Breezy_Pete

If both of the windows don't open when the key is held in the unlock position (with door previously shut and locked) I'd say you may well need a repair to the driver's side motor module. Pop round with door card off and try a known good one 🙂

Yes, very little charge in that, get a charger on it.

Look what it's reading in engine ECU measuring blocks when engine is at ambient and operating temperature.

Just a couple of ideas I had. Does your courtesy light come on when driver's door is opened?

Fuse 14 is associated with ECU relay for your engine.

If only 4 volts is getting to the pump it probably won't work, but there are two different relays that supply this voltage at different times, one when driver's door is first opened, the other when engine ECU tells it to. Seems unlikely both have a problem. Please check the two fuses I've mentioned.

Do you hear the fuel pump run as you open the driver's door, after unlocking the car from outside at least half an hour since last used?

Fuel pumps rarely give trouble.

See if fuse 52 is blown. Check fuse 14 too. Diagram attached: Mk1 Fabia Cabin Fuses.pdf

The fuse will stay powered. 👍

The radio may well have a permanent feed to it, but be switched off (and on) by CAN communication. Many electronic modules are like this.

@rdemirel, I guess you're referring to your Karoq, rather than a Citigo, in which case you'd be better off in the model-specific forum for that car.

This was from August 2011, there's another list from May 2013, but I expect there's a lot of overlap. Ones that are unused on any given car may not have a terminal in both sides of the fuse socket, and if so won't work.

I think it would be more accurate to say 'maximum charging voltage for...' Lower voltages will just be slower, lower current into the battery.

24, 26-30 inc, 32, 38, 39, 41, 44, 46, 48 and 49 are all listed as terminal 30 (permanent live).

Engine speed sensor is here, I think:

If it is an important buying criterion you probably wouldn't want to get involved in the palaver of a retrofit, but it is possible to convert 'vanilla' Central Locking to radio remote C/L with all OEM bits and pieces, as described here: https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/204921-guide-how-to-install-oem-remote-central-locking-in-a-polo-9n-with-original-parts/

The year in the VIN is the Model Year (MY) which isn't the same as calendar year, in a similar way to how magazines always seem to be a month ahead of reality. Model year - Wikipedia

Watch this

I think you'll find the 12V feed is the same volour on all four, and comes from a fuse rather than the ECU. The wire colour of the switched return from each injector will be the same at injector connector and engine ECU as it's a direct run. Will confirm in a few minutes, with ECU pin number.

There's a communication wire that goes (only) from front right to rear right door modules, which I think may be broken. It connects pin 10 of the 20-way connector at each module, via pin 19 of each 28-way door disconnect. Ideally you'd disconnect that 20-way at each of the right side door modules, and check continuity from pin 10 of one to pin 10 of the other.

You can test the solenoid part of the valve using the 'output tests' option while connected to engine ECU. Not sure on best strategy for problem solving beyond that, as I've not had personal experience of it. Lots of threads on here with that fault code over the years though, I believe.

There's supposed to be a tiny air filter on the end, and that's the only place it goes. Item 30 here https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2001-225/1/133-133035/

One of those boa strap wrenches normally used on oil filters might help if you can't get a hand fully round the cap.

Do you mean the door card, when you say door panel? The motor module doesn't need disconnecting to take that off, I don't think?