Breezy_Pete

Not really relevant to CO2 emissions and climate change, 'just' particulates and NOx respectively, the human/other animal killers.

It is the oil filter housing, but you can relax on the cambelt issue, your engine has a chain instead, inside the big alloy casing just behind the filter. It may be worth checking and replacing the o-ring that seals the cap part, shown as item 15 here LLLParts. Usually supplied with the filter element, item 14, so if a service is anywhere near due, it may be pragmatic to change filter and oil while at it. The marking on the cap is odd, and ambiguous, appearing to say 255Nm or 25.5Nm. The former is unachievable but may well cause problems if it's attempted, the latter is a sensible torque magnitude but weirdly precise. In practice, as the o-ring is acting as a piston seal rather than a face seal, the torque is largely irrelevant, and hand tight plus a 'nip-up' will be fine. Edit, be sure to protect the alternator from further spillage with absorbent rags if you do undo the cap!

A press is a good way to destroy this (Gen2) type of bearing/hub combination during fitment. That's why these fitting kits exist, so that you can push on the outer, rather than the inner which you would be if the press were applied to the hub part. Fortunately your Yeti uses bolt-in front bearing assemblies, so no such faffing about is required, these being the original fitment and current, supersession part numbers: GENUINE VW AUDI SEAT SKODA FRONT WHEEL BEARING 3 STUD 1K0498621 5K0498621A -NEW | eBay

Now say a prayer to your preferred deity that it isn't/wasn't the other side gone again! Been there, done that on a Mk2 Golf

Sure, will send you a Private Message shortly.

That valve (item 4 in the image) is the turbo vane control actuator, I think. Any vac hose that is (undeliberately) open to the air like the broken off one can potentially affect the available vacuum for controlling other things.

Here's the diagram for BSW engine code:

The trick to removing vac pipes is to push them, rather than pull them. So get a flat screwdriver in between the end and the flat plastic face and twist to push the end away. Go at it from a few angles and it should start to move.

Shouldn't need tracking. Not at all surprised that breaker bar was needed. Would be very surprised if it wasn't really.

It should all come out as one I think, but yes, clean up should be very thorough, and grease will help minimise the struggle to wind the new one in. Use loads of grease on the threads of the big bolt of the removal tool set too.

Not essential unless worn to less than min thickness, but probably worth doing them, parts cost is usually pretty low.

Yes, I believe so. Hope so, if I have the same tool and stubborn rusted-in sensor and have to do a bearing.

Not one of the semi-circle parts, the part that pulls in from behind the bearing to push it out. The smaller of the two black bits in the middle of the box.

Oh, well done! I think some of the bearing removal tools have a flat on them to allow it to stay in place, does yours?

Is there a part number on it? Don't see it listed as available separately to the rest of the drawer, but someone may have listed one on ebay? Otherwise a scrapyard is probably the best bet.

It's OK to leave it in gear as long as you pick a gear that will result in the engine rotating in its normal direction if the car moves downhill. So forward gear if facing nose-down, reverse gear if pointing uphill. Engine compression with movement will stop it just as well. Probably better to park with front wheels angled such that the kerb will stop it instead though. And yes, make the handbrake work properly. Bet that was a scary bill?

A longish layoff also increases the risk of chain slip, as oil can drain out of the tensioner.

It's a fairly quick and easy job to inspect the valves with a borescope through the spark-plug holes. That would allow more accurate quotes for chain replacement versus chain replacement plus headwork to be made. Is it the 60bhp or 70bhp version of the 1.2 HTP? Valve damage is almost inevitable if the latter has a chain slip, I think. Either way it will be a lot of labour hours, so nastily expensive. Do you park on a slope regularly, by any chance? If so do you leave it in a gear that would cause the engine to rotate backwards if the handbrake allowed some movement?

Probably didn't have anything as big as the 24mm required in metric, I'll guess.

Not sure when I last saw a car with an actual radiator cap.

Google is right.

2. That's too high a voltage for an AGM/EFB battery that's fully charged. That's why everything had to change for these types.

I didn't even notice that aspect, but yes, they are. If the last 8 digits of your VIN are 43985212 or a higher number you'll find rivets instead of DIY-friendly M6 screws.

A youtube video link popped up in my suggestions this morning, and I think it shows a couple of things worth highlighting. Here's the link: https://youtu.be/lJv7MSWNUUY I took a screenshot at one point, as it's the clearest illustration of the primary leak path that I've ever seen. Unfortunately, although he seals all the way around the perimeter, he leaves in place the black plastic lock bracket which was the cause of the problem. Here's the screenshot showing super-clearly the water witness marks running down from where that plastic bracket is attached: At about 8 mins he refits the panel with this bracket still uselessly in place, ready to resume channeling water onto the carrier. It broke off the lock, you may as well completely remove it and block the three plastic rivet holes with waterproof tape! That way the water dripping down there will drop harmlessly straight to the drain holes at the bottom of the door, instead of being directed onto the panel. The only purpose of that bracket is so you can remove or install the door lock with the carrier panel if you need/want to. Once it's broken off the lock it's 100% liability, no point in having it there.

Looking at this image from the owners manual. I think maybe an oil pressure warning? Disconnect and examine the oil pressure switch connector (next to the EGR valve) for oiliness and the wire coming from it for damage if there's no oil around.