Breezy_Pete

I don't know exactly what this fault code represents in terms of function. Just guessing that high/full speed may be affected as this would be least obvious in normal use. How did you test full and low speed, and when?

The connector I mentioned has only 10 positions for wires, and is green. I can't remember what location the circuits suggested, but I think close to the ECU. Because there are only 10 positions, and the wires are quite bright colours, I think it will be easy to see which are the correct ones. My understanding is that there will be one wire of each colour going from ECU to green connector and then a continuation of each from the mating half of the green connector onward to the fan control module. I will try to find additional info and images tomorrow. Since the fault code refers to "fan control 2" I think it will relate to full speed, not low speed, so probably very rarely, if ever, needed.

The scuttle connector is a green 10-way. Pin 6 carries a yellow wire from ECU pin 77 to fan control module pin 11 (of 14-way). I think this one is probably low speed command. Pin 7 carries a yellow/red wire originating at ECU pin 79 and going to fan control module pin 7. This is the one I suspect may have a problem. If it were mine I would check that yellow/red visually and then electrically for short and open circuit.

I had a look at wiring diagrams, and on AVU with the basic A/C there are two command wires from engine ECU to fan control module. There's a connector in the scuttle area where these pass through. I suspect one of these wires, or its connections (which commands full speed fan activity) may have a problem. Details with wire colours and pin numbers at each point to follow when I get a chance.

Ignore. You'll hear it if any leaks get bad enough.

No worries. It's tempting to look at the letter suffixes of each of the 2Q0 parts and conclude that they're all supersessions of one another, but looking at each in detail, no such relationship is shown. Tend to agree with John though, doesn't seem super-critical for the odd wheel change.

Five (!) different part numbers appear when I look up, including some date ranges; three of them greyed out as inappropriate for your vehicle. The one that's left is an odd-looking part number starting 658, and is currently £52 retail inc VAT at Skoda dealer parts counter.

No idea, I guess it may vary with engine size (weight) or something. If you message me your VIN I could see if that can filter out the incorrect one on the parts site I use.

No problem. By navigating up and down the menu tree on that site you could look up any other parts in future.

No, that will be different pipe diameters throughout. Slight leaks, and corrosion on outer skin of back box are simply not worth attention. Most parts that you might replace with will probably fail sooner than what you have.

"I let it go in idle for 10 min" It is not clear what you mean here. Did you leave the car idling (running)? And then checked the oil level while still running. Or you let it sit running/idling for 10 minutes, then switched off then checked? Whenever you check, the engine must be off. Also - very important - when you first pull the dipstick out you must ignore the level shown. Wipe it clean then re-insert to get a true reading.

There are some petrol engines without throttle bodies actually. I remember being very doubtful when a young pal of mine told me he'd failed to find one in a petrol BMW he'd been looking at, several years back. Google confirms:

What problem are you trying to solve? Can you read what fault code or codes are causing the glow plug light?

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KAM/584/0/012/12000

There's no way you'll get to the sump via oil fill hole; is dipstick tube wide enough for your extractor? Otherwise just loosen but don't remove sump plug and let some drip out into a tray.

Yes, cam sensor. Looks like an aftermarket/pattern part. What problem are you trying to solve?

It is similar in appearance and function to the throttle body on a petrol engine, but as above it's not for rev control. It has two main uses as I understand it, anti-shudder at shutdown, and to create variable pressure levels in the intake manifold in order to allow more control over flow rates of the exhaust gas recirculation system.

Quite likely that's it, yes, but don't know from personal experience on a mk2 Fabia. Connectors do tend to have pins numbered, but there's a decent chance it's the only black wire. As long as the connector has a black wire, it's probably an ignition switched feed.* Edit * No, actually there's a thicker black wire going to the rear screen heater on pin 1, white in the mating part of the connector pair. Don't use that one.

No, brake lights are only given 12V when pedal is pushed. Reasoning for the connection is explained in one of Graham's posts above. To briefly enable front sensors.

You'll find this black wire in position 3 of a 10-way connector pair on the left side of the luggage compartment. Other wires cause the wiper and rear washer to activate in response to stalk inputs. Test it with and without ignition switched on. 🙂

Yes, a for sale post was there a couple of days back.

Not true.

Get yourself set up with VCDS Lite (free download from ross-tech.com) and a suitable cheap KKL lead. Then you'll be able to read any and all fault codes that are causing the warning lights. Does the battery light illuminate when ignition is switched on?

2001 Fabia as per your profile? Possibly the switch pack in driver's door plus another fault like a broken wire affecting passenger side motor. Checked fuse for passenger side?

Rear wiper power feed tends to be ignition switched 12V.