Breezy_Pete

Try removing cabin fuse 35 and see if it still goes off.

It wasn't me asking that, scroll back up...😆

Nice when something goes smoothly without a hitch. Slightly makes up for all the times when a job takes three times longer than expected. 😁

Seems like it may be easier on LHD, without the pollen filter housing there. Please let us know @d3ntin.

If the 30A fuse in the battery fuse holder is bringing 12V on a red wire to pin 2 of the thermoswitch connector, and you are linking pins 1 and 2 of that connector with a thick wire, then both fans should start on their slow speed. The wiring is the only other thing involved. Direct power path highlighted by added red lines:

Judging by this page, I'd say it doesn't. Scroll down about 3/4 of the way and see that there are two diagrams titled 'exhaust gas recirculation' but only for diesel engines. LLLParts

Items 27/28/31 show the location of V68 LLLParts It doesn't move between LHD and RHD cars, there's just different stuff outside it in each case, pollen filter on RHD, possibly less stuff on LHD, please let us know. RHD unit (possibly from Polo, can't remember). So picture where the pollen/cabin filter housing would be on a mirror-image of your car, and look just a little closer to the centreline than that.

Liking your style there. 👍

The two front door control modules have CAN bus communication, but the rear door modules are only connected to their same-side front door partners by LIN bus, not to the CAN system. So if a front door controller falls over due to e.g. that big fat red wire breaking, the same-side rear door unit won't be controllable from the front because it won't be getting instructions over the LIN wire.

Another possibility is a cracked solder joint on the connector from the instrument cluster circuit board. Try giving the whole area a bit of a shake by hitting with your palm on top of the dashboard, see if the reading on the fuel gauge changes.

I haven't had to do a V68 but the other one v154 isn't horrible to do. It nearly is though, and really not worth doing in my opinion unless stuck recirculating or you drive past a pig farm regularly. Pretty sure there's a how-to for v68 change on 9N polo somewhere online, and it must be largely the same. Located somewhere to the right of the glovebox on RHD. Access and visibility are the issues, I think.

Check whether or not your outside temperature readout is giving a sensible number, that and the fuel gauge sender share a voltage feed.

Any Skoda dealership parts department.

I think it might be something much less worrying, yes. Really needs further code-reading to see what's still coming up. Does it feel like it's running on only 2 cylinders, or just badly but evenly? I'd minimise driving of it as much as possible. Best to avoid telling garages what you think may be wrong, as they'll tend to just fix/replace that thing even if they don't for one second think that's really the problem. See if anyone on here is close to you for possible code-reading help:

Thank you toot for attempting to bring the topic back from wherever the hell it was. If anyone wishes to discuss what I wrote further please send me a PM, if you can. 🙂

Move on kids, I have. 😁

Only 18 teeth on the crank sprocket though, so 20 degrees of mistiming with a jump. I think that would be valve soup, wouldn't it?

That's good news indeed. Harder to judge from the photos than up close I expect, but first impression of the both-together photo is that they are correctly in step. It's possible that the crank pulley is one tooth out relative to both, but I think that would cause such a big mis-correlation that the engine wouldn't run. Do you have any warning lights on currently? .

The slots should be parallel to one another whatever angle the engine is at. No need to turn it to see.

OK, that's the twin cam version. On the end of the engine nearest the battery there are a couple of removable covers that reveal some features on the end of the cams when opened. These features are slot-like and should be parallel to one another if all is well with the inter-cam chain timing. They are used to fit timing tools such as these into during chain work: If they aren't at parallel angles, some slip has occurred, and you should probably get the garage to inspect for valve damage. The covers to remove for inspection:

I'd guess that it came to be as a theory like this: One or two people fitted blanking plates at the top end of the pipe, because it's easier than bottom end or both. In doing so, they moved about the flexi section of the poor old pipe beyond its aged range of movement and without noticing cracked it. They then developed an exhaust leak as the crack widened. Try the vac pipe, see how it goes. I can't see blanking plate(s) having any advantage over a closed valve.

That would make no sense at all with this engine. It's a major operation to replace either, and only worth considering really if no other engine damage has occurred. However, this is all very premature because until more evidence is acquired, chain slip isn't diagnosed, it's just guessed.

Doesn't make any sense to me.

Never mind wyx, I'll pop you on my ignore list and trouble you no further. G'night and goodbye.

I see the point of car forums as helping others to fix their cars. I see using them to try to promote political or ideological stances as misuse, basically.