Breezy_Pete

Try to get (and post) a nice, sharply-focussed photo of the strip fuses in the holder above the battery. Sometimes a near-invisible hairline crack in the power steering one can give such symptoms.

Yeah, it's quite nasty on the facelift cars with rivetted carriers. Sounds like a replacement of, or repair to the driver's side module is needed.

Front brake PR code is 1ZE, which is 288 x 25mm discs.

That's not going to help with fronts.

Front, rear or both? 1KS is the PR code for the rears, I think. PR codes for front brakes are always absent from the sticker in my experience. Include the VIN and I can look up for you though.

The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage required to leap it, which in turn would require more energy from coilpack. Makes intuitive sense to me.

I don't know. Scanning for fault codes really is your best strategy. When were the spark plugs last inspected or replaced?

Hose won't be relevant. Probably a failed coilpack, but scan to see what the fault lights are indicating.

Phone them (or another motor factor) with the vehicle VIN ready to quote. The info they can find with VIN is better than the website search by reg number.

With DPF. Parts catalogue says it uses 1K0254706MX "exhaust pipe with catalyst and particlulate filter"

I doubt the A/C or window problems have anything to do with the BCM.

I can't make out much, but I'll trust that you can see enough to tell that the mechanism/regulator is bust. Probably worth replacing that ahead of worrying about the motor.

It's common to re-seal the sheet metal assembly carrier to the door, as a fix for leaks. That alone wouldn't affect window operation. Not sure what you mean by the cable. Photo?

Leave them a year.

Yes. If you unscrew the motor, then take the beige cog off it, you could refit that and turn the mechaism by hand - possibly with help from a partly open pair of pliers - to see if the glass moves up and down evenly/straight. If one part (towards front or towards rear of glass sheet) can be moved up and down much more freely than the other when pinched between fingers, there may be a broken plastic attachment in the mechanism, also.

Not sure about that one to be honest. I guess if it failed when the window wasn't completely closed it would make sense. Presumably you hear no clicking or whirring noises when trying to open driver's side window?

In that case your driver's side motor is 6Y2959802.

Is it a mk1 or mk2? A 57-plate would normally be a mk2 I think. See what the 7th and 8th characters in the VIN are. 6Y = mk1, 5J = mk2.

It's most likely the driver's side motor module failed. Message me about my repair service if you like.🙂

@Dennise, try this: Starting with locked car, put key in driver's door lock, turn to unlock and hold it fully turned for a few more seconds. Do the windows start to go down?

Yes, a 2013 TRW is probably OK; what part number(s) does it have on it? The one in your photo appears to be unbranded/aftermarket. Have you checked that the thick red wire from the 50 Amp fuse is undamaged between fuse and that 2-way connector?

Part numbers for all 2005 Fabia brake-related stuff can be found here, help yourself Tim: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

At a guess, your car has its steering angle sensor in the cabin, near the top of the steering column, rather than low down, in the engine bay. That connector is used to connect the engine bay version. Are the cable entries fully blocked off with rubber plugs?

Fingers crossed.