything that happening together. The air temp influence in particular I found very interesting.

Disclaimer - I can only tie the following to my own experience over the last 6-12months with my CAYC engine coded 1.6 common rail diesel Mk2 Octavia. Also, I am not a mechanic, nor overly handy with a spanner. I do however have "The Nack" as Dilbert's paediatrian once put it, so tend to be able to see correlation and decide if causation is linked or not so... here goes! How to tell early on and as symptoms persist whether your EGR is starting to fail and what will happen as it gets worse, broken down into increasing levels of severity, with a quick description of how the egr system works (broad strokes) What does the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system do? Nutshell version - it pumps a certain amount of exhaust gases back into the cylinders via the air intake to cool the burn and help reduce overall emissions. Ladybird book version - (my understanding) On cold start and running the EGR inlet valve is closed. When the engine is up to normal running temp and the engine is running at less than full throttle, the valve is opened. at this time a certain amount of the Exhaust gas is diverted into the EGR cooler which on the CAYC is buried down the back of the engine, very inaccessible and the labour time to access is why replacing the system is so expensive. Out of the cooler, the gas is mixed back into the air flow around the inlet manifold, and the volume of gas sent is metered to match the Fuel:Air mix the ECU is expecting. The exhaust gas reduces the volume of combustible mix i. the cylinder which thus results in a slower burn that is meant to be a lower temp and helps burn off more of the exhaust emissions. When you lift off the accelerator and coast in gear or go full throttle, the egr valve is closed - Coasting cuts the fuel flow to the engine, thus no emissions so no gases need to be sent back for reburning. When on full throttle, the ECU doesnt care about emissions, and wants to deliver max power and torque available, so wants the "cleanest" fastest burn, so it doeant want exhaust gases reducing that efficiency. The above is all great when things are working properly. But, EGRs are notoriously bad at doing their job properly so, below is how detect when yours has had enough. Level 1 - Early signs While driving your car along at a consistent speed, such as NSL on a motorway, you have to slow down considerably, or stop very briefly, to pay a toll or similar situation. on accelerating back up to NSL you see the glow plug flashing at you. Cycling the ignition makes this go away and your journey continues uneventful, other than the nagging feeeling in your head. If you have a fault scanner, there will likely be no stored fault, unless you scan while the GP light is flashing. if you do find a code it will relate to the Mass Air Flow Readings. This is most likely a false error caused by the following - When you coast, the egr should close, but if yours is sticking open, it wont and so after Five Seconds (based on my monitoring over time tracking this) the ecu is going to have unexpected gases flowing into the chamber. When you put your foot down again, the ECU will still be finding unexpected "air volume" in the system as EGR should be closed on full throttle too and so will assume bad readings from the MAF and set the glow plug light flashing. There will be no limp mode nor will there be any loss or change in power delivery. Cycling the engine will reset that fault code and it wont come back unless you repeat the above circumstances. If you can't safely cycle the ignition, its absolutely fine, just an annoying little light on the dash. Level 1 is very intermittent, but will over time (1000s of miles) become more frequent. ignition cycling to clear the code seems to also kick it back to normal operation. NB - an initial check of your brake lights should be done, as a flashing glow plug light on some cars is also an alert that there is a problem with brake light illumination, probably the brake pedal switch. We will assume the brake lights are all working... I'll add Level 2 shortly, as ive tyoed all of this on my phone, while drinking brandy and eating crisps on a Sunday night...

Same as any car your thinking about buying... Make sure all the electrical systems work properly, open and close the windows fully a few times. check for rust or bubbling paint that could have rust underneath. give it a really good test drive, on as varied road conditions as you can, and dont be afraid to give it a of full throttle to make sure it doesnt throw any errora or limp mode.

Osram Nightbreakers are okay as an upgrade, but the last couple of sets ive bought have barely lasted the 12month warranty. i went back normal h7s in my octy after the last failure, and to be honest going back to standard, there really isnt much difference other than the light is "bluer" on the Osrams, despite the claims. halogen bulbs are just a bit crap, but led replacements are pain for other drivers. given its a 1.6tdi, Im assuming its a cayc engine code. keep an eye out for a flashing glow plug light after about 5 seconds of foot off in gear coasting following a decent run at a sustained speed. if you get that, with no limp mode and can scan codes that says its a maf error, its not. its level 1 of the egr starting to fail and stick open. I really need to do up that diagosis guide following my recent trials with mine (now blanked and coded out)

are they standard halogen H7s?

yeah, except, i couldnt be arsed having an argument with them, as the missus was already fairly well sick of the travelling, baggage collection, 2 spuds being tired and fed up too.