Breezy_Pete

As far as I recall, the flashing frequency on this car isn't actually changed by a bulb being busted, it does make the telltale LED in the cluster flash faster (I think?) and the ticking noise double-speed to alert you though. The indicators are all powered by one two-channel solid-state device on the PCB of the onboard supply control unit. All three bulbs on each side are wired in parallel with each other, so the overall parallel resistance of each three is what is monitored. I have to agree that is an utterly pointless mod though.

Agree with the above. I just looked up the relevant ETKA page via LLL parts and the (genuine, new) prices of the alternators had me gasping a bit! There's one or two part numbers that go into 4 figures. 😲 LLLParts

Ah, a petrol, I see that now I'm on a computer and can see the OP's signature. In which case there are a few more emission types tested at MOT. But still plenty of emissions-related equipment that can go faulty, as well as other engine faults that might put on that same light (which is the EML as far as MOT is concerned) without necessarily having major impact on the tailpipe emissions. Needs scanning to identify why the light is currently on.

Is this a 1.2 diesel? If so, the only emission tested by MOT is particulates/smoke. There are various other components of the tailpipe emissions which are controlled by design, and presence and good function of various parts like EGR systems. (But invisible literally and to the diesel MOT test) The fault light you're seeing indicates a fault with such a system. You may have heard of NOx emissions in the context of modern German diesels, that's one of the poisonous tailpipe gases that may be badly affected by such malfunctioning systems.

I'd expect that to be the main engine-to-chassis earth connection, so highly relevant. Localised to starter body area for minimum resistance when cranking.

Replace 2, keep the non-failed original onboard so you can swap it in for any other one that fails in future.

It's a typo. No more, no less. Find some joy in your lives guys.

Should be able to see it (or not if not fitted) via BCM measuring blocks I think, as it wires into that.

In the UK it tends to make a difference.

There's no decimal point though. Specsavers for who?

PAS stuff may be interchangeable, doubt the other bits are.

Door bellows wiring seems to be one of the most conspicuous(ly common) mk2 failure points. Definitely worth inspecting for any door electrics faults. There's some valve in the PCV system on the 1.2 TSI that's made of something too fragile, but pretty well regarded engine generally. 🙂 What year is the 16v?

Good plan. Personally I find a flat screwdriver that just fits widthways under the latch is best for releasing, then twisted gently through a small angle to lift the latch in a very controllable, limited way. Minimises danger of breaking it.

Are you following the suggestion about pushing the connector body firmly onto the switch before trying to release the latch, that's the 'secret'? Look up youtube videos on "VW connector removal" if you can't picture what I mean.

Uncover the wires by cutting back tape and conduit where my blue arrow points, that's where you need to find the wires that need reconnecting to the switch connector.

It's discussed a lot, but no one ever presents any evidence of what these changes to the 'charging profile' might be, or definition of what eventually might mean (i.e. it could be 5 drive cycles, it might be 50, or some other number, it's all guesswork).

Ah, were those pictures not your car? Yes, access may well be easier from below. It might be easiest for you to buy a replacement connector with wire tails pre-fitted, then join them into the loom.

Just here where my blue arrow points to:

The other end of the blue wire is in the black tubing surely?

Yeah, its normal for that lever to be movable, leave it alone. I very much doubt the reverse switch is any problem itself, the broken wire is obviously going to make it not work. Unwrap the black tape at the end of the plastic conduit tube, and then you will be able to split that tube apart and find the other end of the wire. Until the wire is fixed, there is no point in worrying about the switch. You can prove the fault is just the wiring if you strip back both ends of the broken section until you have clean copper, twist them together tightly and wrap some tape around. That should be enough to see it work, then you can think about making an improved, more weatherproof joint at your convenience.

That sounds like good advice, stay with same type for minimum complication.

Do you mean the connector, or the switch itself which is screwed into the gearbox? If you mean the connector, the method is described in my post on 21/07/19 above. The bit you've circled is a lever for locking the gear selector in a certain position used when resetting the cables.

I don't think anyone really has any clarity on the situation. Except perhaps amongst the makers of the management modules and their software writers. I don't know any of them unfortunately. I suspect the risks of problems with or damage to the new battery are wildly exaggerated, preying on peoples fears in order to extract revenue for dealerships. Certainly if there's no type change I can't see how anything is risked.

I'd love to see some measured/logged data (not hearsay) on whether EFB and AGM types really do get charged any differently by the alternator. I have doubts.

Have a look here, it sounds a bit like your V68 motor isn't managing to move its airflap. VCDS lite (freeware) is probably all you need to scan the HVAC module, but you will need to find a suitable FTDI cable. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/507163-heatingair-conditioner-issues/